Many of you who know me personally will understand that I am obsessed with the healing qualities of water, especially the cold water. Having swum at Tooting Bec lido for the last 14 years throughout the winter months as well as the summer, I am convinced of the healing benefits of cold water. I created retreats by a Scottish Loch so I could share my passion of the water with others. This pastime has opened new doors for me, I have become a swim ambassador and volunteer for Mental Health Swims, I qualified as an open water lifeguard and more importantly I have made some new friendships from the global cold water swimming community.

Karen at the Guinness World Record attempt for under ice swimming in Norway

Amber Fillary is one of those new connections for me. Amber is an individual who too, understands the benefits of the cold water for wellbeing. As a recovered addict and someone who suffered with mental health issues, she is now a motivational speaker who too, wants to share her love for the healing qualities the cold water brings. In autumn 2023, we are partnering together to organise another retreat in Scotland. Amber is also a free diver (don’t try this at home!) and was attempting to break her own Guinness World Record on swimming under ice in a single breathe for over 100 metres. The attempt was in Norway this March.

The river at Kongsberg, Norway

I travelled to Norway to watch her. I flew with Norse Air, a new airline that offers affordable fares on long-haul flights, primarily between Europe and the United States. It has a service to New York from London via Oslo. From Oslo, I headed to Kongsberg by train. There is a train station directly at the airport for ease and an hourly train service to Kongsberg. The town of Kongsberg was very close to being the capital of Norway in the 17th century due to their wealth from the silver they mined. These days, it’s a small town of just over 26,000, lying on the mighty river Numedalslågen.

Amber Fillary by the ice hole, Norway

Amber’s attempted free dive took place just outside of Kongsberg in a lake. With ice holes dug out set 10 metres apart, the ice was over 50 cms in depth. There were scuba divers under the water and judges above as well as below the frozen lake. Sadly, due to a bad infected cut on her knee, which had got worse by the hour with swelling on her shin too, her body was unable to achieve her record attempt. Being under the water for over 3 minutes on a single breath whilst dealing with an infection meant that despite having trained and achieved the distance in the days before, her attempt did not  qualify for the officials. It was disappointing for her. The Guinness World Records are not easy and this extreme sport is dangerous. She is determind to secure her own record and will return to the lake in twelve months to attempt the record again.

After my time in Kongsberg, I returned to Oslo. I had several hours looking around the city by foot. Must see attractions are the harbour, the Akershus Fortress which is a medieval castle built to protect and provide a royal residence for the city, and the Royal Palace. The Royal Palace in Oslo was built in the first half of the 19th century as the Norwegian residence of the French-born King Charles III John, who reigned as king of Norway and Sweden.

Opera House Oslo, Norway

Oslo has several ski fields around the city. Climbing hills in Norway is a natural thing to do. This seems to apply to a very special building too. The city’s iconic Opera House. You must climb the Opera House roof. Climb for amazing views of the fjord archipelago with small, traditional wooden summer houses. You get a great view of the saunas alongside the waterfront with cold water bathers enjoying a sauna experience with a cold dip in the icy waters of the fjord.

Saunas by the waterfront in Oslo Norway

I caught the 81 bus from Oslo centre to head to my final destination, a hotel that specialises in wellness. The Well is a all singing, all dancing Spa hotel. You can join in the spa rituals for a unique and exciting wellness experience. I participated in the magical sauna rituals, hot and cold baths, and felt the community with others. This can give you a real mood boost and strengthen your body and mind!

 With saunas, hammans, jacuzzis, pools – inside and outside, I could not think of a better place to unwind, to relax and become quite zen- like after the emotional rollercoaster of a weekend. I spent an hour or two dipping in and out of water and heating up my core again in a sauna before chilling off in the cold water. The Well attracts many locals who come to enjoy the spa, however the hotel has hotel rooms for guests wanting to stay overnight. The brasserie serves delicious meals where you can dine in your bath robe – no need to get dressed.  Their Signature rooms have large windows that let in both generous amounts of light, the clean air and the sounds of the forest.

