A guest blog written for Travel Matters by Derek Moore, a founder of The Derek Moore Foundation

A few thoughts to take on board as you think about taking an exciting adventure holiday: 

Firstly, if you have any sense at all you will do as much research into who you book the holiday with as you will do on the potential destination. Adventure travel is exciting and addictive, but things can and do sometimes go wrong and you want to know that your holiday operator will look after you if things go wrong. Also, a reputable travel organiser will give you honest advice, rather than try to talk you into a trip that might not be exactly what you want. Pretty obviously, of course, this is where Travel Matters comes in! 

Villagers in Nepal building water-pipe to bring water to the village

When checking out the trip you have chosen, take the time to ensure that the activities you will experience sound as though they are authentic. On some trips the authenticity is staged. (I remember well an evening at a hotel in Greece where we were served an excellent evening meal by waiters casually dressed in jeans and tee-shirts, prior to an evening of Authentic Greek folk dancing. But where were the dancers? As soon as they had cleared away our plates all the waiter suddenly disappeared behind a screen, to emerge five minutes later in traditional Greek clothes, to perform to a tape recorder some traditional Greek dances with obligatory plate smashing). Make sure your itinerary doesn’t include staged authenticity. 

When you are on your trip, let’s say it’s a trekking trip through a mountainous region, be sure to look around you, really look, behind the wonderful views and the bustling markets. Are the people amongst whom you are walking, seemingly struggling, behind their smiles, to live a reasonable life, or do the houses, when you look carefully at them, suggest that the village is pretty much on the poverty line? If they do, make a mental note for when you get home. 

And when you are back home, reflect on what you have seen and ask yourself, have I just taken part in a one-way, or a t wo-way, experience? 

Well Project in Posoli, Nicaragua

All too often, visitors – particularly if visiting a remote region where life is clearly difficult – take part in a one-way experience, a one-way transaction. They visit a village, buy up food in the markets, take pictures of local people and then favour them with a smile before strolling on, and stay with families or in a small hotel, where they use up fuel for heating and water for washing without thinking where any of it came from. They take. Then they depart. They take, but they don’t think about giving something in exchange, about giving something back. Some travellers don’t even think about this need for a two-way transaction.

But some do. I remember one trekker saying, on getting back to the comforts of home, “Oh I had a fabulous time! It was all so fascinating! But oh – those poor people, they were so generous to us but really, they had nothing. If only there was a way to give something back to them!” 

Tree-planting in St James school in Kenya

Well, there is a way to give something back. The Derek Moore Foundation – set up by the one-time owner of adventure company Explore, who saw the need to be able to give something back - funds community Projects in small communities around the world. The sort of small communities that many travellers have passed through and have wanted to help. Projects such as supplying solar lighting to villages in Nepal, providing medical equipment to mid-wives working in the mountains of Guatemala, or supporting an agricultural Project in Costa Rica. These are just three of the 20 projects that the Foundation is currently supporting. 

And the Foundation needs your help – without funds it cannot give something back. The Foundation Projects are all small, the type of projects that bigger charities over-look or feel are too small to be bothered with. So donating, say the cost of an evening meal, can make quite a difference to these projects, which, as the Foundation says, are helping to change lives. 

And that’s what we mean by ‘giving something back’.

As Travel Matters comes to the end of 2020 and continues to operate into our third decade, I look at our vision and mission with a sense of renewed purpose. At the beginning of the year, I signed a declaration “Tourism Declares a Climate Emergency.” This commitment remains as true today as it did in January, despite this challenging year of global pandemic.

The Vision

We curate and sell bespoke holidays and experiences around the world. We have a responsibility to create memorable travel experiences in a world where local communities and our planet can co- exist and flourish. We are dedicated to show how travel, when done right, can impact the world in a positive manner and can break down barriers. We aim to help protect the destinations we send travellers to and endeavour to engage our clients, industry wide connections and employees through our Make Travel Matter campaign.

Travel Matters acknowledges that climate change is real and there is a climate emergency. We recognise we have to act now to address this crisis in our third decade of trading. We pledge to work with our suppliers by collaborating to help build a new, regenerative tourism industry that engages our clients.

The Mission

We are dedicated to show how travel, when done right, can impact the world in a positive manner using tourism as a force for good. We are passionate about travelling and aim to share how we care for our planet and people through our work.

How we operate a travel company & address our carbon footprint + reduction in the work place:
We use Ecotricity as our energy provider using 100% renewable energy.
Use energy efficient light bulbs and turn off electrical devices when not in use.

Minimise our water use.
We recycle.
We use our own re useable bottles.
We cycle and walk to work or take public transport.

We put a reminder in our email signatures.
Use FSC-certified or recycled paper in the office and replace direct marketing with e-marketing.
Use the Ecosia Web Browser.

We facilitate team meetings and external meetings via conference call at every possible opportunity to reduce the need for physical travel.

We operate a remote working policy where possible.

With our partners:

Develop our partnership with Jump, engaging travel companies to embrace sustainability.

Continue supporting the Travel Foundation, as part of their role in the Future for Tourism Coalition.

Plant trees for every holiday booked through our partnership with Trees for Cities.

Support Climate Perks, the scheme for employers who grant additional days to staff to enable them to travel on holiday overland, without ‘losing’ leave days for the travel time.

We encourage the offsetting of carbon emissions for flights through Flightnook, who have an online emissions calculator.

We choose carefully our specialist suppliers and partners, some as AITO members who share the values that we do and pledge to protect the environment, respect local cultures, traditions, religions and built heritage, benefit local communities – both economically and socially, conserve natural resources from office to destination and minimise pollution through noise, waste disposal and congestion.

We favour partnering with community-owned/managed lodges or hotels, where our clients can have a meaningful impact on the local community.

In our client’s journey and holiday planning experience:

We encourage clients to use the train to reach destinations instead of flying as well as booking car hire or trains to travel between destinations.

We provide information about which airlines and routes are most efficient.

We encourage travellers by advocating the pack for a purpose initiative – taking small essentials that help the local communities they visit.

We believe cultural immersion and experiencing a new way of life transforms the guest.

We provide tips and ideas of how to support programmes and organisations that are working to protect the welfare, culture and environment within the destinations.

We encourage the support of the local communities by buying local, eating local food and drinking local brands as well as supporting local traditional artisans for their locally made products. We want to help keep traditional crafts alive, while also supporting small, independent business owners and artists.

Our Tourism Declares a Climate Emergency Plan

As Travel Matters heads into its 3rd decade and develops as a company, we aim to keep sustainability and responsible tourism at the heart of our business model. We have a responsibility to promote sustainable travel where possible and help protect the destinations, landscapes and habitats our customers love to visit.

Through our communications on social media, blogs, interviews and our conversations with our clients, our Make Travel Matter campaign raises awareness of how tourism can and should have a positive impact, as well as highlighting the negative impact of the climate crisis. We promote ideas around conservation & regeneration as well as helping travellers consider how to give back in meaningful ways, ensuring local communities, destinations and the environment benefit.

We aim to encourage clients and partners to take measures to monitor and reduce carbon through the development of our Jump partnership; an engagement programme that boosts sustainability and wellbeing.

We continue to explore partnerships which complement and align with our values and offer services which support Tourism Declares a Climate Emergency. We agree with the principles of the Future for Tourism Coalition.

We will continue to advocate for system change in travel, particularly in aviation as we learn more about carbon levy proposals for frequent flyer programmes as we aim to create a low carbon future.

We commit to reviewing, monitoring and reducing our own carbon impacts, both personally and professionally. Our partnership with Trees for Cities will continue as we pledge to have a tree planted on each holiday sold.

We are committed to collaborate with the Tourism Declares community, through learning and sharing better practice collectively.

Images by:

Scott Evans @scottsweb on Unsplash

Andreea-Maria Juganaru @andreeajuganaru on Unsplash

This guest blog was written by Tricia Barnett, Director of Equality in Tourism.

Equality in Tourism believes tourism should be fairer for women. We are a charity working to put gender on the agenda of global tourism. We want women all over the world to enjoy equal benefits of tourism, because in general they don’t. It’s not at all unusual for women to be working at the in the least well paid jobs with little opportunities for training. For example, a housekeeper in an award winning eco hotel in a country like Sri Lanka or Kenya might just earn £1 a day. She also might be struggling with a split shift, which means she hardly gets to see her children. But there are all sorts of ways that women can benefit from tourism and it’s so normal to see women selling their handicrafts or opening their homes for visitors to stay. For many of these women, tourism has been empowering.

Women farmers in Tanzania

But there are also people who live in successful tourism destinations who live in a parallel universe and have no idea how they might benefit from the visitors who are in a separate bubble. Equality in Tourism has our own path breaking project in the Kilimanjaro region of Tanzania. So many people come to climb the iconic mountain, but all around are impoverished families living a subsistence life. Many of these are farmers, and in Tanzania as elsewhere in the world, it is women who are the farmers. 

Four years ago we began work with a local women’s empowerment organisation, KWIECO ww.kwieco.com 

to train the most marginalised farming women in better farming methods, farming as a business, entrepreneurship and women’s empowerment. The objective was to help them create a co-operative which would supply the many local hotels and lodges with quality fruit and vegetables. Before training, they competed with each other in the market place to sell their produce to dealers. Prices were very low. So low, that when we first began work with the women and started a microfinance scheme, some couldn’t even save 30 pence.

Our business plan showed that the co-operative, Wamboma: Women Farming for Their Future, would be self sufficient in three years. They opened a shop. But then climate change created floods and drought that destroyed three crops. We raised money and now they have industrial sized greenhouses, drip irrigation, tanks and pumps. 

We were back on our feet. Until Covid-19 closed all the hotels and tourism came to a halt. 

