I booked my Walking and Trekking holiday to Northern Cyprus in January 2020, just a couple of months before we were all condemned to travel lockdown. I was offered cash-back for my trip, but I had heard so much about the beauty and fascination of the area that I postponed my trip for a year, and then - for yet another year, until May in 2022. It was definitely well worth the wait and lived up to all my expectations.

I had previously visited Southern Cyprus a couple of times, both in the Paphos region and up in the Troodos Mountains, but had never crossed to the north via the legendary Green Line. Many people, including those who had been in the British forces during the "troubles", had told me that the North of the island, now officially called the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, was much more attractive than the South.

My impression of the South, with its many archaeological sites and monuments to Aphrodite, is of a country with a sea such a deep blue that we in more northern climes can only dream of seeing it, a climate that offers a gentle breeze to alleviate the heat, and excellent and not-too-expensive food served by friendly waiters in tavernas on hillsides "with a view". There is, however, such a hangover from the British Empire days that sometimes there is very little feeling of "being abroad". The British ex-pat community live a happy life that is rather like being in Sussex in the sun. Which is wonderful, but sometimes we ask for a little more "exoticism" when we are on holiday. This is what I experienced once I crossed the Green Line.

Of course the history of the island is shared between both the Greek and Turkish "halves" of the island, and I am no expert in politics, but through conversations with people of both sides, it seems that the average person would very much like a reconciliation. In the meantime, to go north, we need to fly into Larnaka in the Greek sector, and travel via the border control on the Green Line in Nicosia for about an hour, in order to enter the Turkish sector. Only planes from Turkey itself are allowed to fly into the comparatively small airport in the north. Nicosia is the only capital city in the world to be divided into two and shared by both the North and South.

Once over the border you do feel like you are in a different country with a more middle eastern feel: narrow streets with pretty little houses, busy markets, more minarets, Turkish coffee (!) and wine, and, once you get outside the city, the landscape is definitely more dramatic and exciting: huge mountains dominating the skyline, covered in thousands of huge trees, and a fertile plain that stretches forever.

My holiday consisted of days mostly spent in clambering up and down the tree covered mountains, through dried up rivers covered in huge boulders and slippery gravel, proving the usefulness of hiking sticks or extremely long legs. A certain level of fitness was definitely necessary, but it was all manageable for older people (like myself).

Not just at the very top, but all the way up and along these forest paths, the views were spectacular. We also visited quite a few castles built high up in the peaks: Kyrenia Crusader Castle, Saint Hilarion Castle, Kantara Castle, Buffavento Castle, the history of which (dating back to Phoenicians, Romans , Byzantines, French etc.) was all related to our small group by our excellent guide, Gizer, accompanied by some interesting little tit-bits as to how a certain queen would drown her lovers before her husband the king got back from his crusades, how Richard the Lion Heart wasted no time in ferociously avenging the kidnapping of his fiancé, and (in the amazing Roman ruins of Salamis) how the men would all sit together in a huge half circle on the wooden toilet seats discussing the problems of the world, or who was likely to win the next major sporting event.

Interesting too are the many huge churches, originally for the Greek Orthodox Church, left in perfect condition, or actually being renovated, which is proof to the fact that, in this part of the world, Islam and Christianity can live peacefully side by side.

My favourite moment was visiting the beautiful 12th century abbey in Bellapais, made famous by Laurence Durrell in his book "Bitter Lemons". Then, walking up the steep road to his house, the renovation of which he describes so vividly, was a magic moment. Incidentally, the house is for sale!

A sadder excursion was to Famagusta, and the "ghost town" of Varasha, closed to civil life since the conflict of 1974. The hotels are all still there, as are the houses, and some say that, locked in underground car parks , there are still dozens of luxury cars. On the beach (said to be one of the best in Europe) where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor once frolicked, a few umbrellas and sun beds are now permitted, but nothing else is open. Apparently the zone is a part of a possible negotiation for re-unification!