Oslo fjord, Norway

Before you head to Oslo, I recommend downloading the app Ruter on your phone for easy access on the public buses and trams. Norway is a magical country to visit. I didn’t raise my expectations for a sighting of the Northern Lights – best to consider a Northern Lights sighting as an added bonus and not go in search of them. The countryside is naturally so beautiful this time of year– snow laden trees in frozen landscapes. When the sun shone, it is extremely white all around from the snow’s brightness. Don’t forget to pack sunglasses as well as thermals, a hat and gloves.

Karen travelled to Oslo and Kongsberg in Norway to support Amber Fillary – twice Guinness World Record holder for Apnea Swimming.

When we think of Greece we imagine island life and blue, blue seas all around us – but did you know that Greece is the third most mountainous country in Europe? Having been to Greece several times in the past, I thought it was high time I made my way to the country’s spectacular verdant interior finishing the holiday off with a few days on a beach.

We landed at the small airport of Preveza and picked up a car for the duration of our trip. Roads throughout were excellent – a good mix of picturesque local streets, mountain tunnels and toll motorways. This wasn’t a boring monotonous drive at all!

Our first stop was the iconic Meteora – I was dying to see it for years! The word Meteora means literally 'hovering in the air'. 

What becomes quite obvious is that it is not only a man-made wonder but also that of nature – the rocks are totally unique for the area and look very different compared to other mountainous formations around them.

Without a doubt Meteora with its monasteries perched on the very top is one of the most spectacular places to visit in Greece and it is incredible to even imagine what human resources it must have taken to build them.

The area was originally settled by monks who lived in caves within the rocks during the 11th century. But as the times became more unsettled during an age of Turkish occupation, they climbed higher and higher up the rock surface until they were living on the inaccessible peaks.

They built these monasteries by bringing materials and people up with ladders and baskets. One of the monasteries we visited had carved stairs leading inside the rock with a door shutting intruders off – not dissimilar to a fortress!

The place is highly recommended for visiting, especially for pilgrims and people interested in religion - the atmosphere of each monastery is very special and peaceful. Make sure to wear respectable clothing, covering knees and shoulders. 

Our second stop was beautiful Tzoumerka national park, occupying an area of about 820 km2 and boasting mountainous complexes, the Arachthos River gorge and the springs of the Acheloos River.

The park is home to  a  lot  of  endemic  species  of  plants and rare & protected species of mammals such as the otter, deer, brown bear, the wild goat as well as about 145 species of birds. We had to stop our car a couple of times and let tortoises cross the road safely!  

The National Park also houses an enormous outdoor folklore museum of stone bridges, cultural monuments and traditional settlements – all working in unique harmony with beautiful landscapes, dramatic mountains, gorges and  caverns. 

Our main aim was to experience white water rafting down the Arachatos river gorge. What an enjoyable experience it was! You can hike along the river too but just floating down and enjoying the stunning sceneries all around us was our day activity of choice.

The river is quite tame in summer so no previous experience is needed, however if you desire more of an action-filled experience, come here in February or March when the water level is substantially higher.

Staying in the mountains was such a treat and a contrast to the coast – mornings and evenings were crisp and refreshing and we even experienced a little rain to cool us down.

This really is a unique part of Greece and I am so pleased we got to finally experience it. 

Maryna traveled to Greece in July 2021, give her a call to discuss your holiday

Header Image by Georger Tasios from Unsplash

I've been to over 120 countries, trying to visit at least 4 new countries every year and have ticked off nearly every corner of the globe.  However, there's been one country that's been on my wish list for over 30 years, from when I lived in Hong Kong back in the 80s. Back then it was only possible to visit Myanmar or Burma as it was then for a week and at that point, there were too many other easier and more accessible Asian countries I wanted to explore. Then followed a decade-long tourism boycott but the desire never went away. Finally this November I got to experience what is easily one for the most beautiful and untouched countries in Asia and set out to find out if Rudyard Kipling's famous quote "This is Burma and it will be quite unlike any land you know about" still held true. Myanmar is full of old empire opulence, grand pagodas, natural wonders and a predominantly Buddhist population renowned for its friendliness and hospitality, eager to share their ancient customs. There are a dozen or so absolute must-do highlights including The Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Mandalay, a cruise down the Irrawaddy, Bagan and it's temples and sparkling  Inle Lake. All of which I did and have no hesitation in recommending. However, I travelled with Experience Travel Group who create personalised, distinctive and experience-based holidays and therefore I also got to also discover a side of Myanmar that few tourists ever do, seeing the cultural highlights with a twist. Better facilities and infrastructure within the country means that it is easier now to visit more places. I also genuinely feel that one can visit the country and support hugely deserving individuals and private companies with minimal support to the military regime. 

