A year ago, a Norwegian customer sent us an enquiry asking whether we could plan a journey for her through Reisa National Park. We had to ask her to ‘hold that thought’ for another year, so we could familiarise ourselves with this intriguing and remote part of the country – one of the few areas our team knew little about. 

On a winter trip to the area earlier this year, we were introduced to local insiders – professional activity providers – who were keen to facilitate journeys for our guests. Before I knew it, I had four travel companions booked to accompany me on a combined trekking and pack-rafting adventure, from Kautokeino to Reisa, over four days in summer.

Nordkalotten (The Arctic Trail) – Long distance hiking above the Arctic Circle

The Arctic Trail stretches over 800 km from Sulitjelma in Norway (Nordkalottruta) through Sweden (Nordkalottleden) to Kvikkjokk in Finland (Kalottireitti). Our goal for this year’s summer vacation was to venture along the route inside Reisa National Park, a virtually untouched natural landscape cut through by the Reisa, one of the world’s most bountiful salmon rivers. For me, what made this adventure especially attractive was the added cultural dimension: people of Norwegian, Sami and Kven origins have long used this National Park’s resources, and their unique folk cultures are reflected in the area.

Day 1: Biedjovággi to Reisavannet Lake (11 km / 4 hrs)

After a comfortable night at Kautokeino’s only hotel, where we were warmly greeted by our Sami friends Jon Mikkel and Odd Arne, we set off to the starting point just before Biedjovággi in the sunny morning light. The driver arrived just on (local) time – a Sami half hour late. Somewhere between Kautokeino and the starting point, we lost mobile coverage, and enjoyed the luxury of being disconnected from the world until reaching Reisa four days later. 

Slightly nervous about the notorious Finnmark mosquitos, we had stuffed our rucksacks with items of bite-resistant clothing as well as various repellents. Our fears turned out to have been exaggerated, yet the spray was effective, and the bugs graciously kept their distance. The trail followed reindeer fences and led us through marshland covered in cloudberries so that we could eat our way to our first camp, the summer house of the three-generation Sami Nilut family. 

Happiness can be felt in so many ways, and our stay with the Nilut family was no exception. Imagine a wood-fired sauna and tub in the freshwater lake, Reisavannet. Drinking a cold northern Norwegian beer on the terrace in the summer sun over attentive and humorous conversation, joiks (Sami folksong) and fortune-telling around the fire, a sumptuous meal of bidos (reindeer stew) and cloudberries, rounded off with a spot of fishing under the midnight sun. 

Day 2: Reisavannet to Nedrefoss via Imofossen waterfall (27 km / 10 hours) 

After a sumptuous breakfast with our Sami hosts, we embarked on the greatest challenge of this trip: the long hike from the mountain plateau, through birch and pine forest into the narrow Reisa valley and the narrow canyon surrounding the impressive Imo waterfall. After 23 km of hiking, I was the only one in our group motivated to make the 1 km detour to Imofossen. (Insider tip: this hike can be split in two, with a night at Arthurgamma cabin.) What makes this waterfall unique is the opportunity to gaze down at the 20 m high waterfall as it plunges over a granite cliff into a canyon and is met by a smaller tributary, Spanijohka. Together, these two waterfalls, as well as the surrounding rocky landscape and giant potholes, add up to a powerful sight.

When I reached the Nedrefoss cabin, my fellow hikers had already lit a fire in the rustic cabin managed by the Norwegian trekking association. We cooked our evening meal on the gas stove, and enjoyed a peaceful evening in the cabin, in the glow of candlelight and the unending summer light. Two of us still had enough energy to try out the adjacent river sauna and take a refreshing dip in the Reisa river, one of the clearest watercourses in Norway. It’s so clear that, from the suspension bridge leading to the cabin, you can spot the giant salmon swimming in the river below. 

Day 3: Nedrefoss to Siemma (3 km hiking, 14 km paddling) 

We were all excited by the idea of trying pack-rafting for the first time, and happy to meet up with our guide Steffen. He had brought with him fresh breakfast sandwiches and locally produced blueberry juice. After a brief introduction, we jumped into our single and double pack-rafts and set off downriver, with Steffen keeping an eye out for us from his riverboat. These craft were originally punts; these days they are motorized. 