We have always operated on a shoestring. But now we are stuck. The women are back in the market place and not getting the cost of their labour back as they sell at low prices once again. Having saved brilliantly and made use of their loans to send their children to university or buy a sowing machine or improve their farms, they can no longer save. What is such an important asset though, is that they have, for the first time in their lives, food security. 

We have had to think on our feet and the women would like to be trained to dry their produce and – a very western suggestion – to create farm boxes. All of this needs investment for training and equipment and a website, so we need to fundraise again. 

The results have been life changing. We would love to take the learning and share it elsewhere where women farm and tourism is a key industry.

Tricia at a weekly meeting in Namwai

The women, who were the most marginalised in their communities, are now sought out for their advice. They are managing the shop and their savings and their production. They are working together. They are challenging their men to support them better and are being supported to fight against gender based violence that has been rampant. It is quite wonderful to hear from the women how the project has changed their lives. Before the pandemic, a big adventure operator was organising for their tours to come to the villages and meet the women and see what they’ve achieved and to buy their produce. 

One day, perhaps you will be able to as well. You would be very welcome. 

Tricia Barnett 

www.equalityintourism.org 

Director 

Equality in Tourism

We have been in touch with some of our favourite properties in the UK and are delighted to have secured some exciting complimentary add-ons exclusive to Travel Matters’ clients – from complimentary room upgrades, to complimentary use of an ice-skating rink, to some fizz on arrival. And the best thing of all - it costs the same as booking direct! Scroll down to see participating properties.
 
We also believe the best gift you can give is happy memories and time together and a getaway certainly ticks the boxes! Our Travel Matters gift voucher is perfect for someone special in your life and is available in the amounts of £75 or £150. Email us to purchase one.
 
We have pulled together a selection of our favourite hotels across the UK to bring you a variety of hotel choices. Choose your voucher amount and let the recipient book a hotel and date that suits them.
 
Whatever they choose, it's sure to delight!
 
And if they can’t decide, we at Travel Matters will be delighted to share our expertise and knowledge. We work with Belmond, Four Seasons, Alexandra Hotels, as well as small independent properties, all in beautiful locations and with outstanding facilities.
 
Dunalastair Hotel Suites

Whether you’re planning a relaxing break or looking for a chance to conquer the hills, mountains and lochs on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure holiday, there is no shortage of things to see, do and explore when you stay at Dunalastair Hotel Suites.
A popular destination for walking, cycling, shooting and fishing holidays in Scotland, the picturesque village of Kinloch Rannoch near Pitlochry is surrounded by extraordinary natural beauty spots, activity centres and unique visitor attractions.
Travel Matters’ clients receive:

• A room upgrade on arrival (subject to availability)

• Complimentary afternoon tea

The Lanesborough

Awarded No. 1 Hotel in London in the Travel + Leisure World's Best Awards, on the doorstep of Hyde Park, just a short walk from Harrods and Harvey Nichols the hotel is home to 93 luxurious suites and bedrooms, Michelin-starred Céleste restaurant, the vibrant Library Bar and Garden Room and the magnificent Lanesborough Club & Spa.
Travel Matters’ clients receive:

• Complimentary upgrade on check-in (subject to availability)

• Complimentary breakfast

• Bottle of Champagne on arrival

• £70 credit per room for F&B or Lanesborough Club & Spa

• Late Check out to 3pm

NoMad, Covent Garden London

What an exciting new opening! NoMad London is now accepting reservations for stays beginning 1 December 2020!
Travel Matters’ clients receive:

• Complimentary upgrade on check-in (subject to availability)

• Welcome amenity upon arrival

Farncombe Estate, The Cotswolds

Perched high above the village of Broadway lies Farncombe Estate – a glorious sprawl of forest and field, riddled with rambling trails and cycle routes and home to Dormy House, Foxhill Manor and The Fish.
Whether you’re looking to get the gang together for a getaway with a difference or enjoy a marvellous mini break with a loved one, this 400 acre playground is waiting for you.
Travel Matters’ clients receive:

• Complimentary upgrade on check-in (subject to availability)

• Glass of Champagne or gift on arrival

The Gallivant, Rye

The sand between your toes. Sky and beach as far as your eyes can see. Wonderful food made with love. Deeply comfortable beds. Beautiful rooms and a team that are here to make you smile. All these things in abundance.
Travel Matters’ clients receive:

• Welcome glass of English sparkling wine

Beaverbrook, Surrey

This firm family favourite of ours have joined forces with the Bear Grylls Survival Academy, as well other specialists, to offer a wide variety of indoor and outdoor activities designed to bring people closer together. From bushcraft and survival skills to teamwork challenges, we can help make your next corporate event one to remember.
Travel Matters’ clients receive:

• Complimentary ice-skating rink

• Bottle of ‘Beaverbrook Bubbles’ in room

• Complimentary mini bar

• Complimentary early check-in and late check out (subject to availability)

• Upgraded high-speed Wi-Fi

Gleneagles, Scotland

A charming country estate, a rural family adventure, a luxurious escape for friends, a cosy couples' retreat, a home from home – Gleneagles is a luxury 5 star hotel like no other.
Travel Matters’ clients receive:

• Complimentary upgrade on check-in (subject to availability)

• Complimentary breakfast

• Welcome hand-made Glen & Co chocolates

Great Fosters, Surrey

Great Fosters is an endlessly charming Tudor estate steeped in royal history and located just outside of Windsor in the heart of Surrey. Set in 50 acres of iconic gardens and grounds, complete with listed topiary mazes, a fountain, Saxon moat, Japanese bridge and even a sundial gifted to the Estate by Sir Francis Drake himself, the instantly recognisable red-brick facade and chimney tops of Great Fosters is a sight to behold indeed.

Travel Matters’ clients receive:

• Complimentary upgrade on check-in (subject to availability)

• Complimentary Full English Breakfast for two daily

• Bottle of champagne in room

• Early check-in/Late check-out (subject to availability)

• Complimentary Wi-Fi

Alexander House, West Sussex

Escape to the great British countryside and visit this Jacobean manor with 120 acres of beautiful gardens for you to explore. This extraordinary 5 Red Star hotel is the perfect destination for a romantic getaway, a relaxing spa experience, a grand celebration or an intimate gathering with the ones you love.

Travel Matters’ clients receive:

• Complimentary upgrade on check-in (subject to availability)

• Complimentary Full English Breakfast for two daily

• Bottle of champagne in room

• Early check-in/Late check-out (subject to availability)

• Complimentary Wi-Fi

Get in touch to book or purchase a voucher!

Tel: 0208 675 7878

Email: info@travelmatters.co.uk

The island of Corfu, or Kerkira how it is known in Greek is the northernmost of the Ionian islands. Being so close to the mainland the island is very verdant and fertile, with orange and olive groves covering large areas of the island. I also loved how rugged the shoreline was, with picturesque wild beaches hiding in pretty coves.

Beautiful beach in Southern Corfu

Being a mountainous island, Corfu has several stunning viewpoints with views stretching to the mainland Greece and neighbouring Albania. In fact, day boat trips to these two destinations are very popular along with an alternative of visiting Paxos and Antipaxos. The sea around these islands is stunning, the water is so turquoise that this stretch is often called Mediterranean Caribbean. It really is dreamy and numerous caves add even more to the experience. No wonder renting a boat is a very popular past time in Greece!

One of the main reasons why this island is so good for families is that it never gets too hot, even in summer the average temperature is 29-31 degrees – very comfortable compared to the southern islands. Having travelled in mid-September we were spoilt by hot and sunny weather but Corfu is excellent for spring breaks, too, when the hypnotising smell of orange blossoms fills the air. The average temperature in April is 20 degrees and is ideal for exploring Corfu old town. This UNESCO heritage site is the perfect example of Byzantine and Venetian architecture. Having travelled to Venice back in July, it was astonishing to see how similar the buildings looked! Corfu old town is built between two ancient fortresses and is resembling an open-air museum.

Lunch at a local taverna

Did you know that Prince Philip was born in Corfu and you can visit the historical Mon Repos palace where he spent his early days?
I highly recommend hiring a car or a quadbike and explore the island. I especially loved the unspoilt southern cost, covered in pine and olive trees – beach hopping there was the highlight of our trip and we particularly liked the secluded Rovinia beach.

Steps to Rovinia Beach

It is a bit of a hike down the hill, but totally worth it! Another trip highlight was stumbling on Halikounas lake full of flamingos!The Korission lagoon attracts thousands of flamingos every year and the best time for bird watching is between May and early October.

Halikounas lake

The hotel we chose as our base was MarBella Corfu, a very comfortable and popular family resort that is one of our best sellers in Corfu. The location is very scenic, overlooking the mainland and away from the hustle and bustle of busier parts of the island yet only 30 min away from Corfu town and the airport by local bus or a taxi. The resort offers several board basis options from Half Board to All inclusive. We went for Half board allowing us to have lunch in local taverns and enjoying buffet dinner at the hotel. We found the buffet to be really good, always with generous portions of Greek salad, good selection of grilled meats, fish and vegetarian dishes.

The menu was changing daily and we never got bored with the food choices available. All-inclusive clients have a chance to dine at the a la carte restaurants three times per week, as well as have other additional benefits, so upgrading is really worth it. 
Marbella Corfu boasts a blue flag beach and we loved the options of swimming off the pebble beach as well as diving right into the sea from the platforms. 

Beach at MarBella Corfu

Our Superior Seaview room was very comfortable and contemporary, with a balcony overlooking the sea. We really enjoyed our holiday to Corfu as it was a fantastic balance between relaxation and exploring. 

Give us a call on 0208 675 7878 to discuss your next holiday.

