Malawi - the warm heart of Africa
In the past, Malawi tended to be neglected by travellers, little known, small and hidden in the Great East African Rift Valley, bordering Zambia, Tanzania and Mozambique. However, the country epitomises the saying, “Small is Beautiful”. Landlocked it may be but it has its own inland 'sea', the stunningly beautiful crystal-clear Lake Malawi. I visited in April this year and the country known as the "Warm Heart of Africa" didn't disappoint. My visit was brief, sticking to the capital Lilongwe, and two of the country’s main draws - Majete Wildlife Reserve, arguably the best place for a traditional safari in Malawi and for those in search of the ‘Big Five’ and Lake Malawi, the jewel in the crown of the country's tourist attractions. These are a few of the places I can recommend to stay…
Thawale Lodge (Majete Wildlife Reserve)
Malawi is not known for its wildlife, a safari here is more about memorable experiences and not just tick lists. However, there is plenty of game to see in beautiful surroundings but no convoys of vehicles characteristic of some African game parks. Long neglected, Majete Wildlife Reserve (located in southern Malawi's low lying Shire river-valley and one hour from Blantyre) has been the scene of an impressive programme of re-location. To date 3,200 animals from 16 different species have been reintroduced including the big five, leopard, elephant, buffalo, black rhino and lion. Other mammals reintroduced include eland, sable, waterbuck, nyala, hartebeest, impala, zebra, warthog, bush pig, giraffe and cheetah.
The re-birth of Majete is an inspiring story of resurgence and restoration, through the work of African Parks. Thawale Lodge, a completely unfenced camp lies at the gateway to Majete, a stay here is a safari in its own right! The word ‘thawale’ means a natural pan that fills with water after the rainy season and I was delighted that a herd of elephants were there to greet me on my arrival, quenching their thirst at the water hole, the matriarch playfully splashing her young family. It was a magical site and just metres away from the camp's main dining area. Six traditional tented chalets are available as well as two purpose-built air-conditioned chalets for families – each with two en-suite bedrooms, a lounge, and veranda. The chalets are spaced out to offer visitors privacy and an individual bush experience. A communal lapa (traditional lounge area) with a fully staffed kitchen is available in the centre of the camp with fresh food served in the beautiful, thatched restaurant. Thawale is fully electrified and chalets have sockets, phone network and fans. As those who have followed my blogs will know, swimming is high on my list of activities and a unique experience at Thawale is swimming in the natural “bio-pool”, surrounded by freshwater life – including some of the many species of cichlids. Adding to the lure is Thawale Lodge’s conservation model whereby 100% of its revenue goes directly back to the reserve and surrounding communities. For families looking for an excellent value, rustic bush experience Thawale is hard to beat. Thawale is one of only two lodges within the reserve. For a more luxurious, upmarket experience head for Robin Pope Safaris - Mkulumadzi Lodge
Robin Pope Safaris (Mkulumadzi Lodge, Majete Wildlife Reserve)
Mkulumadzi is on the banks of the Shire River, close to where it plunges into the Kapichira Falls. With eight stunning chalets, each with their own lounge and en-suite bathroom, they also have private viewing decks where you can relax, sit back and fall under the spell of the sights and sounds of the river. The lodge is far from the madding crowd with an infinity pool overlooking the Shire River, viewing deck and terrace, indoor and outdoor dining, a cosy bar and a lapa for evening campfires.
To get to the lodge you cross a suspension bridge over the Mkulumadzi River and arrive in a world where you can enjoy all the soft comforts of modern life in the isolation of a remote part of the African wilderness. For a change from the usual 4x4 safari experience, here you'll also be able to take a leisurely boating safari down the Shire River to spot elephant, buffalo, hippo and crocodile and later enjoy afternoon tea on the terrace shaded by the giant leadwood trees and wild mangos.
Mumbo Island (Lake Malawi)
Home to the world's first freshwater National Park and covering a third of the country, Lake Malawi, the Rift Valley's 'Lake of Stars' is also the third largest lake in Africa. Situated at the Southern end of Lake Malawi, lying 10 kms (a 45-minute boat ride) from Cape Mclear, Mumbo Island is completely unspoilt. The island has never been populated so it remains in a pristine natural state and is run completely off grid, it took a while for me to get used to no electricity or wifi. Think eco retreat but with some creature comforts thrown in. At just one square km, the island is very easy to get around, there’s a series of walking trails with accommodation on a sister island (not called Jumbo!) reached by a wooden jetty.