Here are a few of my favourite places and experiences.

Petra posing by the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon (Rangoon)

The giant Shewedagon Pagoda is Myanmar's gold-plated showpiece and the most sacred Buddhist site in the country (Buddha's hair is said to be buried inside it). The brilliant, golden pagoda (the oldest in the world) standing close to 110m high and covered in gold leaf and 4,531 diamonds are visible from all over Yangon with sunset the perfect time to visit.   

On my visit the stupa glowed in warm orange light, the air was heavy with the scent of flowers and incense and the shuffling crowds flowed as one around the pagoda. I got to have my photo taken by one of the professional photographers that hang around the pagoda before joining devotees taking part in a lamp-lighting ceremony, where hundreds of oil lamps are lit each evening to bring good luck. A magical start to my visit. I'd been recommended to keep Shewdagon Pagoda to the end of my trip as once you've seen it, no other pagoda can possibly compare. However, patience not being my strongest virtue and itching to get up close, I was straight there on the first night. 

All smiles after taking a balloon trip over the temples in Bagan

Bagan, located on the east bank of the Irrawaddy River, is home to the largest and densest concentration of Buddhist temples, monuments and ruins in the world, over 2000 in total with many dating from the 11th and 12th centuries.   

Balloons over Bagan, a long standing hot air balloon operator, takes passengers in complete safety and comfort high above the region for 45 minutes. Seeing the thousands of ancient temples spreading across the plains, appearing through the mist as the sun rises is undoubtedly one of Myanmar's most impressive sites and not to be missed. The flights only operate in the dry season between October and March. Taking a balloon ride has long been top of my bucket list. I'd been saving up to do one on a milestone birthday, but no friends or family got the hint! On the Bagan balloon ride I really did feel as though I was in some kind of a dream - the gentle floating sensation, the views, the silence and then the thrilling landing, skimming the rice fields, waving at the farmers metres below us, before landing on a sandbank. Out of the blue a table is set up, champagne and eats materialise and no-one can stop smiling.  

Smiling local at Kyun Thiri island on a rural excursion

When in Bagan you should allow at least a couple of days to also walk, cycle, take a horse and cart or electric motorbike to explore the temples including the impressive temples of Ananda and  Dhammayangyi, the largest temple Shwezigon and the tallest Thatbyinnyu. However, when all the temples (not to mention the crowds) get all a bit too much Experience Travel Group offers a unique rural excursion to Kyun Thiri Island.  The 1,300 mile long Irrawaddy (navigable all the way from Yangon to Bhamo, near the Chinese border) is one of the world's most fabled rivers. To get to the island involved a short boat trip across the Irrawaddy before arriving at the island, just a rustic wooden jetty and a series of muddy steps up a bank before you arrive at the village. This is a totally authentic experience, you'll see no mass tourist boats, just yourself and a guide. I spent the morning with the people of the island, learning about their unique agricultural way of life and being blown away by the friendliness of the welcome and willingness to be photographed.   

A bullock cart on the trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake

Located in Myanmar's north-eastern Shan State, Kalaw is an old hill station with a welcome cooler climate. To fully appreciate the charms of rural Myanmar, I trekked over the rolling hills from Kalaw to nearby Inle Lake staying in monasteries, being lulled to sleep by chanting monks. With Lin Lin my guide, Tun Tun my porter and Nye Nye the cook we walked for five or six hours a day enjoying the bucolic landscape, reminiscent of Tuscany. We watched the farmers planting, tending and harvesting their crops, chillies, corn and rice. I got to help harvest the rice, holding the stems then cutting the crop with a sickle. I have to admit rather unsuccessfully but at least it caused endless merriment to the bemused ladies taking a break from their work. The women mostly wear traditional dress, turbans on their heads, folded like a towel for shade or wiping away sweat and then often with a bamboo hat on top. The men mostly wear football shirts! This isn't a challenging hard core hike, more of an interesting agricultural experience. However, the gentle pace, the pastoral landscapes, the fresh food bought and cooked for lunch and dinner, the lack of crowds (particularly any other westerners), the beaming smiles from everyone we encountered made this one of the most memorable treks I've ever done and the perfect digital detox.