Maryna travelled to Corfu with her husband in September 2020

Venice needs no introduction, if you ask what the most famous city in the world is, I am sure it will come right at the top of the list.

As well-travelled as I am, I have never been to Venice before. One of the main reasons was over-tourism – Venice has been known to receive over 20 million tourists per year, particularly shocking considering its local population is only 55,000. But with the ban on cruise ships and diminished crowds post lockdown, I thought that there was no better time to go.

I don’t think all people realise that travelling to Venice is not just about the city alone, but also about the numerous islands scattered around it. Venice itself has a very unique geography and is sprawling over 118 submerged islands connected by over 400 bridges. Everything there is managed by waterways, from public transport to emergencies – we purchased a Vaporetto Pass during our stay. A Vaporetto is a form of public transport in Venice, like a bus or a tram in the UK. They have numbers as well as dedicated stops and a time table. With an outside seating area and fresh sea breeze, it is a far cry from the miserable commuting we are used to here.

A 24-hour Vaporetto Pass costs 20 Euros and this is such an enjoyable way to hop on and off whilst exploring the beautiful islands of the Venice lagoon. Alternatively, why not treat yourself and hire a private boat with a guide?

We visited three of the islands during our visit. Burano turned out to be our favourite, just so picturesque with its canals and colourful houses, it has a real fishing village feel and is famous for its lace-making. It takes about 45 minutes to reach it from Venice.

If you are looking for a trattoria to eat like a local, Burano is known for their seafood dishes, the most famous of which is the “risotto de gò”: the broth in which the rice is cooked is extracted from the “gò” a fish typical of the Venice lagoon.

Torcello is located only a few minutes away from Burano and is very rural and green in comparison and is a beautiful spot for lunch – if you haven’t been treating yourself already to some Risotto de go! We were particularly delighted with a carafe of locally produced Prosecco served from a tap!! ! Due to the density of buildings, Venice itself can’t boast of much greenery, which is why Torcello provides a very contrasting experience with its peacefulness, loud crickets and vineyards. The island is sparsely populated and provides an interesting glimpse into island living.

Tourists come to visit the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, with its Venetian-Byzantine mosaics and the views of nearby Burano from the bell tower, or to check out the Ponte del Diavolo, a bridge with no parapets, and the stone seat known as Trono di Attila. 

And lastly we visited Murano the island closest to Venice that has been famous for centuries for its glass making. 

When in Venice do not miss out on visiting these islands. If only we had more time to visit other nearby islands like Lido, where Venetians go for some beach time. 

We had a chance to experience two properties in Venice. We were beyond impressed with our stay at Aman Venice. Arguably the most exclusive hotel in Venice, this historic palazzo has the largest front garden overlooking the Grand Canal in the city and only 24 keys. The rooms are contemporary and very spacious with the most comfortable beds and a free minibar. With the limited number of rooms and a great number of common areas, one does feel like a valued guest of a Venetian prince. I can’t recommend it highly enough for the discrete yet attentive service, fabulous cuisine and the tranquil atmosphere. A very special property for special occasions!

The second property was the lovely Londra Palace overlooking the Lagoon. It is a member of the prestigious Relais and Chateaux group and a perfect option for those looking to stay in the very centre of the city – St Mark’s Square is literally around the corner and a Vaporetto stop is just in front of the hotel. The hotel is charming and intimate, each room unique due to original architecture but always comfortable and with beautiful views, be it the lagoon or the red roofs of the city. We loved our room with a balcony overlooking the lagoon!

For sure our trip to Venice was enjoyable, even more so with a chance to visit all these pretty islands. Can’t recommend it enough!

Call us on 0208 675 7878 to discuss your holiday to Venice!

Maryna travelled to Italy with her husband in July 2020

Africa specialist tour operators have come together to support African rangers & wildlife by embarking on a cumulative bike ride which is being kick-started with an initial Land’s End to John O’ Groats challenge starting at 9 am on 15th August 2020 where a core peloton of 10 people will be joined by 40+ others, all of whom are combining mileage working towards a 30,000KM total – the equivalent of circumnavigating Africa.

Ride 4 Rangers is an initiative by the UK Africa Travel Industry in aid of Tusk which will see the team ride the 874 miles from Land’s End to John O’ Groats and is inviting hundreds of fellow Africa Travel industry professionals, Africa and wildlife lovers to join them on the way. The ride is part of the wider Wildlife Ranger Challenge, launched to support thousands of wildlife rangers across the African continent to face the threats posed by the Covid-19 pandemic. Through the Wildlife Ranger Challenge, every pound donated to Ride 4 Rangers will be matched by the Scheinberg Relief Fund.

We miss our incredible opportunities to connect with nature and animals on an unbelievably intimate level. The African continent has been beyond generous to all its visitors over the past 150 years, hosting us and enchanting us each and every time. This time, it is our chance to give something in return and help support our beloved Wildlife Rangers.

Kenya’s number of elephants have more than doubled since 1989 thanks to a mission to stop poaching. All of these conservation efforts have had positive outcomes over time however, because of a decrease in the number of international tourism, the very animals we’ve been protecting for so long, are now at risk. This is our chance to make a difference and participate in a not only charitable activity, but also an experience that will benefit our mental and physical wellbeing. Cycling has countless proven benefits such as increased cardiovascular fitness, increased muscle strength and flexibility, improved joint mobility, decreased stress levels, improved posture and coordination.

Alongside the Land’s End to John O’Groats ride, 15th August also marks the start of a series of global Ride4Rangers events and activities where Africa and wildlife lovers across the UK, Europe and 9 African Nations (Kenya, Tanzania, Ethiopia, Uganda, Namibia, South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Mozambique) are getting involved clocking their own miles and raising vital funds.

The route will journey throughout the UK from Land’s End to John O’Groats via traditional LEJOG routes. For the full map visit:

 https://ridewithgps.com/routes/33296734 

Wondering how to get involved?

Visit www.ride4rangers.com

15 Aug–29 Aug Join all or part of the ride from Land’s End to John O’Groats

or

Do your own Ride 4 Rangers at home, in a park, around your garden 5, 10, 20, 50 KM

Ride 10KM, Donate £10, Nominate 3 People

or

Simply donate on our crowdfunding page

The path to change is a journey and lasting solutions take time. For over twenty years, we have been actively advancing holidays which have been pushing towards a more just, equitable, and sustainable future for all. We are now standing alongside a coalition of six leading organisations that have made their global mission to place destinations at the very centre of their recovery strategies. The Future of Tourism Coalition is a collaborative effort to chart a new, more sustainable direction for tourism and shift the status quo. The Coalition is comprised of six non-governmental organisations The Center for Responsible Travel (CREST), The Destination Stewardship Center, Green Destinations, Sustainable Travel International, Tourism Cares, The Travel Foundation.

The Future for Travel Coalition has will support the industry by providing the tools, guidance and collaboration to ensure a stronger path forward and encourage a diverse and inclusive set of signatories to sign on and share their perspectives and experiences to collectively work towards building a more sustainable way of exploring the world in a more conscious and responsible manner.

The Coalition has collaboratively developed and launched a set of Guiding Principles that outline a bold vision for tourism's path forward. The 13 principles provide a clear moral and business imperative for building a healthier tourism industry while protecting the places and people on which it depends.

The Coalition is calling upon tourism agencies, travel companies, governments, investors, non-governmental organisations, and destination communities to sign on to these Guiding Principles. By voicing our commitment, signatories agree to align their strategies and actions behind this transformative set of principles as we attempt to move forward from the COVID-19 pandemic. We can only make a positive change on a large scale if we act in unity and transparency.

If you feel like you as an individual or the organisation that you work for might be interested in pledging your support, you can become a signatory here.

Our world is being shaken. Writing personally, Covid 19 has given me the chance to reflect on my actions, goals and ambitions, questioning my individual place and role in society. Adding to the pandemic fear, there are the demonstrations and protests around the globe, speaking out against racial inequality with the Black Lives Matter Campaign. Both have impacted society in a great wave, fuelling a sense of social discomfort and pain.

As an owner of an established travel business, I've certainly wrestled with thoughts and unanswered questions about the future, especially the industry I only really know - travel & tourism. On the environmental impact, realising the stark reality of the negative impacts of tourism, I signed a declaration Tourism Declares a Climate Emergency at the start of 2020. Bitter sweet that a global pandemic has brought the travel and tourism industry to a virtual standstill, with lack of demand for airlines, cruise lines, hotels, railways, car rental companies, tour operators and travel agencies like Travel Matters, my business.

Travel Matters - established 21 years

On the social impact, I am reminded of the International Institute For Peace Through Tourism (IIPT) a not for profit organisation dedicated to fostering and facilitating tourism initiatives which contribute to international understanding and cooperation. A movement to preserve heritage, create poverty reduction and heal the wounds of conflict through initiatives to help bring about a peaceful and sustainable world.

As I see the world opening up again to the movement of people, I realise that I have my greatest opportunity to do things better. To use common sense, to be responsible and mindful when I travel, respecting the host communities I visit, remembering that it’s their environment, their destination I pass through, sensitive to the land & nature around me, enhancing my knowledge of other countries and cultures. This code of conduct and awareness should apply to how I live at home as well as when I travel. The Make Travel Matter campaign was created to help with those tips and ideas. It’s a campaign that I have wanted to share with everyone who knows me personally, as well as those who I have not met.  