The food in both parts of the island is equally good, but a bit cheaper in the north. So, my advice is, take a holiday in both North and South Cyprus!

Our client Patricia Pearson travelled to North Cyprus in May 2022

‘Let me just see the plane off, Torunn, then I’ll fetch your car, OK?’. We have just touched down at Hasvik airfield on Sørøya island, and in the arrival zone I’m perplexed to hear my name called out by a stranger. I turn around and a person – I’m assuming it’s Oddbjørn – smiles and waves. On Sørøya, Oddbjørn is the equivalent of Hertz and Avis. Together with my nephews Brage (16) and Kristian (11) and my sister Veronica, I have come to the island for the first time, with high hopes for some Big Fish Adventures. 

Sørøya is located north of Alta, west of Hammerfest in Troms & Finnmark, Norway’s northernmost county. It’s both the fourth largest island in Norway, and the biggest one to be unconnected to the mainland by road. Its intense summer green colors have given the island the name ‘The green eye in the North’, but this gem of a destination is increasingly known as ‘Storfiskens rike’ – Kingdom of the Big Fish. Surrounded by the deep Norwegian Sea and with more than 1200 freshwater lakes, this is a place full of improbable fishing stories, most of which are actually true. 

The High Road to a True Wilderness

Although we have chosen to arrive by air, Hasvik village can also be reached by car ferry or passenger ferry (LoppaXpressen) from Øksfjord – an embarkation port for Hurtigruten, located one hour and 40 minutes’ drive from Alta. The road from Hasvik (population 831) takes you through Breivikbotn (pop. 307) as far as Sørvær (pop. 239) 21 km away; by contrast, the villages on the island’s northern flank have no road connection to the south. That part of the island can be reached by passenger ferry (MåsøyXpressen) or car ferry from Hammerfest. The lack of road between north and south has prevented extensive (caravan) tourism on the island, helping to preserve the island’s authenticity, not to mention the wilderness at its core. 

Between 2017-20, the two local municipalities initiated a project with the Norwegian Trekking Association which resulted in the creation of a 100 km hiking trail from the mountain Fuglen in Sørvær to Tarhalsen in Akkarfjord (80 inhabitants and two camels). The path is marked with 15,000 red ‘T’s and 5000 ‘varder’ – stone cairns placed on high points in the terrain. The trek can be completed in 15-20 km stretches over a week, and introduces hikers to a rocky, mountainous landscape with steep slopes and rolling countryside, spectacular views, constantly changing weather conditions and temperatures in the neverending summer light. On this trip, however, we are not here to conquer the island on foot. 

Single Resource, Multiple Opportunities

In our chariot for the week, a 4WD Outlander, we drive the 1.4 km to our Sørøya home – a two-storey house by the sea featuring a pair of large terraces, direct harbour access and views reaching far across the sea to the towering peaks on the mainland. Kitted out with modern facilities and within easy walking distance to the town’s only grocery store, Rocky pub & dance bar, and the only restaurant, Håen Cafe & Bistro, we are well set up for the week! Which makes it all the easier to focus on our task for the week: to find out what kind of big fish are lurking underneath the surface of all this water surrounding us... 

We are given a warm welcome by Mona, Oddbjørn’s sister, who runs the local hotel and activity company with her 22 year old son Bilal and former husband Ahmad, who emigrated to Norway from Lebanon when he was 21. Over coffee on the porch, she shares her story and thoughts about the future for her family-run business. Mona does not want to attract huge numbers of guests and anglers to their beloved island; instead she wants to attract a smaller number of the right visitors, and on their terms. To meet the increasing interest in big fish adventures from a high-end clientele, the six units in Molokroken (where we are staying) will soon be supplemented with a new hotel building, designed by the internationally celebrated architects Snøhetta. This facility will be reconstructed from the original wood-framed fish factory on the harbour and will be retrofitted with a quayside sauna, restaurant, cafe and grocery shop.  