Floating down the crystal-clear river, navigating through gentle rapids and watching the mountains rising high up on both sides of the canyon was a rewarding experience. We anchored up near the Mollisfossen waterfall – the largest and most popular attraction in Reisa. Only one other group of people (three people in total) were there at the same time as us. The falls here are 269 meters high, with a vertical drop of 140 m. We were able to walk right next to it and feel the ground shaking and the water spraying in our faces. On our return to the riverbank, Steffen had set out lunch on a white tablecloth by the fire, and served reindeer tortilla wraps with lingonberry sour cream and a local rhubarb cordial. For dessert: smoked dried reindeer and fresh cinnamon rolls accompanied by bonfire-brewed coffee from the local beanery.

Upon reaching Siemma we settled into our small wooden cabin and cranked up the heat to dry our clothes. Two of our party had capsized in the pack-rafts and ‘enjoyed’ an involuntary river dip – to gales of laughter. We spent the evening outside by the fire, playing cards, reading, chatting and indulging in the goodie bag of food, drinks and snacks Steffen had left for us. We took the rowing boat across the river to see the rock art dating back to the Bronze Age (1800 BCE). It is believed that the special rock formation where the drawings were made was perceived as a portal through which shamans could connect with the dead. 

Day 4, Siemma to Saraelv (10 km paddling), onwards to Reisastua Lodge

In the morning, Steffen appeared with Kalla, a new guide who would accompany us down the final stretch of the river. We stopped at a beach to grill sausages on the fire, and enjoyed the last day of absolutely perfect hiking and paddling weather: not too warm, not too cold, a little wind to keep the mosquitos away, sunny with a few clouds to prevent sunburn. We were picked up in a white Hummer by the owner of Reisastua Lodge and checked into suites overlooking the river. In Sami-inspired robes we found our way to the rooftop jacuzzi and toasted our trip with glasses of champagne. And then sat down to plan our next adventure... 

This guest blog was written by Torunn Tronsvang from UP Norway, one of our partners in Norway

A guest blog written for Travel Matters by Derek Moore, a founder of The Derek Moore Foundation

A few thoughts to take on board as you think about taking an exciting adventure holiday: 

Firstly, if you have any sense at all you will do as much research into who you book the holiday with as you will do on the potential destination. Adventure travel is exciting and addictive, but things can and do sometimes go wrong and you want to know that your holiday operator will look after you if things go wrong. Also, a reputable travel organiser will give you honest advice, rather than try to talk you into a trip that might not be exactly what you want. Pretty obviously, of course, this is where Travel Matters comes in! 

Villagers in Nepal building water-pipe to bring water to the village

When checking out the trip you have chosen, take the time to ensure that the activities you will experience sound as though they are authentic. On some trips the authenticity is staged. (I remember well an evening at a hotel in Greece where we were served an excellent evening meal by waiters casually dressed in jeans and tee-shirts, prior to an evening of Authentic Greek folk dancing. But where were the dancers? As soon as they had cleared away our plates all the waiter suddenly disappeared behind a screen, to emerge five minutes later in traditional Greek clothes, to perform to a tape recorder some traditional Greek dances with obligatory plate smashing). Make sure your itinerary doesn’t include staged authenticity. 

When you are on your trip, let’s say it’s a trekking trip through a mountainous region, be sure to look around you, really look, behind the wonderful views and the bustling markets. Are the people amongst whom you are walking, seemingly struggling, behind their smiles, to live a reasonable life, or do the houses, when you look carefully at them, suggest that the village is pretty much on the poverty line? If they do, make a mental note for when you get home. 

And when you are back home, reflect on what you have seen and ask yourself, have I just taken part in a one-way, or a t wo-way, experience? 

Well Project in Posoli, Nicaragua

All too often, visitors – particularly if visiting a remote region where life is clearly difficult – take part in a one-way experience, a one-way transaction. They visit a village, buy up food in the markets, take pictures of local people and then favour them with a smile before strolling on, and stay with families or in a small hotel, where they use up fuel for heating and water for washing without thinking where any of it came from. They take. Then they depart. They take, but they don’t think about giving something in exchange, about giving something back. Some travellers don’t even think about this need for a two-way transaction.

But some do. I remember one trekker saying, on getting back to the comforts of home, “Oh I had a fabulous time! It was all so fascinating! But oh – those poor people, they were so generous to us but really, they had nothing. If only there was a way to give something back to them!” 