Women heading off to pick tea

Early in 2020, Travel Matters partnered with Jump, the UK’s leading supplier of employee engagement programmes that drive sustainable behaviours within a range of industries. From corporate employers to university students, Jump has a proven record of 15.2 million positive actions recorded. By promoting Jump within the travel industry, we’d love to drive positive change across the entire sector. As part of our Make Travel Matter campaign, we’re actively encouraging other industry partners and travel companies to look at their impact, producing a chain effect in the travel sector. A focus on behavioural change is the main ambition of this initiative. The travel sector, pre covid 19 employed over 300 million people globally. As a result of the coronavirus pandemic, the global travel and tourism market is predicted to see a loss of over 100 million jobs worldwide in 2020 alone. It’s utterly devasting, however, I cannot give up hope.

Travel Matters partnership with Jump

What else can we do at Travel Matters? We’ll continue to engage with travellers who are keen to broaden their perspective, venture to new places, connect with new people, learn about different cultures and heritage as well as build international relationships. We know all too well that nothing changes the way you view your own life experience like seeing the way other people live. Your visit to a destination can provide an important source of income and sometimes the most important stream of revenue in many countries and regions around the world. Tourism creates many job opportunities and we can’t forget that.

In conclusion, despite the setbacks, doubts and fears, I’m persevering in my role within the travel industry as a business owner, keen to be a kind global citizen, eager to participate in IIPT’s vision of the travel and tourism industry – to become the world's first global peace industry; sharing the belief that every traveller is potentially an "Ambassador for Peace.”

Karen Simmonds is the owner of Travel Matters

The trip begins here. As I sit on a train which is travelling on the only track it can, I realise that my thoughts are freed from the tracks they are usually on a Thursday. Surely travelling away from your own direction of thought is one of the best escapes you can have? Another realisation is that I have everything I need for the next couple of days in my 40x25x20cm bag, or as close as my bag collection allows. Amazing how saving money can push us into accepting such strict criteria. If I were at work, I’d be calling the managers dictatorial and fascist but from a flight operative that’s willing to take me somewhere else for £25 less if I don’t pack a pair of shoes, I’ll take it.

From the airport, the train to Larvik travels through central Oslo. We decide to take this opportunity to break our journey. We start to list our limited knowledge of famous Norwegians; the scream painting by Edvard Munch, we’d enjoyed the light exhibitions at the Tate and National by Olafur Eliasson (no, just checked – he’s Danish/Icelandic), the Manchester United manager, Ole Gunnar Solskjaer...at this point a young man opposite intervened to confirm our limited knowledge. We asked what we should do with a couple of hours in Oslo and when he found out we were from London he became embarrassed and thought we would find Oslo very boring.

We did not. It was very charming. I liked the fact you could hear the hubbub of conversation in the street against a backdrop of tuneful church bells rather than the roar of traffic. The weather was glorious, blue skies and a sprinkling of snow and down at the waterfront the light was intensified by the reflection of the sun. It was good to experience this light as on our return through, Oslo was bathed in grey. Although cold outside, every indoor space we entered was warm (when have you ever been in a warm cathedral?) 

Traditional fare for lunch; meatballs, potatoes, mushy peas and lingonberry for me; dumplings, mutton sausage and swede for my husband. As heavy as you’d expect it to be but tasty.

Our first time together in a spa hotel and we found ourselves to be a tad uptight about the etiquette. We shower in our room without the prescription swimsuit on (a merciless brown affair for both sexes) then put it on followed by a brown bathrobe and sliders. We pick up our Turkish towels and step out into the corridor feeling slightly mortified as we walk through the hotel to the spa. 

We arrived quite late, 8:30ish with a closing time of 9 pm and fortunately find the outside jacuzzi lit by a flame lamp. We get in and the bubbles lift our bodies to the surface as the steam rises and we raise our eyes to the moon and relax. All too soon a young woman comes to put out the lamp and says the spa is closing. So off we wander keen to get a quick glimpse of the rest of the spa before it closes. My wandering is disturbed as I turn around to see my husband, dimly lit in the frame of a door, addressing the young woman between us in a tone of voice I associate with a naughty toddler being caught out.‘ Ahh, I’m all wet, sorry- err my dressing gown’. He had walked into the mineral cave, a warm but deep pool. The girl, itching to get home no doubt, graciously deals with the last irritating guests and I laugh and laugh, with no feelings of mortification, all the way back to the hotel room.

They sell romantic packages at the spa but I reckon we got the best romantic experience you can have; doing something stupid and then being able to laugh like drains about it. 

We head to the bar, laugh some more and order some beer, two ceviches, patatas bravas and a goats cheese salad. All fresh but slightly lacking in flavour. 

We spent a very comfortable night in our room, laying our heads on enormous pillows as our bodies melted into mattresses and our minds were lulled to sleep by the soft lapping of the waves.

In the morning we were treated to seeing the hotel in its glorious setting as the sun continued to shine. A view of the sea sparkled behind the reception, from the breakfast room and from a part of the spa that jutted over the sea: this comprised of a Finnish sauna, hot pool and ladders down into the fjord. We enjoyed the brilliant design of this as we heated up in the sauna staring out to sea, nipped outside down the ladder into the icy fjord, dashed back up the ladder, wobbly-legged into the hot pool, then legs tingling, back to the rest of the spa. We enjoyed the gentle experience of the herbal spa after the extremity of the fjord. 

The breakfast, in contrast to the bar food, was marvellous. A buffet of fruits and fruit shots, cinnamon soaked oats, delicious whole-grain loaves, charcuterie, cheese, smoked fish and eggs, salads, chilli, waffles- there was nothing you could want for. After a breakfast of endless choice (but why choose when you can eat it all?) we followed the coastal path past the arts centre and restaurants along wooden walkways, there were no barriers here either. You don’t realise things like fences are part of your culture until, as in yesterday evening, you walk off an edge into the water and realise you’ve been protected all your life. Cultural assumptions; it takes to travel to challenge them. 

Another day brings us pure joy as the clouds have drawn over Farris Bad and wash the landscape grey. This morning the sea was like glass reflecting the sky and bright sunshine. The gentle rhythmic sound of the waves continues though, calming and reassuring as it was during the night.

We head back to the spa. The variety is impressive, the standard high and the headcount acceptable. We revisited the mineral cave in a more conventional manner and enjoyed its mellow warmth. The central pool had several cascading spouts and underwater jets which alternated in pummelling your shoulders and limbs. I enjoyed a sauna event where 12 of us were led into a steam bath; eucalyptus oil was dashed on coals then wafted around us, we were then given some scrub which we rubbed in our bodies, followed by a cold hose. Invigorating as intended.

We found our spa experience stimulating, relaxing and restful. Likewise our experience of Norway. I’d definitely visit again reassured by the space, reliability of the services and gentleness of the people.

As we walked through the town, shopping centre and arts centre I see that I have spent all my life in public spaces jostling with other people. There is an infrastructure here that isn’t groaning under the pressure of masses of people. I feel comfortable. I am trusted to help myself to another coffee; an art gallery is opened just for us to look around despite the exhibition only opening tomorrow; I drink a beer in a comfortably worn but not grubby armchair, listening to music from a Bose speaker which seems under no threat of being ripped off the wall. I am not hassled but then neither am I challenged. I must say this suits my middle age as I feel I have spent my whole life being challenged by other peoples’ ideas, cultures and needs and it feels comfortable to be surrounded by what I know. However, the ethnic minorities here seem conspicuous by their otherness. I haven’t seen evidence of communities but have seen people working and drinking coffee. It’s as if integration hasn’t happened in this small town yet and I think about the UK’s history of immigration; established communities enriching our culture and the opportunities for talented people to flourish. I think about some of my Kurdish students who have relocated to the UK after a spell in Norway. 

Have decided I’d quite like to be a refugee in Norway when Brexit hits the UK hard. The student we spoke to on the train told us overseas students can study for free here...could be a plan...

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Our lovely guest writer, Rachael Farquhar, visited Oslo and Larvik last weekend.

If you’d like to organise a trip to Norway, and even check out Farris Bad for yourself, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

The travel industry has never been more scrutinised for its contribution to global warming. From Greta Thunberg sailing across the Atlantic to #flightshaming going viral on social media, we are increasingly aware of the impact of our carbon footprint on the planet. Transforming from eco-warrior to eco-tourist can allow you to explore the wonders of the world in a way that limits your damage to the environment – you just have to travel to the right places. 

Costa Rica is one of the world’s prime eco-tourism destinations. But what exactly do we mean by eco-tourism? The objective is to immerse travellers in nature, with the goal of educating and imparting environmental awareness. Eco-tourism unites conservation with local communities and wildlife, aiming to minimise a tourist’s impact. 

Costa Rica has the highest density of plant and animal species on Earth.  Though occupying just 0.3% of the planet’s landmass, it’s home to an astonishing 5% of the entire world’s biodiversity. Its tropical climate extends across extreme variations in altitude and covers countless ecosystems: the country has 20 life zones, 850 bird species, 237 mammal species, 1,260 tree species, 1,200 orchid species, and 361 reptile and amphibian species. Protecting these natural wonders remains high on the country’s agenda, and thankfully tourism hasn’t wavered in its commitment to conservation. 

Costa Rica’s push towards eco-tourism began with the establishment of the Cabo Blanco National Reserve in 1963, followed by the creation of its first official national parks in 1971. Today the Costa Rican park system includes 70 entities and protects over 3,221,000 acres. Coupled with numerous private reserves operated by non-profits and environmental groups, this means that 30% of national territory is allocated for conservation - one of the highest ratios in the world. 

And one of the best ways to practise eco-tourism is by staying in an eco-lodge. These abodes are intentionally isolated to allow travellers direct, uninterrupted access to nature. Many of Costa Rica’s first eco-lodges were sustainable long before sustainability became a buzzword. These eco-lodges operated in remote, off-the-grid locations that required them to optimise their efficiency and minimise their impact. They used solar and wind power because the area lacked electrical lines and grew their own food because there were no accessible supermarkets. They hired locals, the only workforce available, and became educators within the community, often training guides, receptionists and chefs. Costa Rica’s original eco-lodges paved the way for the eco-lodges of today. 