From the 1970s to the early 2000s, their hotel mainly catered to professionals from the commercial fishing industry. When three factories went bankrupt in 2002, the hotel lost most of its business and had to seek ‘new gold’ in order to make a living and keep its place on the island. Luckily, the proprietors soon realized that the fish was a resource that could be used in different ways to generate new business opportunities. With the help of professional recreational anglers Michal Simco and Marc von Roie, they set about rebuilding Sørøya’s image as a ‘Kingdom of the Big Fish’. Slowly but surely they succeeded in attracting anglers from all over the world. Today, the multitalented Bilal is the prime mover when it comes to developing their fishing activity business. Together with fellow anglers and marine recreational fishing (MRF) enthusiasts Daniel and Hans Kristian, Bilal has assembled valuable knowledge and insight about the best fishing spots, equipment, species, how to get big fish to bite, and methods that thrill anglers of all sorts, as well as encouraging good fish health and welfare while preventing negative impacts on fish stocks.

Marine Recreational Fishing - A brief introduction 

Norway is Europe’s biggest marine recreational fishing nation. (MRF is defined as ‘fishing for purposes other than meeting a basic nutritional need or for sale/trade’.) Why? It provides many health-promoting and wellbeing benefits, including powerful nature experiences, quality time with friends and family, and positive impact on the environment. The economic impact is also immense: MRF in Europe has been estimated to contribute around 10.5 billion euros while supporting 99,500 full-time jobs.

Because this recreational form of fishing often has limited regulation, it relies on responsible participants using best angling practices in order to minimize any negative impact on fish stocks. The rise of recreational fishing has led to greater awareness of many environmental issues around the ecology of fishing, with knock-on benefits to the local ecosystem. 

Our first Big Fish Adventure 

Daniel, our fishing guide, is well informed about all this research. He is also one of Norway’s best species-fishermen, despite his tender age of just 21. Like all of Big Fish Adventure’s guides, he is certified in coastal fishing, safety and crisis management. Dressed in Teletubby-like survival suits, we head out to sea. Our first mission: to catch pollock which will serve as bait for our main objective: the much larger halibut. 

Whereas national laws permit the landing of all halibut between 80-200 cm, the Big Fish Adventure crew releases all fish sized between 80-130 cm, and limits every guest to a maximum of two halibuts per trip. This is to secure the future halibut population and ensure Sørøya remains a world class fishing destination for future generations. Halibuts bigger than 130 cm – a common catch in these parts – are mostly female, and play an important role in species propagation. 

For those of us born and raised inland, hooking pollock so easily, while watching the breathtaking coastal scenery – the deep green island, turquoise water, coral beaches, small huts scattered across the mountainsides dropping into narrow fjords – is (almost) enough to make this trip worthwhile on its own. Daniel shares his knowledge with a contagious passion, and plays music which adds an entertaining diversion while covering the distances between fishing spots. For me personally, the whole thing is a healthy exercise in patience as we wait and wait for the big fish to bite. Hours pass, and when the halibut is finally hooked, we are in the last minutes of the sixth and final hour of our fishing adventure. 

The excitement onboard is immense and our patience is rewarded straight away. Slowly but surely, and to ecstatic cries, a 143 cm long halibut is coaxed to the surface and carefully lifted into the boat for observation, measurement and two quick trophy pictures, before being released back into the deep sea. Together with researcher Keno Ferter from the Institute of Marine Research, a lot of work has gone into finding the least harmful catch-and-release methods, and we are assured that the hole we’ve pierced through the fish’s skin near the jaw should heal within a week. High on adrenaline, we return to the shore full of experience and newly gained knowledge, inspired to explore further. 