Tree-planting in St James school in Kenya

Well, there is a way to give something back. The Derek Moore Foundation – set up by the one-time owner of adventure company Explore, who saw the need to be able to give something back - funds community Projects in small communities around the world. The sort of small communities that many travellers have passed through and have wanted to help. Projects such as supplying solar lighting to villages in Nepal, providing medical equipment to mid-wives working in the mountains of Guatemala, or supporting an agricultural Project in Costa Rica. These are just three of the 20 projects that the Foundation is currently supporting. 

And the Foundation needs your help – without funds it cannot give something back. The Foundation Projects are all small, the type of projects that bigger charities over-look or feel are too small to be bothered with. So donating, say the cost of an evening meal, can make quite a difference to these projects, which, as the Foundation says, are helping to change lives. 

And that’s what we mean by ‘giving something back’.

As Travel Matters comes to the end of 2020 and continues to operate into our third decade, I look at our vision and mission with a sense of renewed purpose. At the beginning of the year, I signed a declaration “Tourism Declares a Climate Emergency.” This commitment remains as true today as it did in January, despite this challenging year of global pandemic.

The Vision

We curate and sell bespoke holidays and experiences around the world. We have a responsibility to create memorable travel experiences in a world where local communities and our planet can co- exist and flourish. We are dedicated to show how travel, when done right, can impact the world in a positive manner and can break down barriers. We aim to help protect the destinations we send travellers to and endeavour to engage our clients, industry wide connections and employees through our Make Travel Matter campaign.

Travel Matters acknowledges that climate change is real and there is a climate emergency. We recognise we have to act now to address this crisis in our third decade of trading. We pledge to work with our suppliers by collaborating to help build a new, regenerative tourism industry that engages our clients.

The Mission

We are dedicated to show how travel, when done right, can impact the world in a positive manner using tourism as a force for good. We are passionate about travelling and aim to share how we care for our planet and people through our work.

How we operate a travel company & address our carbon footprint + reduction in the work place:
We use Ecotricity as our energy provider using 100% renewable energy.
Use energy efficient light bulbs and turn off electrical devices when not in use.

Minimise our water use.
We recycle.
We use our own re useable bottles.
We cycle and walk to work or take public transport.

We put a reminder in our email signatures.
Use FSC-certified or recycled paper in the office and replace direct marketing with e-marketing.
Use the Ecosia Web Browser.

We facilitate team meetings and external meetings via conference call at every possible opportunity to reduce the need for physical travel.

We operate a remote working policy where possible.

With our partners:

Develop our partnership with Jump, engaging travel companies to embrace sustainability.

Continue supporting the Travel Foundation, as part of their role in the Future for Tourism Coalition.

Plant trees for every holiday booked through our partnership with Trees for Cities.

Support Climate Perks, the scheme for employers who grant additional days to staff to enable them to travel on holiday overland, without ‘losing’ leave days for the travel time.

We encourage the offsetting of carbon emissions for flights through Flightnook, who have an online emissions calculator.

We choose carefully our specialist suppliers and partners, some as AITO members who share the values that we do and pledge to protect the environment, respect local cultures, traditions, religions and built heritage, benefit local communities – both economically and socially, conserve natural resources from office to destination and minimise pollution through noise, waste disposal and congestion.

We favour partnering with community-owned/managed lodges or hotels, where our clients can have a meaningful impact on the local community.

In our client’s journey and holiday planning experience:

We encourage clients to use the train to reach destinations instead of flying as well as booking car hire or trains to travel between destinations.

We provide information about which airlines and routes are most efficient.

We encourage travellers by advocating the pack for a purpose initiative – taking small essentials that help the local communities they visit.

We believe cultural immersion and experiencing a new way of life transforms the guest.

We provide tips and ideas of how to support programmes and organisations that are working to protect the welfare, culture and environment within the destinations.

We encourage the support of the local communities by buying local, eating local food and drinking local brands as well as supporting local traditional artisans for their locally made products. We want to help keep traditional crafts alive, while also supporting small, independent business owners and artists.

Our Tourism Declares a Climate Emergency Plan

As Travel Matters heads into its 3rd decade and develops as a company, we aim to keep sustainability and responsible tourism at the heart of our business model. We have a responsibility to promote sustainable travel where possible and help protect the destinations, landscapes and habitats our customers love to visit.