Last month I explored the incredibly rich and diverse region of Guanacaste. I flew into Liberia (direct flights from London Gatwick with TUI airlines) which is perfectly positioned for easy access to the beaches, volcanos and the cloud forest. Guanacaste also has 70% of the country’s biodiversity – so this is where you want to be. 

Having read stellar reviews, I booked my first few nights at Finca Luna Nueva eco-lodge. I was particularly drawn to the firm emphasis placed on farm-to-table cuisine and its claim to be a ‘living classroom’ concept – set on an organic herbal farm at the edge of a 200-square-kilometre conservation area of primary rainforest, only 16km from the iconic Arenal volcano. You do genuinely feel like you’re living a David Attenborough documentary, breakfasting on the freshest fruits, listening to the sound of howler monkeys, watching exotic hummingbirds and butterflies land on the most exquisite flowers, surrounded by birds of paradise, all types of iguanas – it was a true feast for the eyes and the senses. I went on the most sensational horse-riding tour around the volcano, followed by a dip in the solar-heated jacuzzi and natural spring-fed pool. 

After indulging in jungle paradise, I decided to move on to soak up some sun on the beach. Costa Rica’s beaches are some of the cleanest in the world, thanks to The Blue Flag Environmental Program. This is one of many initiatives that promote the pursuit of conservation and development consistent with the protection of natural resources, the implementation of actions to address climate change as well as those to improve the public health of the people of Costa Rica, or ‘Ticos’ as they’re locally known. The Blue Flag Environmental Program also has an annual awards ceremony – the winners’ list is a great resource when looking for the country’s top-rated eco-conscious accommodation. 

Playa Flamingo and Playa Conchal became firm favourites of mine with their wonderful beachside ‘sodas’ (local restaurants serving the freshest food) and pristine water. 

The hotel and estate Reserva Conchal really stood out for their commitment to sustainability. From meeting much of their energy needs through solar power to produce 45 tons of organic fertiliser monthly, they also run local initiatives such as Hortalizas Najui which seeks to empower local women through organic farming (“Hortalizas” are vegetables, and “Najui” is a Chorotega – tribal word - for women). These organic vegetables are sold to restaurants in their hotels, as well as to homeowners and visitors, and the remains are sold at the local farmer’s market.

On to Playa Flamingo, where I was lucky enough to stay at the dazzling 360 Flamingo. These luxury condos are set on the top of a cliff, with a saltwater infinity pool looking out onto the breath-taking panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean and Playa Flamingo. Although 360 Flamingo caters to the luxury eco-traveller, it creates the perfect balance of exclusivity without pretentiousness.  Their incredible Concierge service will help you find any eco-focused excursion you need - e.g. snorkelling on a sailboat powered by solar energy or a bespoke national parks tour. Always wanted to watch turtles hatching or take a photo of a humpback whale? If it’s the right season, they’ll make it happen. If you’re hungry just dial 0 to order from any nearby restaurant, and the Concierge will deliver it directly to your door. I was particularly impressed by the widespread use of compostable packaging and the lack of plastic in every restaurant – as I was with the emphasis placed on recycling, with rubbish bins on every corner, not just of the hotel, but of the town itself. 

Playa Flamingo is also famed for being electric transport-friendly. For only USD 50 for 24 hours, I was able to rent a cute little 4-seater buggy and charge up at many restaurants in Playa Flamingo and nearby Potrero.  Carry on 8km up the coast and you’ll find a solar and electric powered haven, Las Catalinas, completely pedestrianised and built in the style of an Amalfi coastal town. It is the epitome of an eco-conscious community: on Thursdays they hold local farmers’ markets and run a weekly litter-picking and recycling volunteer activity through community centre.  

The love the Ticos have for their country and its unique and exquisite natural beauty is completely infectious, and you feel inspired to help preserve it as they do.  It’s in everything they say and do. Say hello to a Tico in the street and you’ll be greeted in response, “Pura Vida”  - literally translated as ‘pure life’. And in Costa Rica, you really feel it is. 

Our lovely contributor, Amelia Stewart, visited Costa Rica at the beginning of January.

Check out what she’s been up to on her website.

If you’d like more tips on how to have a seamless, successful trip to Costa Rica, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

I've been to over 120 countries, trying to visit at least 4 new countries every year and have ticked off nearly every corner of the globe.  However, there's been one country that's been on my wish list for over 30 years, from when I lived in Hong Kong back in the 80s. Back then it was only possible to visit Myanmar or Burma as it was then for a week and at that point, there were too many other easier and more accessible Asian countries I wanted to explore. Then followed a decade-long tourism boycott but the desire never went away. Finally this November I got to experience what is easily one for the most beautiful and untouched countries in Asia and set out to find out if Rudyard Kipling's famous quote "This is Burma and it will be quite unlike any land you know about" still held true. Myanmar is full of old empire opulence, grand pagodas, natural wonders and a predominantly Buddhist population renowned for its friendliness and hospitality, eager to share their ancient customs. There are a dozen or so absolute must-do highlights including The Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Mandalay, a cruise down the Irrawaddy, Bagan and it's temples and sparkling  Inle Lake. All of which I did and have no hesitation in recommending. However, I travelled with Experience Travel Group who create personalised, distinctive and experience-based holidays and therefore I also got to also discover a side of Myanmar that few tourists ever do, seeing the cultural highlights with a twist. Better facilities and infrastructure within the country means that it is easier now to visit more places. I also genuinely feel that one can visit the country and support hugely deserving individuals and private companies with minimal support to the military regime. 

Here are a few of my favourite places and experiences.

Petra posing by the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon (Rangoon)

The giant Shewedagon Pagoda is Myanmar's gold-plated showpiece and the most sacred Buddhist site in the country (Buddha's hair is said to be buried inside it). The brilliant, golden pagoda (the oldest in the world) standing close to 110m high and covered in gold leaf and 4,531 diamonds are visible from all over Yangon with sunset the perfect time to visit.   

On my visit the stupa glowed in warm orange light, the air was heavy with the scent of flowers and incense and the shuffling crowds flowed as one around the pagoda. I got to have my photo taken by one of the professional photographers that hang around the pagoda before joining devotees taking part in a lamp-lighting ceremony, where hundreds of oil lamps are lit each evening to bring good luck. A magical start to my visit. I'd been recommended to keep Shewdagon Pagoda to the end of my trip as once you've seen it, no other pagoda can possibly compare. However, patience not being my strongest virtue and itching to get up close, I was straight there on the first night. 

All smiles after taking a balloon trip over the temples in Bagan

Bagan, located on the east bank of the Irrawaddy River, is home to the largest and densest concentration of Buddhist temples, monuments and ruins in the world, over 2000 in total with many dating from the 11th and 12th centuries.   

Balloons over Bagan, a long standing hot air balloon operator, takes passengers in complete safety and comfort high above the region for 45 minutes. Seeing the thousands of ancient temples spreading across the plains, appearing through the mist as the sun rises is undoubtedly one of Myanmar's most impressive sites and not to be missed. The flights only operate in the dry season between October and March. Taking a balloon ride has long been top of my bucket list. I'd been saving up to do one on a milestone birthday, but no friends or family got the hint! On the Bagan balloon ride I really did feel as though I was in some kind of a dream - the gentle floating sensation, the views, the silence and then the thrilling landing, skimming the rice fields, waving at the farmers metres below us, before landing on a sandbank. Out of the blue a table is set up, champagne and eats materialise and no-one can stop smiling.  

Smiling local at Kyun Thiri island on a rural excursion

When in Bagan you should allow at least a couple of days to also walk, cycle, take a horse and cart or electric motorbike to explore the temples including the impressive temples of Ananda and  Dhammayangyi, the largest temple Shwezigon and the tallest Thatbyinnyu. However, when all the temples (not to mention the crowds) get all a bit too much Experience Travel Group offers a unique rural excursion to Kyun Thiri Island.  The 1,300 mile long Irrawaddy (navigable all the way from Yangon to Bhamo, near the Chinese border) is one of the world's most fabled rivers. To get to the island involved a short boat trip across the Irrawaddy before arriving at the island, just a rustic wooden jetty and a series of muddy steps up a bank before you arrive at the village. This is a totally authentic experience, you'll see no mass tourist boats, just yourself and a guide. I spent the morning with the people of the island, learning about their unique agricultural way of life and being blown away by the friendliness of the welcome and willingness to be photographed.   

A bullock cart on the trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake

Located in Myanmar's north-eastern Shan State, Kalaw is an old hill station with a welcome cooler climate. To fully appreciate the charms of rural Myanmar, I trekked over the rolling hills from Kalaw to nearby Inle Lake staying in monasteries, being lulled to sleep by chanting monks. With Lin Lin my guide, Tun Tun my porter and Nye Nye the cook we walked for five or six hours a day enjoying the bucolic landscape, reminiscent of Tuscany. We watched the farmers planting, tending and harvesting their crops, chillies, corn and rice. I got to help harvest the rice, holding the stems then cutting the crop with a sickle. I have to admit rather unsuccessfully but at least it caused endless merriment to the bemused ladies taking a break from their work. The women mostly wear traditional dress, turbans on their heads, folded like a towel for shade or wiping away sweat and then often with a bamboo hat on top. The men mostly wear football shirts! This isn't a challenging hard core hike, more of an interesting agricultural experience. However, the gentle pace, the pastoral landscapes, the fresh food bought and cooked for lunch and dinner, the lack of crowds (particularly any other westerners), the beaming smiles from everyone we encountered made this one of the most memorable treks I've ever done and the perfect digital detox.