Island Life - Therapy for Busy Minds

It’s not only in the deep sea around the island that fish can be found. More than 900 of Sørøya’s 1200 freshwater lakes are teeming with them. Many of the lakes can be accessed on spectacular hiking trails of varying lengths and levels. We spend our remaining days on leisurely hikes to lakes such as Krokvatnet and Bollevatn. On various occasions we get lost, wade across rivers, and follow forest and mountain paths with no mobile coverage. While fishing, we sit in the midst of impressive natural landscapes totally devoid of other people. Only the reindeer, frequently traversing the more remote areas, watch us like strangers in their domain. 

Sørøya is also known for its war history. Around the island are everal spectacular caves used as bolt-holes in the second world war by honorable northern Norwegians who refused to be deported by the German occupiers. One of these caverns, Kvithellhula, shaped by waves over millennia, was home to 35 refugees over 99 days in the winter of 1944-45. 

Despite the neverending daylight, slow life seems to travel fast, and we discover that one short week on the island is not enough.

Bespoke Travel 

Tailored Sørøya Island adventures can be curated for experienced anglers as well as beginners, or just anyone seeking a slow-paced escape holiday in spectacular surroundings. A week adventure (6 nights) in a harbourside Molokroken unit (6 person capacity), including two guided big fish adventures by boat, 4WD rental car at disposal, one guided island excursion with picnic, and one culinary Taste of Sørøya dinner experience, it priced from XXX USD per person based on 6 guests travelling together. 

Crossing Sørøya by Foot can be done with a private nature guide or as part of a small guided trekking group. Prices on request.

This guest blog was written by Torunn Tronsvang from UP Norway, one of our partners in Norway

A year ago, a Norwegian customer sent us an enquiry asking whether we could plan a journey for her through Reisa National Park. We had to ask her to ‘hold that thought’ for another year, so we could familiarise ourselves with this intriguing and remote part of the country – one of the few areas our team knew little about. 

On a winter trip to the area earlier this year, we were introduced to local insiders – professional activity providers – who were keen to facilitate journeys for our guests. Before I knew it, I had four travel companions booked to accompany me on a combined trekking and pack-rafting adventure, from Kautokeino to Reisa, over four days in summer.

Nordkalotten (The Arctic Trail) – Long distance hiking above the Arctic Circle

The Arctic Trail stretches over 800 km from Sulitjelma in Norway (Nordkalottruta) through Sweden (Nordkalottleden) to Kvikkjokk in Finland (Kalottireitti). Our goal for this year’s summer vacation was to venture along the route inside Reisa National Park, a virtually untouched natural landscape cut through by the Reisa, one of the world’s most bountiful salmon rivers. For me, what made this adventure especially attractive was the added cultural dimension: people of Norwegian, Sami and Kven origins have long used this National Park’s resources, and their unique folk cultures are reflected in the area.

Day 1: Biedjovággi to Reisavannet Lake (11 km / 4 hrs)

After a comfortable night at Kautokeino’s only hotel, where we were warmly greeted by our Sami friends Jon Mikkel and Odd Arne, we set off to the starting point just before Biedjovággi in the sunny morning light. The driver arrived just on (local) time – a Sami half hour late. Somewhere between Kautokeino and the starting point, we lost mobile coverage, and enjoyed the luxury of being disconnected from the world until reaching Reisa four days later. 

Slightly nervous about the notorious Finnmark mosquitos, we had stuffed our rucksacks with items of bite-resistant clothing as well as various repellents. Our fears turned out to have been exaggerated, yet the spray was effective, and the bugs graciously kept their distance. The trail followed reindeer fences and led us through marshland covered in cloudberries so that we could eat our way to our first camp, the summer house of the three-generation Sami Nilut family. 

Happiness can be felt in so many ways, and our stay with the Nilut family was no exception. Imagine a wood-fired sauna and tub in the freshwater lake, Reisavannet. Drinking a cold northern Norwegian beer on the terrace in the summer sun over attentive and humorous conversation, joiks (Sami folksong) and fortune-telling around the fire, a sumptuous meal of bidos (reindeer stew) and cloudberries, rounded off with a spot of fishing under the midnight sun. 

