Western Crete

I have always wanted to visit Western Crete as I had understood that this part of the island is mountainous and green – quite a contrast to the eastern side, and I love getting outside, walking in the hills and being immersed in the countryside. Crete is renowned for its clean beaches, wild natural beauty, thousands of years of culture and history as well as it’s tasty cooking. Twinned with travelling with Simpson Travel, a family owned travel business with decades of experience in the industry, I knew I would be in the safest of hands, along with their eye for detail for all discerning travellers who choose to take the road less travelled.   

Arriving into Chania International Airport (Ioannis Daskalogiannis), we drove a short distance to the GK Beach Hotel, our base for the next few nights. This small family run hotel is in a very desirable location, with no more than 100 metres from the property to dipping your feet into the sea. What bliss to wake up with the sound of the waves licking the shore and to have a cheeky dip in the sea before breakfast. The Batzelis family have been welcoming guests for over twenty years and their genuine desire for hospitality has not waned as we are greeted by warm smiles from their staff and Simpson Travel’s representatives. I can sincerely say you will be welcomed there as if you are a member of their family. The hotel offers 23 suites and a 2 bedroom penthouse – ideal for families in the school holidays. Along with a beach side restaurant and bar, if you are feeling very relaxed, you really don’t need to venture far. 

GK Beach hotel is within walking distance to the quant village of Kalyves, making it very convenient to dine out in the various local restaurants, shop for groceries and explore by foot. I’d recommend hiring a vehicle to be able to venture around the wider region as this part of the island is renowned for its numerous archaeological sites, blue flag beaches as well as the Venetian harbour town of Chania.

A highlight of my trip was a visit to the gorgeous Arosmari Village Hotel. It is a beautiful haven of stone cottages with pretty gardens set in the timeless village of Vamos. The Spring flowers with the aroma of jasmine, chamomile and fennel were heady. Guests have the pleasure of relaxing in nature around the pool or the breakfast area. With the White Mountains as a back drop, on the outskirts of Vamos village, it’s extremely peaceful yet only a short walk to the village tavernas. Among the gardens is a threshing circle, old stone ruins for the snails (apparently) as well as a small ampitheatre where a weekly concert is held. Musicians from the Vamos Orchestra performed for us during our visit. The group included a bouzouki player as well as violinist, pianists and singers. Such a treat for anyone who happens to be in the area. It’s a weekly event organised by the owner of the property who participates in the orchestra. 

As Crete’s most celebrated author, Nikos Kazantzakis, famous for Zorba the Greek, once wrote: “The mystery of Crete runs deep. Whoever sets foot on this island senses a mysterious force coursing warmly and beneficently through their veins, sensing their soul beginning to grow.” I am sure that I felt the force whilst watching the pianist’s fingers dance across the piano keys during the outdoor concert.  

A visit to Western Crete would be unfulfilled if you didn’t visit the ancient area of Aptera which for years secured the maritime activity over the Gulf of Souda. The site’s history begins from the Minoan Period (3500- 1070 BC), however there are traces dating back to the Geometric Period (1000- 685 BC), the Hellenistic Period (323- 67 BC) and the Roman Empire (67 BC - 324 AD).

Crete is renowned for its gastronomy. We enjoyed so many dishes including Greek salads, traditional Greek Kolokithokeftedes (courgette fritters) and tzatziki, meatballs, saganaki (fried cheese) stuffed vine leaves – the list goes on – all washed down with an obligatory glass of Raki, the national drink of all Cretans. I overheard someone saying that a glass of Raki a day will keep the doctor away.

The olive groves are a common sight on Crete and we were privileged to visit an olive oil factory where we learnt about the harvesting and production of the olives, as well as having the opportunity to taste the olive oil. For those interested in gastronomy, consider a visit to a cheese factory or a vineyard for wine tasting.

A visit to Crete in any season is a trip worth taking but I would say especially better to go when the air temperatures are not so intense, so Spring or Autumn are ideal. You will find beauty everywhere, perfect for a rural retreat, for walking and hiking off the beaten path, spectacular views, traditional villages and hidden beaches.

(Karen visited West Crete in May 2024, courtesy of our partners at Simpson Travel)