Intha fisherman showing off his one legged rowing skills on Inle Lake

A photo of the Intha fisherman with their unusual one legged rowing technique, hooking a leg around a long oar to scull across glassy blue Inle Lake is perhaps Myanmar's most iconic image and used to sell the country worldwide. The best way to explore Inle Lake is on a day trip, slicing through the waters on a long tailed boat.  Tours include visits to fishing villages with their houses built on stilts and silk weaving and cheroot rolling industries. Stops are also made to watch blacksmiths and silversmiths at work and to see the floating market that moves between the area's villages on a five day rota. Inle Lake didn't disappoint and there were unmissable photo opportunities at every turn. I was also excited to hear that  Balloons over Bagan have  recently launched a ballooning experience over the Lake  and another extraordinary way to experience one of Myanmar's most scenic attractions.    Breakfast is taken next to one of the beautiful Shan villages wherever the balloon lands.

Getting off the beaten track, visiting a Kayan tribe village

Closed for over half a century and only recently opened to visitors, Kayah state is home to nine distinct ethnic groups, which diversified and evolved from Karen culture.  The biggest groups are the Kayah, Kayan, Bre, Lahta, and Yinbaw. Many tribes still practice their indigenous customs, handed down for centuries and dress in their traditional costumes including wearing heavy brass neck rings. Never one to miss a chance to dress up, I got to feel the weight of the brass rings by trying on just a couple.

Ngapali Beach

For those who follow me on social media will know how much of an aquaphile I am. There's nothing I like more than being by the water, on the water or more importantly in the water. No trip therefore would be complete without giving a rundown of a few of my favourite swimming pools and swimming spots. After touring Myanmar's main sites, laid back Ngapali Beach is the place to relax and enjoy a spectacular sunset from a practically empty palm fringed golden sand beach, untroubled by touts. Unlike some resorts in neighbouring Thailand, Ngapali is still relatively unspoilt with just a small number of beach front hotels. I stayed at Sandoway Resort and enjoyed the balmy blue waters of the Bay of Bengal, took a boat trip for a spot of snorkelling and visited the traditional fishing villages that line the coast.

Infinity pool heaven at Inle Lake View Resort and Spa

The Inle Lake View Resort and Spa is the only deluxe boutique hotel of international standard on the shores of Inle Lake with an infinity heated swimming pool with views out across the lake that got the big thumbs up from me. It was a super social pool as most guests are out and about during the day on excursions but happy to meet up in the pool or adjoining jacuzzi at the end of the day, to watch the sunset and swap tales of this magnificent country. 

To find out more about Myanmar visit https://www.tourismmyanmar.org/

Petra visited Myanmar in December 2019. If you would like to know more about this destination, don’t hesitate to give us a call or to send us an email.

Planning a holiday has never been easier. But what does that mean for local communities, wildlife and the environment?

Being a traveller in the modern world involves certain responsibilities as one is an active part of the largest industry in the world. For far too long people have been focusing solely on the beneficial aspects that tourism can provide. It’s time that we kickstart a conversation and raise awareness around the potential negative impacts of this beautiful industry and how travellers can play their part in fixing its current issues.

1. Transport. The most essential aspect of a trip is transport.

Although a great number of holidays take place at very large distances from home, it is understandable that sometimes one cannot escape the burden of leaving a big amount of CO2 emissions behind but there are many ways of reducing some of the harm produced. One might be to take fewer but longer holidays rather than numerous short ones. Another method could be to donate money to charities or organisations such as Trees for Cities or World Land Trust in order to offset some of the CO2 produced. You can also check Flightnook for more information on how to lower your travel pollution. However, when possible, opt for a train journey. Think of all the benefits of allowing yourself time to enjoy a scenic train journey through the Alps or through the West coast of Scotland.

2. Choose a sustainable travel destination. We understand that it isn’t always easy to be a responsible traveller when the system in the country you’ve decided to visit doesn’t allow you to be one. Why not reverse the situation in your favour, as well as Mother Nature’s, and choose to visit a country based on how environmentally friendly their internal system is.

Destinations such as Costa Rica, Belize and Slovenia are only a few worth mentioning in their fight against unsustainable tourism. More and more countries are developing initiatives to slowly but surely become a guilt-free option in the modern traveller’s mind.

3. Potential positive outcomes that don’t always go to plan. The industry could bring a lot of money to the country, however, it often ends up in the pockets of massive corporations. Think and act local and support small independent businesses. Jobs might be created to satisfy the market’s demand. However, jobs could be seasonal which makes the local community’s life harder during the offseason. New facilities which are built for tourists are used by the locals too but it can lead to overpopulation, traffic jams and discomfort for the nearby wildlife. Consider travelling outside peak season to ensure equality across the board.

4. Give to the right cause, the right way. A large number of very well-intended travellers bring sweets, used clothes and various other items to be handed out to the villagers or kids in developing nations. Although it can feel right at the time, please do avoid doing so. It can cause conflict between the members of the community and encourage a culture of dependency.

There are numerous registered local charities and organisations with whom you can work alongside or donate money instead. A couple that we can recommend are Child Fund or Pack for a Purpose.

5. Say no to plastic! It’s a mindset that everybody will have to attain one way or another. Plastic really does take roughly 500 years to decompose. It’s a ridiculous amount of time to wait for it to disappear, especially when more than 50% of the entire plastic ever produced was simply discarded.

Opt for locally sourced water in glass bottles (or just a coconut!) and make the conscious effort to bring a tote bag when you’re out shopping for souvenirs or food. You can dramatically reduce single plastic use by rewiring a couple of patterns in your behaviour.

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If you have any more questions or are simply curious as to what steps you can make towards becoming a more conscious traveller, please don’t hesitate to drop us an email.

Photos by:

Noah Buscher on Unsplash

Balazs Busznyak on Unsplash

Larm Rmah on Unsplash

Madagascar is a strong contender for offering the most distinctive wildlife holidays on the planet. The island separated from the African mainland some 165 million years ago and much of its fauna and flora have evolved in a unique way - an astonishing 80% is endemic. Madagascar’s almost bizarre array of wildlife echoes the 88 million years the island spent in isolation. Evolution got to work to produce some spectacular species and the island is now one of the most biodiverse regions in the world. It’s so unique that the country is sometimes called the eighth continent. The blog post below belongs to our guest writer and beloved client, Sarah Mortimer.

You’ve heard the one about an elephant making a trunk call..? Well, now I have seen lemurs in Madagascar in full talk-back mode!

Walking quietly through the rainforest of Andasibe National Park we and our tour guides were on the lookout for some of the island’s many indigenous species that make Madagascar such a treasure trove of flora and fauna: chameleons, birds, butterflies and any number (and, it seems no exact number established, such is the range of species and sub-species) of lemur.

The birds are beautiful, the chameleons extraordinary, the landscapes amazing… but my own particular quest was to see – and hear – the indri lemurs.

The biggest of the lemur family, with sticky-out ears, a rotund bottom with barely visible tail, these black and white animals look more like a teddy bear – and every bit as cute. But it is their ‘song’ that enchants me: a haunting wailing sound more akin to whale-song in its tuneful cry than a call of the canopy. But having heard their siren call from afar early that morning I was desperate to see these songsters.

Our guide located a small group of these characterful little beings, and I watched them with delight. Then, right there, miles away from urban life and so deep in the Madagascan (I love the ‘taste’ of that word – as much as the taste of their chocolate!) forest, 21st-century phone-tech came in to play.  Our guide took his mobile phone from his pocket, googled YouTube, and relayed a sound recording of an Indri group’s calls. In response to that recording, our own little troop raised their heads, opened their mouths, and sang their baleful siren song to claim loudly (actually, very loudly) that this patch was theirs! I was entranced by this concert performance, albeit prompted by a degree of manipulation – courtesy of Messrs Apple, Google, and YouTube. But our gang didn’t seem too perturbed: they simply rang out their peal of territorial calls.

So…maybe there IS an argument for phones in the forest – but for appropriate on-line connection only. Ocado is a step too far…

Sarah Mortimer visited Madagascar in October 2019. If you’d like to hear more about our trips to the African continent, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Galapagos Conservation Trust (GCT) is the only UK charity focussed solely on the conservation of one of the most unique and ecologically important, but vulnerable, areas in the world. With over 20 years of experience, they partner with Ecuadorian authorities, NGOs, local communities and leading researchers to support impactful science, conservation and education programmes across the Archipelago. The Galapagos Islands is a volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. It's considered one of the world's foremost destinations for wildlife-viewing. The incredible diversity of wildlife found in Galapagos is what makes this volcanic archipelago so very special. The Islands are situated at the meeting point of several large oceanic currents, giving them a truly unique array of habitats and an eclectic mix of wildlife.

Further to our partnership with GCT, we’re now helping in recommending this absolutely unique, edifying cruise trip. In June 2020, there will be running a bespoke Galapagos Conservation Trust (GCT) cruise, offering you the perfect way to see the Archipelago in a comfortable, intimate and sustainable manner, with a group of only 15 people.

Accompanied by a GCT staff member throughout the trip, you will have exclusive opportunities to visit projects funded and delivered by GCT. You will also meet passionate conservationists working on the Islands. What’s more, you can travel in the knowledge that your trip will be directly supporting the conservation and sustainability of the Archipelago.

Watch giant tortoises in the wild and meet the scientists working to protect them.

Swim and snorkel with beautiful reef fish, turtles, rays and endangered Galapagos penguins.

Breathtaking encounters with pink flamingos, blue-footed boobies, waved albatross, pelicans, sea lions, finches, terns and more.

Visit a world-leading restoration project on Floreana island. You will meet scientists working to restore the island and reintroduce locally extinct species, and of course calling at Floreana’s famous Post Office Bay.