Day 2: Reisavannet to Nedrefoss via Imofossen waterfall (27 km / 10 hours) 

After a sumptuous breakfast with our Sami hosts, we embarked on the greatest challenge of this trip: the long hike from the mountain plateau, through birch and pine forest into the narrow Reisa valley and the narrow canyon surrounding the impressive Imo waterfall. After 23 km of hiking, I was the only one in our group motivated to make the 1 km detour to Imofossen. (Insider tip: this hike can be split in two, with a night at Arthurgamma cabin.) What makes this waterfall unique is the opportunity to gaze down at the 20 m high waterfall as it plunges over a granite cliff into a canyon and is met by a smaller tributary, Spanijohka. Together, these two waterfalls, as well as the surrounding rocky landscape and giant potholes, add up to a powerful sight.

When I reached the Nedrefoss cabin, my fellow hikers had already lit a fire in the rustic cabin managed by the Norwegian trekking association. We cooked our evening meal on the gas stove, and enjoyed a peaceful evening in the cabin, in the glow of candlelight and the unending summer light. Two of us still had enough energy to try out the adjacent river sauna and take a refreshing dip in the Reisa river, one of the clearest watercourses in Norway. It’s so clear that, from the suspension bridge leading to the cabin, you can spot the giant salmon swimming in the river below. 

Day 3: Nedrefoss to Siemma (3 km hiking, 14 km paddling) 

We were all excited by the idea of trying pack-rafting for the first time, and happy to meet up with our guide Steffen. He had brought with him fresh breakfast sandwiches and locally produced blueberry juice. After a brief introduction, we jumped into our single and double pack-rafts and set off downriver, with Steffen keeping an eye out for us from his riverboat. These craft were originally punts; these days they are motorized. 

Floating down the crystal-clear river, navigating through gentle rapids and watching the mountains rising high up on both sides of the canyon was a rewarding experience. We anchored up near the Mollisfossen waterfall – the largest and most popular attraction in Reisa. Only one other group of people (three people in total) were there at the same time as us. The falls here are 269 meters high, with a vertical drop of 140 m. We were able to walk right next to it and feel the ground shaking and the water spraying in our faces. On our return to the riverbank, Steffen had set out lunch on a white tablecloth by the fire, and served reindeer tortilla wraps with lingonberry sour cream and a local rhubarb cordial. For dessert: smoked dried reindeer and fresh cinnamon rolls accompanied by bonfire-brewed coffee from the local beanery.

Upon reaching Siemma we settled into our small wooden cabin and cranked up the heat to dry our clothes. Two of our party had capsized in the pack-rafts and ‘enjoyed’ an involuntary river dip – to gales of laughter. We spent the evening outside by the fire, playing cards, reading, chatting and indulging in the goodie bag of food, drinks and snacks Steffen had left for us. We took the rowing boat across the river to see the rock art dating back to the Bronze Age (1800 BCE). It is believed that the special rock formation where the drawings were made was perceived as a portal through which shamans could connect with the dead. 

Day 4, Siemma to Saraelv (10 km paddling), onwards to Reisastua Lodge

In the morning, Steffen appeared with Kalla, a new guide who would accompany us down the final stretch of the river. We stopped at a beach to grill sausages on the fire, and enjoyed the last day of absolutely perfect hiking and paddling weather: not too warm, not too cold, a little wind to keep the mosquitos away, sunny with a few clouds to prevent sunburn. We were picked up in a white Hummer by the owner of Reisastua Lodge and checked into suites overlooking the river. In Sami-inspired robes we found our way to the rooftop jacuzzi and toasted our trip with glasses of champagne. And then sat down to plan our next adventure... 