Intha fisherman showing off his one legged rowing skills on Inle Lake

A photo of the Intha fisherman with their unusual one legged rowing technique, hooking a leg around a long oar to scull across glassy blue Inle Lake is perhaps Myanmar's most iconic image and used to sell the country worldwide. The best way to explore Inle Lake is on a day trip, slicing through the waters on a long tailed boat.  Tours include visits to fishing villages with their houses built on stilts and silk weaving and cheroot rolling industries. Stops are also made to watch blacksmiths and silversmiths at work and to see the floating market that moves between the area's villages on a five day rota. Inle Lake didn't disappoint and there were unmissable photo opportunities at every turn. I was also excited to hear that  Balloons over Bagan have  recently launched a ballooning experience over the Lake  and another extraordinary way to experience one of Myanmar's most scenic attractions.    Breakfast is taken next to one of the beautiful Shan villages wherever the balloon lands.

Getting off the beaten track, visiting a Kayan tribe village

Closed for over half a century and only recently opened to visitors, Kayah state is home to nine distinct ethnic groups, which diversified and evolved from Karen culture.  The biggest groups are the Kayah, Kayan, Bre, Lahta, and Yinbaw. Many tribes still practice their indigenous customs, handed down for centuries and dress in their traditional costumes including wearing heavy brass neck rings. Never one to miss a chance to dress up, I got to feel the weight of the brass rings by trying on just a couple.

Ngapali Beach

For those who follow me on social media will know how much of an aquaphile I am. There's nothing I like more than being by the water, on the water or more importantly in the water. No trip therefore would be complete without giving a rundown of a few of my favourite swimming pools and swimming spots. After touring Myanmar's main sites, laid back Ngapali Beach is the place to relax and enjoy a spectacular sunset from a practically empty palm fringed golden sand beach, untroubled by touts. Unlike some resorts in neighbouring Thailand, Ngapali is still relatively unspoilt with just a small number of beach front hotels. I stayed at Sandoway Resort and enjoyed the balmy blue waters of the Bay of Bengal, took a boat trip for a spot of snorkelling and visited the traditional fishing villages that line the coast.

Infinity pool heaven at Inle Lake View Resort and Spa

The Inle Lake View Resort and Spa is the only deluxe boutique hotel of international standard on the shores of Inle Lake with an infinity heated swimming pool with views out across the lake that got the big thumbs up from me. It was a super social pool as most guests are out and about during the day on excursions but happy to meet up in the pool or adjoining jacuzzi at the end of the day, to watch the sunset and swap tales of this magnificent country. 

To find out more about Myanmar visit https://www.tourismmyanmar.org/

Petra visited Myanmar in December 2019. If you would like to know more about this destination, don’t hesitate to give us a call or to send us an email.

Madagascar is a strong contender for offering the most distinctive wildlife holidays on the planet. The island separated from the African mainland some 165 million years ago and much of its fauna and flora have evolved in a unique way - an astonishing 80% is endemic. Madagascar’s almost bizarre array of wildlife echoes the 88 million years the island spent in isolation. Evolution got to work to produce some spectacular species and the island is now one of the most biodiverse regions in the world. It’s so unique that the country is sometimes called the eighth continent. The blog post below belongs to our guest writer and beloved client, Sarah Mortimer.

You’ve heard the one about an elephant making a trunk call..? Well, now I have seen lemurs in Madagascar in full talk-back mode!

Walking quietly through the rainforest of Andasibe National Park we and our tour guides were on the lookout for some of the island’s many indigenous species that make Madagascar such a treasure trove of flora and fauna: chameleons, birds, butterflies and any number (and, it seems no exact number established, such is the range of species and sub-species) of lemur.

The birds are beautiful, the chameleons extraordinary, the landscapes amazing… but my own particular quest was to see – and hear – the indri lemurs.