Be thoroughly spoilt, with delicious food and attentive staff on board Beluga, a ‘Superior First Class’ motor yacht owned by Enchanted Expeditions, a respected Galapagos company.

Meet with conservationists working to protect Galapagos marine life, including endangered sharks and the magnificent whale shark.

Explore the historical city of Quito.

For pricing and detailed itineraries, you can simply get in touch and we’ll send you the complete guide.

The concept of forest bathing originated in Japan around the 1980s. It is a practice believed to bring numerous physical and mental benefits. Lead researcher and expert in the field, Dr. Yoshifumi Miyazaki, stated that for 99,9% of the existence of humans, we’ve lived in natural environments and only during the later 0,1% we’ve lived in urban environments.  There are several claims over the title of the first-ever city in the world, however, it was only founded roughly 11,000 years ago and therefore in the scheme of things, humans have barely experienced urban life and some, if not the majority of us, simply haven’t had enough time to adjust to the lifestyle of it.

Forest bathing is a traditional Japanese practice of immersing oneself in nature by mindfully using all five senses. During the 1980s, forest bathing had surfaced as a crucial component of preventive healing and health care in Japan. The reported studies have shown direct associations between this type of practice and its healing properties with strong focuses on:

(1) the immune system function (increase in natural killer cells/cancer prevention);

(2) cardiovascular system (hypertension/coronary artery disease);

(3) the respiratory system (allergies and respiratory disease);

(4) depression and anxiety (mood disorders and stress);

(5) mental relaxation (Attention-Deficit/Hyperactivity Disorder);

(6) human feelings of “awe” (increase in gratitude and selflessness);

An educated mind is a healthy mind. We cannot longer deny all the positive effects that spending time in nature has over our bodies.

Unlike other types of medicine or healing methods, forest bathing doesn’t involve a series of rigorous methodical actions all to be accomplished in a solitary manner. Activities such as cycling, hiking, forest ranger adventures, added luxuries, etc. are in fact encouraged if one decides to dedicate a whole day or even an entire week to nature bathing. However, once every now and then, it is indeed recommended that one simply takes some time for oneself to get immersed in the natural world, feeling completely disconnected from the rest of the world.

As humans, psychologically and spiritually speaking, we intuitively understand the soothing, relaxing and “awe” feelings of being in or viewing plants, flowers, forests, urban green spaces and parks. Why not give our bodies what they need by spending more time outdoors? Especially during the cold season, our mental and physical wellbeing requires at least 20 minutes a day spent in natural environments. Go out there and enjoy the peace and quiet.

Useful links for further research:

https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/environment-and-conservation/2019/10/what-forest-bathing-and-how-does-it-help

https://www.webmd.com/balance/news/20190611/forest-bathing-nature-time-hot-health-advice

https://time.com/5259602/japanese-forest-bathing/

https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/325060.php#1

If you’d like some personal recommendations for UK based or even international locations, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Photos by:

Gustav Gullstrand on Unsplash

If you are after a restful holiday in the Caribbean but also don’t want to feel like you are stranded on an island with nothing to do then Jamaica should be on the cards. It is the third largest island in the Caribbean and offers rich history as well as varied landscape.

Jamaica - rich in heritage & history

Being a larger island, it is ideal for twin centre holidays. What I liked most about Jamaica is its lush natural beauty. You get beautiful white sandy beaches, as well as dramatic cliffs of Negril and then within only a short drive into the interior you are surrounded by verdant hilly countryside with colourful local villages. Do not think that Jamaica is only about the beach, there are beautiful waterfalls, spectacular Blue Mountains, Appleton Estate rum distillery, a world famous Blue Mountain coffee plantation as well as world class snorkelling and diving.

Maryna by a rum shack

We started off our trip with a direct BA flight from Gatwick to Kingston. Upon arrival we picked up our car for a week and headed towards Ocho Rios, a port town on the north coast of Jamaica. A former fishing village, which is now a resort town with a busy bay beach lined with hotels. We have visited two properties whilst in Ocho Rios, Couples Tower Isle as well as Jamaica Inn. Couples Tower Isle is an all-inclusive adults-only resort and what we liked most is the intimate picturesque setting, friendly service and fresh good quality food. We also enjoyed the fact that almost all water sports and excursions were included in the package, even snorkelling boat trips and diving.

Sunset over Jamaican sea

Jamaica Inn needs no introduction as it often gets voted as one of the best hotels in the world. This luxurious boutique hotel has been second home to numerous celebrities as well as weary travellers, who come to completely unwind in the hotels peaceful and classy setting. We particularly liked their over the water suites and very private cottages with direct sea access. 

The surrounding parish of Saint Ann is home to rainforest, rivers and waterfalls with Dunn’s river waterfalls being the most famous. I have seen plenty of waterfalls during my travels but never did I see one falling directly into the sea. Why not reward yourself with a dip in the sea after climbing the waterfall?

Dunns River Falls, Jamaica

Our next stop was Montego Bay, the main tourist area of Jamaica boasting of world-class hotels and wide sandy beaches. Our main aim was visiting the Luminescent Lagoon in Falmouth about an hour away from MoBay. At night, the lagoon sparkles and glistens when disturbed, as microscopic organisms produce an eerie glow, reflecting the outlines of fish and other objects in the water. The Luminous Lagoon is said to be the largest and most brilliant of four in the world, a fact that continually attracts and awes visitors and scientists from around the world. 

Unfortunately, the glow wasn’t too strong when we went as it depends on many factors, like brightness of the sun during the day and presence of the moon, but we were told that it was much stronger the day before. I guess we will need to come again!

Typical Jamaican house.

After Montego Bay we continued on to Negril, or the Capital of Casual as it is known. Even with only one pair of shorts and two t-shirts you will never feel underdressed! When most people think of Jamaica they most probably have an image of Negril in their heads – a place that is relaxed, laid back and vibrant with reggae playing on the background. As opposed to Montego Bay, Negril is mostly about small family owned hotels and we stayed in one of those, a luxury boutique hotel called Sandy Haven. It is located on the famous 7 mile beach and what we liked is that we were located in the epicentre of the action yet the hotel itself felt like a peaceful refuge. The pool and the garden area felt like haven indeed combined with one of their delicious rum punches – we were told that the secret was mixing 7 different rums for each mile of the beach. Sandy Haven is an excellent choice for those who want to feel like they are actually in Jamaica and are not shy to have a friendly banter with local beach vendors selling coconuts, fruit and traditional patties. It is in a fantastic location for long beach walks and numerous local beach bars, why not stop in one of them for a drink of Red Stripe and a grilled lobster meal?

Room at Sandy Haven, Jamaica

After Negril we were heading back to Kingston with a stop at the Appleton Estate on route for the tour of the distillery and some rum tasting. The drive to the Appleton estate is very enjoyable and goes through beautiful countryside with quaint villages. The estate itself is beautiful and we enjoyed learning about its history and tasting different types of rum.

Three hours later we arrived at our final destination – Strawberry Hill Jamaica Luxury Hotel. With its cluster of cosy and private Post-Plantation cottages, vivid tropical gardens and Infinity swimming pool, the hotel without a doubt was a highlight of our trip. It is no wonder that Strawberry Hill was selected by The New York Times as one of the “1,000 Places To See Before You Die.” Strawberry Hill is steeped in history and its restaurant and the lounge area are full of interesting artefacts.

Strawberry Hill, Jamaica

If you fly to Kingston, I can definitely recommend staying a couple of night at the Strawberry Hill before flying back. Not only is the setting spectacular and peaceful but you will also have a chance to go for a hike in the Blue Mountains or visit the coffee plantation that produces the best coffee in the world. Or how about visiting a pretty historical Anglican chapel located 10 minutes walk from the hotel? You will pass a local school and will have a chance to experience a local way of life. 

We absolutely loved our holiday to Jamaica, filled with sunshine, smiling people the sound of steel drums and reggae music. Highly recommended!

Maryna travelled to Jamaica in October with Travel Matters. Do contact us if you’d like us to recommend and help you arrange a trip yourself.

The taxi delivered us to the Nairobi Air Safari terminal in early morning darkness. A smiling, sweaty, beanie clad face greeted us, the Manager unlocking the terminal door. Welcome to Kenya where the locals run to and from work. We boarded our flight out to the Mara, with a full view of the cockpit and pilots. The vista was beautiful, glimpses of open plains, mountains, local villages and herds of antelope. We were headed for Karen Blixen Camp, one of the oldest lodges in the Mara North Conservancy. The plane touched down on the red earth and we were greeted by Daniel, our driver and guide. It was a short but breathtaking 30 min trip back to the Lodge; we saw antelopes, giraffes, zebra, baboons, topi, and eagles all within this short drive. Daniel as we were soon to learn was very patient and wonderfully knowledgeable.

Arrival at Mara North airstrip.

After a warm welcome we were shown around the Karen Blixen Camp. It has a prime location on a curve in the Mara River with a large, extended family of hippos living opposite, the noise of this happy family echoes throughout the lodge. You can spend hours sitting in the garden (with a glass of wine) happily viewing the hippos, along with giraffe and elephant families as they come down to the water to drink. One evening while warming ourselves by the outdoor fire-pit, we watched a lioness wander along the riverbank in the moonlight, occasionally stopping to drink. There is an overwhelming sense of wonder at the wildlife that surrounds and occasionally enters the camp, a reminder that this is their home and we are only visitors. One night we were woken by the sound of zebra hooves on our veranda and the security team safely driving them away.

Our accommodation at Karen Blixen Camp.