This guest blog was written by Torunn Tronsvang from UP Norway, one of our partners in Norway

When we think of Greece we imagine island life and blue, blue seas all around us – but did you know that Greece is the third most mountainous country in Europe? Having been to Greece several times in the past, I thought it was high time I made my way to the country’s spectacular verdant interior finishing the holiday off with a few days on a beach.

We landed at the small airport of Preveza and picked up a car for the duration of our trip. Roads throughout were excellent – a good mix of picturesque local streets, mountain tunnels and toll motorways. This wasn’t a boring monotonous drive at all!

Our first stop was the iconic Meteora – I was dying to see it for years! The word Meteora means literally 'hovering in the air'. 

What becomes quite obvious is that it is not only a man-made wonder but also that of nature – the rocks are totally unique for the area and look very different compared to other mountainous formations around them.

Without a doubt Meteora with its monasteries perched on the very top is one of the most spectacular places to visit in Greece and it is incredible to even imagine what human resources it must have taken to build them.

The area was originally settled by monks who lived in caves within the rocks during the 11th century. But as the times became more unsettled during an age of Turkish occupation, they climbed higher and higher up the rock surface until they were living on the inaccessible peaks.

They built these monasteries by bringing materials and people up with ladders and baskets. One of the monasteries we visited had carved stairs leading inside the rock with a door shutting intruders off – not dissimilar to a fortress!

The place is highly recommended for visiting, especially for pilgrims and people interested in religion - the atmosphere of each monastery is very special and peaceful. Make sure to wear respectable clothing, covering knees and shoulders. 

Our second stop was beautiful Tzoumerka national park, occupying an area of about 820 km2 and boasting mountainous complexes, the Arachthos River gorge and the springs of the Acheloos River.

The park is home to  a  lot  of  endemic  species  of  plants and rare & protected species of mammals such as the otter, deer, brown bear, the wild goat as well as about 145 species of birds. We had to stop our car a couple of times and let tortoises cross the road safely!  

The National Park also houses an enormous outdoor folklore museum of stone bridges, cultural monuments and traditional settlements – all working in unique harmony with beautiful landscapes, dramatic mountains, gorges and  caverns. 

Our main aim was to experience white water rafting down the Arachatos river gorge. What an enjoyable experience it was! You can hike along the river too but just floating down and enjoying the stunning sceneries all around us was our day activity of choice.

The river is quite tame in summer so no previous experience is needed, however if you desire more of an action-filled experience, come here in February or March when the water level is substantially higher.

Staying in the mountains was such a treat and a contrast to the coast – mornings and evenings were crisp and refreshing and we even experienced a little rain to cool us down.

This really is a unique part of Greece and I am so pleased we got to finally experience it. 

Maryna traveled to Greece in July 2021, give her a call to discuss your holiday

Header Image by Georger Tasios from Unsplash

As a person who has visited numerous exotic destinations, I understand the importance of nature and authenticity preservation. And the hidden gem of a country we will talk about today has both in heaps.

Located off the coast of Africa in the Gulf of Guinea, São Tomé and Príncipe is the second smallest country of the continent after Seychelles and its beauty will impress even the most intrepid traveller. This island nation is part of a volcano chain boasting of striking rock and coral formations, rainforests and beaches, not to mention its fascinating history! This unspoilt destination is safe and friendly and ecotourists in particular will find it appealing due to its Jurassic park feel.

Did you know that São Tomé and Príncipe have more endemic species per square kilometre than the Galapagos? In 2012 Príncipe became a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve so it’s development, including tourism, is carefully regulated under the Man and Biosphere Programme. The Principeans are proud of their biosphere status and it is something that unites islanders and visitors.

Quite unusually the country enjoys two dry seasons! The first one is between December and February and the second is June through September. Although the best time to bird watch is October to March - don' forget your binoculars - there is a lot to watch! The two primary islands of São Tomé and Príncipe together with several rocky islets are home to just over 215,000 inhabitants. 