The biggest of the lemur family, with sticky-out ears, a rotund bottom with barely visible tail, these black and white animals look more like a teddy bear – and every bit as cute. But it is their ‘song’ that enchants me: a haunting wailing sound more akin to whale-song in its tuneful cry than a call of the canopy. But having heard their siren call from afar early that morning I was desperate to see these songsters.

Our guide located a small group of these characterful little beings, and I watched them with delight. Then, right there, miles away from urban life and so deep in the Madagascan (I love the ‘taste’ of that word – as much as the taste of their chocolate!) forest, 21st-century phone-tech came in to play.  Our guide took his mobile phone from his pocket, googled YouTube, and relayed a sound recording of an Indri group’s calls. In response to that recording, our own little troop raised their heads, opened their mouths, and sang their baleful siren song to claim loudly (actually, very loudly) that this patch was theirs! I was entranced by this concert performance, albeit prompted by a degree of manipulation – courtesy of Messrs Apple, Google, and YouTube. But our gang didn’t seem too perturbed: they simply rang out their peal of territorial calls.

So…maybe there IS an argument for phones in the forest – but for appropriate on-line connection only. Ocado is a step too far…

Sarah Mortimer visited Madagascar in October 2019. If you’d like to hear more about our trips to the African continent, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Galapagos Conservation Trust (GCT) is the only UK charity focussed solely on the conservation of one of the most unique and ecologically important, but vulnerable, areas in the world. With over 20 years of experience, they partner with Ecuadorian authorities, NGOs, local communities and leading researchers to support impactful science, conservation and education programmes across the Archipelago. The Galapagos Islands is a volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. It's considered one of the world's foremost destinations for wildlife-viewing. The incredible diversity of wildlife found in Galapagos is what makes this volcanic archipelago so very special. The Islands are situated at the meeting point of several large oceanic currents, giving them a truly unique array of habitats and an eclectic mix of wildlife.

Further to our partnership with GCT, we’re now helping in recommending this absolutely unique, edifying cruise trip. In June 2020, there will be running a bespoke Galapagos Conservation Trust (GCT) cruise, offering you the perfect way to see the Archipelago in a comfortable, intimate and sustainable manner, with a group of only 15 people.

Accompanied by a GCT staff member throughout the trip, you will have exclusive opportunities to visit projects funded and delivered by GCT. You will also meet passionate conservationists working on the Islands. What’s more, you can travel in the knowledge that your trip will be directly supporting the conservation and sustainability of the Archipelago.

Watch giant tortoises in the wild and meet the scientists working to protect them.

Swim and snorkel with beautiful reef fish, turtles, rays and endangered Galapagos penguins.

Breathtaking encounters with pink flamingos, blue-footed boobies, waved albatross, pelicans, sea lions, finches, terns and more.

Visit a world-leading restoration project on Floreana island. You will meet scientists working to restore the island and reintroduce locally extinct species, and of course calling at Floreana’s famous Post Office Bay.

Be thoroughly spoilt, with delicious food and attentive staff on board Beluga, a ‘Superior First Class’ motor yacht owned by Enchanted Expeditions, a respected Galapagos company.

Meet with conservationists working to protect Galapagos marine life, including endangered sharks and the magnificent whale shark.

Explore the historical city of Quito.

For pricing and detailed itineraries, you can simply get in touch and we’ll send you the complete guide.

If you are after a restful holiday in the Caribbean but also don’t want to feel like you are stranded on an island with nothing to do then Jamaica should be on the cards. It is the third largest island in the Caribbean and offers rich history as well as varied landscape.

Jamaica - rich in heritage & history

Being a larger island, it is ideal for twin centre holidays. What I liked most about Jamaica is its lush natural beauty. You get beautiful white sandy beaches, as well as dramatic cliffs of Negril and then within only a short drive into the interior you are surrounded by verdant hilly countryside with colourful local villages. Do not think that Jamaica is only about the beach, there are beautiful waterfalls, spectacular Blue Mountains, Appleton Estate rum distillery, a world famous Blue Mountain coffee plantation as well as world class snorkelling and diving.