My home for the night was a wooden hut, perched high on a hill with a wooden balcony overlooking the lake, a hammock to complete the Robinson Crusoe experience and a full moon, suspended in the velvet darkness to light up the room. It was impossibly romantic, although my only company were a few playful lizards. Huts on the east side of the island also have balconies and the benefit of glorious sunrises, enjoyed with morning tea brought by the helpful staff. Although rustic with a compost toilet and bucket shower, the bed with mosquito net was super comfy and a solar lamp perfectly adequate to navigate my way around the room and to dinner on the main island. With wellness being the buzzword of the moment, Mumbo Island is the ideal place to enjoy sustainable tourism at its finest, to totally switch off and connect with nature. There's no better way to do this than on a morning's kayaking trip.
Propelling myself through Lake Malawi's crystal-clear waters, I admired the Seychelles like boulders bordering Mumbo Island, and moored my kayak up for a spot of snorkelling. There was not a soul in sight, apart from a few distant fishermen, for an off the beaten track, far removed from reality experience this was as good as it gets. The lake is a real-life aquarium (home to 1000 species of tropical fish, many unique to the lake) and snorkelling around the Island I spotted innumerable species of colourful cichlid fish, far from hiding away, these little fish would happily swim around me, coming up close for a better look. However, Mumbo Island might be a bit too simple for some (although this is its charm) so I'd also recommend a stay at Blue Zebra Island Lodge just across the lake from Mumbo Island.
Blue Zebra Island Lodge (Lake Malawi)
Blue Zebra Island Lodge is only 2 hours’ drive from Malawi's capital, Lilongwe, followed by a 20minute speed-boat ride. This is the perfect getaway for nature lovers looking for a combination of adventure and relaxation in a tranquil, private setting. Exclusively situated on Nankoma Island, a wild paradise on Lake Malawi, the lodge is unobtrusive and eco-friendly, operating on solar power. Offering a unique and sustainable travel experience, Blue Zebra is a conservation driven lodge working with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife in Malawi to protect three islands making up the Marelli group: Nankoma, Maleri, and Nakantenga.
These uninhabited islands are home to a vast array of fresh water fish, including some of the most rare and colourful in the world. They support diverse flora and fauna and are a bird watcher's paradise. Accommodation wise it's a unique set-up with 9 en-suite safari-style tented chalets, 1 forest-set Pitta Cottage, and 1 Superior Family Cottage overlooking the lake. Secluded executive chalets boast stunning views from private balconies. It's no surprise that the infinity pool also gets a big tick from yours truly. Birding is a highlight at Blue Zebra Island Lodge.
Although the island is only 68 hectares, it's possible explore a number of nature trails, a favourite being "the African Pitta Path". Deemed 'the Holy Grail of African Birding', this spectacular migratory bird nests on Nankoma from around November - April each year with birdwatchers traveling across the world to catch a glimpse of this prized bird. Operating off the grid, Blue Zebra has recently upgraded to a 3-phase elaborate solar system to ensure sustainable operation of the lodge, with the introduction of free Starlink Wifi to stay connected when needed (although they highly recommend immersing yourself in nature and disconnecting from the 'real world' for a few days). Lake Malawi was ‘discovered’ by the Scottish missionary and explorer David Livingstone just over 140 years ago and it now forms an integral part of Malawi's cultural heritage, a stay here is an absolute must do on any visit to the country.
Kumbali Country Lodge (Lilongwe)
The most convenient way to divide Malawi is to use the capital Lilongwe, in the heart of the central region as a dividing point between the north and the south. Rather than stay in a corporate business style chain hotel in the centre of town, I'd opt for a stay at Kumbali Country Lodge and secure some bragging rights as well - it's where Madonna stays on her visits to the country.
Kumbali embodies luxury, relaxation, and sustainability on a vast farm offering tastefully decorated rooms equipped with modern amenities. The lodge is conveniently located 10 minutes from the capital and 31 km from Kamuzu International Airport, so would make a good base for a first or last night. It was the unique combination of landscape, wildlife, and the lake which made Malawi for me so special and I hope one day to return to discover the less well-known North where I’ve no doubt some equally gorgeous infinity pools and memorable wildlife experiences await.
(This blog has been written by Petra Shepherd, Travel Matters’ Communication Officer. She visited Malawi in April 2024. Photo Credits by Petra Shepherd and ‘Blue Zebra Island Lodge - Roaming Media’)
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