So how do you travel to this little piece of paradise? The only way to get there is by flying to Sao Tome where the international airport is located. The airport on Principe is only serviced by domestic flights connecting the two islands sitting 140 km apart with the flight time taking only 35 minutes.

If you come from Europe, you can choose between STR Airways or TAP Portugal both flying from Lisbon. Travelling from Africa, the options are Ghana, Gabon and Angola.

 The official language is Portuguese and the long history of the country goes back to the same time as that of the Americas - the colony of São Tomé was founded in 1493, just a year after Christopher Columbus officially set foot on the continent. Sugar cane was the main commodity at the time and the remnants of historic Portuguese architecture can still be found around the islands in the form of charming colonial buildings, churches and old plantations. Presently Sao Tome is also the place where they produce some of the most exclusive chocolate in the world as well as excellent coffee! Yum!

When it comes to accommodation there is a property that really stands out - we love Sundy Praia, one of the National Geographic unique lodges of the world that is a sustainable tourism project providing unforgettable experiences through interaction with the local community.

 Merging seamlessly with their forest surrounds, their 15 tented villas lie hidden among a scattering of tropical almond and banana trees, each gazing down to the sea and recreating the lifestyle of local people. 

Surrounded by the songs of birds and sounds of clashing waves you will feel free with stress just melting away. 

Activities at the lodge include scenic boat trips, biosphere trails, 4X4 island tours, local fishing village and plantation visits and so much more. Female sea turtles come to lay their eggs on the beaches of Principe island between September and April and families in particular will be interested to learn about the conservation of this threatened species.

But not everything is about ecotourism here - special events such as weddings and honeymoons will become a treat that you will never forget.

I am getting itchy feet simply from writing about this stunning destination and hope you will too. Get in touch for your tailormade proposal.

Images by @HBD Principe

South Korea, in the heart of East Asia, is one the continent’s economic and cultural leaders. It is visited by millions of Asian tourists yearly, although it is still not as developed for international tourism compared to popular Asians destinations for Westerners such as Thailand or Japan.

Buddhist Temple

I visited South Korea in April 2019. It was my first trip to an Asian country! Why did I choose this destination? That’s easy - Think ancient temples, spotlessly clean streets, cherry blossom, modern skyscrapers, Korean cuisine and a country enriched with history (and let’s not forget premium skincare).

The incredible Gyeongbokgung Palace

One of the first things I noticed in the capital city Seoul, where I spent my hotel stay, was the Koreans’ sense of community. As an English & French native and speaking fluent Spanish, I was quite surprised to find out most Koreans do not speak any European languages! It was a challenge to speak with them but so rewarding, as it was the first time I went to a country where I could not properly communicate with a local community. It is important here to respect Koreans, to be patient in understanding each other and using body language.  

However, the locals are so welcoming and will help you if you get lost in the City. They are not used to seeing Westerners, so they feel privileged to see responsible visitors come to their small, traditional restaurants and are eager to share their culture.  

(Travel Matters Tip: Koreans love their spicy food, so if they tell you that Ramen is not very spicy, watch out, you may need a few glasses of water on the side!)

Seoul Suburbs

A contentious topic that I was determined to understand a little more about was regarding the use of the Hanbok (or Chosŏn-ot - a traditional clothing worn during formal occasions) by tourists -

Do you think international tourists should be given a choice to wear this traditional clothing?

Is it considered as cultural appropriation?

The Hanbok (pictured below) is an ancient traditional attire consisting of the dress, headgear and accessories. I asked locals regarding this subject, and whilst everyone can have their own opinion, Koreans mostly do not mind it. In fact, they encourage travellers to try on the dress as they feel proud it is part of their national culture and they love to share this with foreigners. Indeed, it is very common to pass by small shops that offer a day Hanbok rental!

Hanbok, or Chosŏn-ot

So, is South Korea on your bucket list of responsible travels?

(Sophie travelled to South Korea in April 2019)