Through our communications on social media, blogs, interviews and our conversations with our clients, our Make Travel Matter campaign raises awareness of how tourism can and should have a positive impact, as well as highlighting the negative impact of the climate crisis. We promote ideas around conservation & regeneration as well as helping travellers consider how to give back in meaningful ways, ensuring local communities, destinations and the environment benefit.

We aim to encourage clients and partners to take measures to monitor and reduce carbon through the development of our Jump partnership; an engagement programme that boosts sustainability and wellbeing.

We continue to explore partnerships which complement and align with our values and offer services which support Tourism Declares a Climate Emergency. We agree with the principles of the Future for Tourism Coalition.

We will continue to advocate for system change in travel, particularly in aviation as we learn more about carbon levy proposals for frequent flyer programmes as we aim to create a low carbon future.

We commit to reviewing, monitoring and reducing our own carbon impacts, both personally and professionally. Our partnership with Trees for Cities will continue as we pledge to have a tree planted on each holiday sold.

We are committed to collaborate with the Tourism Declares community, through learning and sharing better practice collectively.

Images by:

Scott Evans @scottsweb on Unsplash

Andreea-Maria Juganaru @andreeajuganaru on Unsplash

This guest blog was written by Tricia Barnett, Director of Equality in Tourism.

Equality in Tourism believes tourism should be fairer for women. We are a charity working to put gender on the agenda of global tourism. We want women all over the world to enjoy equal benefits of tourism, because in general they don’t. It’s not at all unusual for women to be working at the in the least well paid jobs with little opportunities for training. For example, a housekeeper in an award winning eco hotel in a country like Sri Lanka or Kenya might just earn £1 a day. She also might be struggling with a split shift, which means she hardly gets to see her children. But there are all sorts of ways that women can benefit from tourism and it’s so normal to see women selling their handicrafts or opening their homes for visitors to stay. For many of these women, tourism has been empowering.

Women farmers in Tanzania

But there are also people who live in successful tourism destinations who live in a parallel universe and have no idea how they might benefit from the visitors who are in a separate bubble. Equality in Tourism has our own path breaking project in the Kilimanjaro region of Tanzania. So many people come to climb the iconic mountain, but all around are impoverished families living a subsistence life. Many of these are farmers, and in Tanzania as elsewhere in the world, it is women who are the farmers. 

Four years ago we began work with a local women’s empowerment organisation, KWIECO ww.kwieco.com 

to train the most marginalised farming women in better farming methods, farming as a business, entrepreneurship and women’s empowerment. The objective was to help them create a co-operative which would supply the many local hotels and lodges with quality fruit and vegetables. Before training, they competed with each other in the market place to sell their produce to dealers. Prices were very low. So low, that when we first began work with the women and started a microfinance scheme, some couldn’t even save 30 pence.

Our business plan showed that the co-operative, Wamboma: Women Farming for Their Future, would be self sufficient in three years. They opened a shop. But then climate change created floods and drought that destroyed three crops. We raised money and now they have industrial sized greenhouses, drip irrigation, tanks and pumps. 

We were back on our feet. Until Covid-19 closed all the hotels and tourism came to a halt. 

We have always operated on a shoestring. But now we are stuck. The women are back in the market place and not getting the cost of their labour back as they sell at low prices once again. Having saved brilliantly and made use of their loans to send their children to university or buy a sowing machine or improve their farms, they can no longer save. What is such an important asset though, is that they have, for the first time in their lives, food security. 

We have had to think on our feet and the women would like to be trained to dry their produce and – a very western suggestion – to create farm boxes. All of this needs investment for training and equipment and a website, so we need to fundraise again. 

The results have been life changing. We would love to take the learning and share it elsewhere where women farm and tourism is a key industry.

Tricia at a weekly meeting in Namwai

The women, who were the most marginalised in their communities, are now sought out for their advice. They are managing the shop and their savings and their production. They are working together. They are challenging their men to support them better and are being supported to fight against gender based violence that has been rampant. It is quite wonderful to hear from the women how the project has changed their lives. Before the pandemic, a big adventure operator was organising for their tours to come to the villages and meet the women and see what they’ve achieved and to buy their produce. 

One day, perhaps you will be able to as well. You would be very welcome. 

Tricia Barnett 

www.equalityintourism.org 

Director 

Equality in Tourism