Maryna by a rum shack

We started off our trip with a direct BA flight from Gatwick to Kingston. Upon arrival we picked up our car for a week and headed towards Ocho Rios, a port town on the north coast of Jamaica. A former fishing village, which is now a resort town with a busy bay beach lined with hotels. We have visited two properties whilst in Ocho Rios, Couples Tower Isle as well as Jamaica Inn. Couples Tower Isle is an all-inclusive adults-only resort and what we liked most is the intimate picturesque setting, friendly service and fresh good quality food. We also enjoyed the fact that almost all water sports and excursions were included in the package, even snorkelling boat trips and diving.

Sunset over Jamaican sea

Jamaica Inn needs no introduction as it often gets voted as one of the best hotels in the world. This luxurious boutique hotel has been second home to numerous celebrities as well as weary travellers, who come to completely unwind in the hotels peaceful and classy setting. We particularly liked their over the water suites and very private cottages with direct sea access. 

The surrounding parish of Saint Ann is home to rainforest, rivers and waterfalls with Dunn’s river waterfalls being the most famous. I have seen plenty of waterfalls during my travels but never did I see one falling directly into the sea. Why not reward yourself with a dip in the sea after climbing the waterfall?

Dunns River Falls, Jamaica

Our next stop was Montego Bay, the main tourist area of Jamaica boasting of world-class hotels and wide sandy beaches. Our main aim was visiting the Luminescent Lagoon in Falmouth about an hour away from MoBay. At night, the lagoon sparkles and glistens when disturbed, as microscopic organisms produce an eerie glow, reflecting the outlines of fish and other objects in the water. The Luminous Lagoon is said to be the largest and most brilliant of four in the world, a fact that continually attracts and awes visitors and scientists from around the world. 

Unfortunately, the glow wasn’t too strong when we went as it depends on many factors, like brightness of the sun during the day and presence of the moon, but we were told that it was much stronger the day before. I guess we will need to come again!

Typical Jamaican house.

After Montego Bay we continued on to Negril, or the Capital of Casual as it is known. Even with only one pair of shorts and two t-shirts you will never feel underdressed! When most people think of Jamaica they most probably have an image of Negril in their heads – a place that is relaxed, laid back and vibrant with reggae playing on the background. As opposed to Montego Bay, Negril is mostly about small family owned hotels and we stayed in one of those, a luxury boutique hotel called Sandy Haven. It is located on the famous 7 mile beach and what we liked is that we were located in the epicentre of the action yet the hotel itself felt like a peaceful refuge. The pool and the garden area felt like haven indeed combined with one of their delicious rum punches – we were told that the secret was mixing 7 different rums for each mile of the beach. Sandy Haven is an excellent choice for those who want to feel like they are actually in Jamaica and are not shy to have a friendly banter with local beach vendors selling coconuts, fruit and traditional patties. It is in a fantastic location for long beach walks and numerous local beach bars, why not stop in one of them for a drink of Red Stripe and a grilled lobster meal?

Room at Sandy Haven, Jamaica

After Negril we were heading back to Kingston with a stop at the Appleton Estate on route for the tour of the distillery and some rum tasting. The drive to the Appleton estate is very enjoyable and goes through beautiful countryside with quaint villages. The estate itself is beautiful and we enjoyed learning about its history and tasting different types of rum.

Three hours later we arrived at our final destination – Strawberry Hill Jamaica Luxury Hotel. With its cluster of cosy and private Post-Plantation cottages, vivid tropical gardens and Infinity swimming pool, the hotel without a doubt was a highlight of our trip. It is no wonder that Strawberry Hill was selected by The New York Times as one of the “1,000 Places To See Before You Die.” Strawberry Hill is steeped in history and its restaurant and the lounge area are full of interesting artefacts.

Strawberry Hill, Jamaica

If you fly to Kingston, I can definitely recommend staying a couple of night at the Strawberry Hill before flying back. Not only is the setting spectacular and peaceful but you will also have a chance to go for a hike in the Blue Mountains or visit the coffee plantation that produces the best coffee in the world. Or how about visiting a pretty historical Anglican chapel located 10 minutes walk from the hotel? You will pass a local school and will have a chance to experience a local way of life. 

We absolutely loved our holiday to Jamaica, filled with sunshine, smiling people the sound of steel drums and reggae music. Highly recommended!

Maryna travelled to Jamaica in October with Travel Matters. Do contact us if you’d like us to recommend and help you arrange a trip yourself.