The Lodge is beautiful, made from local wood and a thatched roof, while our raised tent was a step back in time but with all the comforts of home, there is a large bathroom and gorgeous outdoor shower where birdlife watch you bathe. The covered, wooden veranda with day-bed looks out upon the river rapids entirely surrounded by native bush. You can watch the crocodiles sunbathing on the opposite side of the river. The tent is reminiscent of “Out of Africa” the famous novel Karen Blixen penned. The lodge has a lovely swimming pool, surrounded by trees and flowers and a day spa. We left our massage relaxed and smelling of native oils. The food and drink at Karen Blixen is wonderful, breakfast is provided on return from the morning safari and there is the opportunity to sample local Kenyan dishes. The camp provides employment and training for the local community, with a tree nursery, cooking and computing classes and a shop selling locally crafted jewellery.

Hippos in the Mara River opposite Karen Blixen Camp, Kenya

Of course the highlight of any trip to Kenya is the safari. We ventured out every morning and again in the evenings. Snuggled under local blankets and with a thermos of coffee, Daniel imparted his local knowledge and infectious love of the wildlife. The camp is in the Mara North Conservancy just outside the National Park, this does mean that there is a little more flexibility and less congestion when viewing the wildlife. We were often viewing animals up close, without another truck in sight and there is a fond camaraderie amongst the drivers, game keepers and local farmers.

Daniel - our more than capable and knowledgeable driver & guide from Karen Blixen Camp

The highlights included multiple lion families all with cubs, herds of elephants washing in the river, cheetah hunting and a night drive where we saw a hyena take a baby antelope. Every game drive was different and Daniel ensured we were always surprised, even providing a surprise picnic breakfast one morning complete with chefs and white table cloths. On our last day we ventured into the Mara National Park, which is about a 2 hour bumpy ride away from the lodge. The vastness of the plains and scale of the herds is amazing. It was early in the migration season and the wildebeest were grouping, although we didn’t see a actual river crossing (some had taken place the day before) it was interesting to see the points of the river where this happens and view the waiting crocodiles.

Breakfast on the plains in Masai Mara, Kenya.

After 3 nights at the lodge we returned by small plane back to Nairobi for a quick overnight before we embarked on the train journey across to Mombasa. The new fast train line between Nairobi and Mombasa has reduced the journey to 6 hours, stopping at local stations on the way and crossing the Kenyan National Park. You can view elephants and zebra from the train window and arrive at the new, modern Mombasa rail station. It was then a short taxi ride to the Serena Beach Resort hotel on the northern coast. This lovely resort provided some relaxing beach time before returning home.

The pool at the Serena Beach Resort & Spa, Kenyan coast

The grounds are beautiful with palm trees, white sand beach and turtle sanctuary, if you are lucky you may just catch a baby hatching. We played tennis under an audience of monkeys and relaxed poolside under the frangipani trees. Snorkelling, diving and windsurfing are all on offer. It was then a short flight from Mombasa back to Nairobi and onto London.

Two male cheetahs before a chase.

Kenya is magical, and viewing the animals in their natural habitat is breathtaking. I can see why visitors return again and again, each holiday would be different according to the seasons and movements of the wildlife. Travel Matters researched and booked everything down to the last detail, even guiding us through the visa process, it made for a wonderfully relaxing holiday.  Kenyans are rightly proud of their country and delighted to share all it has to offer, it was a privilege to spend a week in this wonderful country.

Safari drive in the Masai Mara.

This guest blog post is by Katrina Clarkson who travelled to Kenya in June 2019 with Travel Matters. She was hosted by Karen Blixen Camp and Serena Hotels during her visit.

This year I decided to celebrate the new Wizz Air route Luton to Eilat by booking my holiday to Israel and Jordan. Afterall visiting Jerusalem – the heart of the ancient world and a sacred city of three religions – has always been on my bucket list. Israel offers so much more than religious sites but the thought of walking on the ground that once was trodden on by Jesus Christ is simply mind-blowing. Also I have always found admirable how the Jews were able to preserve their language and culture without their own territory for many centuries.

Although Israel is a small country -  you can cross it from top to bottom in 5 hours – there is so much to see and experience, it is a real melting pot of traditions and cultures. Its quite interesting to see how much cities within one country can differ. Take Tel Aviv for example – a young, modern, cosmopolitan city, with a fantastic nightlife and dining scene, with fashionable young crowd wearing short skirts. And yet only an hour away there is Jerusalem, where behaviour and clothing are as conservative and orthodox as could be. Come Friday/Saturday, the city comes to a standstill with most shops/restaurants shut due to Shabbat. Even roads get car free.

The Wailing Wall, Jerusalem

The Old City covers an area of only one square kilometer, yet the density of the shrines of different religions, attractions, monuments of architecture surpasses all expectations. Here are the Temple Mount and the Wailing Wall - for the Jews, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and Via Dolorosa (Path of Sorrow) - the road Jesus Christ walked before his crucifixion - for Christians, the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque - for Muslims. But this is not an open-air museum  - here ordinary people live ordinary lives.

The Wailing Wall, Jerusalem

Tel Aviv is a brilliant city break destination. It was quite interesting to learn that the city is very young and has been originated only in the 50s. It attracts visitors by its wide Mediterranean beaches, impressive dining scene and sunny weather almost all year round. I particularly liked cool little restaurants in the old port of Jaffa. In general I was really impressed with the local cuisine and its generous use of fragrant herbs and spices. Even street food was really delicious and fresh – homemade humus, falafel wraps, kebabs – all washed down with freshly squeezed pomegranate juice or local wine.

Maryna in Tel Aviv

For those with health issues The Dead See might be the answer with its balmy medicinal air and water so thick that it appears oily. To those of you who want to visit I would recommend to go pronto – the water levels recede every year so in the near future we might lose this miracle of nature.

The Dead Sea

Eilat is a resort town on the opposite side of Israel, squeezed between Egypt and Jordan and thus located on the shores of the Red Sea. I found it to be a good winter sun destination, I travelled in the end of February yet the water temperature was quite swimmable and we managed to top up our tan levels nicely. Eilat may look all about huge hotels and concrete but its underwater world is rich and colourful and is diver’s paradise.  

From Eilat we made our way across the border to Jordan.

Our accommodation in the Wadi Rum desert, Jordan

Our first destination was Wadi Rum desert known for its fantastical Martian sceneries. Location really is out of this world, no wonder many Mars based movies were shot here, including the Martian with Matt Damon. We spent our night in a desert camp, in a dome overlooking the desert and the starry sky. Unfortunately we were not able to go on a hot air balloon trip as planned due to a poor weather, but a jeep safari was a good alternative.

Wadi Rum, Jordan

Petra was our next stop. I think it is diffucult to find a person who hasn’t heard of this UNESCO heritage site. For me this was a classic case when I expected less but was completely blown away. First of all, the scale of it just bewilders. It is the whole lost city, not just the famous Treasury appearing on all photos. In fact the hike from the entrance to the farthest point, the Monastery is about 5 km, no wonder many travellers go for a two or even three day pass. The scenery around Petra doesn’t disappoint either, in fact some parts of it were really en par with the Panorama route in South Africa. A fantastic mixture of orange and green, with occasional bell sounds from grazing goats.  

All in all it was a fantastic holiday saturated with sights, natuare and delicious food, I honestly cant recommend highly enough.

Maryna travelled to Israel and Jordan in February 2019 Please contact us if you would like us to arrange a bespoke holiday for you to Israel or Jordan.

What an amazing trip full of memorable experiences and cultural contradictions.

Another triumph from Karen and her excellent colleagues at Travel Matters and the incredible logistical magic of Wendy Wu and their wonderful local guides. For over three weeks in April/May 2019 the Luboffs travelled across the vast and populated country that is China, with its 1.4bn people, and ended with a few days exploring the sights and buzz of Hong Kong.

We flew into Shanghai, a modern metropolis which is just getting bigger and bigger.

To get a good feel for the city visit the Urban Planning Exhibition hall which has a magnificent model of the entire city - planned out to 2030. We took an evening cruise on the Huangpu River which shows you very clearly – this time in real life - the classic architecture of the Bund facing the almost Blade Runner futuristic buildings of Pudong. So many buildings alight with flashing images – the waterfront panoramic light show financed (substantially) by the government.

Do not miss a trip to the Shanghai Museum – one of the best I have seen in the world in terms of layout, explanation and quality of exhibits. The Buddha statues, the porcelain, the calligraphy are all amazing. You could spend quite a few hours there!

Then on to the Yu Gardens – a tranquil haven in the middle of the busy city. Built by one man for his family as a retreat he had a fascination with a particular type of stone he nicknamed exquisite jade. Plenty of good luck dragons – they do not have wings but a magic ball in their mouth enabling them to fly.

All of our travel was going to be by train – the very fast, very clean, very comfortable and always on time bullet trains. Make sure you go for the soft seats option (they call it first class) but do not bother with the free snack boxes handed out! The Red Cap porters are great – so friendly and helpful and they take you to and collect you from your seats ensuring your luggage is correctly stowed.

So onto Beijing – this has a very different feel to it – the nation’s capital for 600 years containing a multitude of ancient monuments, buildings and treasures to explore.

The Summer Palace is a beautiful royal park crammed full with many buildings where Emperors resided and the Dragon Lady held court. The Long Corridor is certainly long, the lake is shown off by its colourful dragon boats. A relaxing promenade.

Your first sight of the Great Wall confirms what an incredible engineering feat it was in its construction. We were lucky that we almost had the Wall to ourselves – but it can be very crowded so choosing the right time to visit is very important.

It snakes up the hilly landscape as if to say try and breach me if you dare!

You can reach the top of the Wall at Mutianyu by cable car and then toboggan down the spiral slideway (good fun)!

You should not miss a visit to Tiananmen Square although it is not nearly as impressive as Red Square in Moscow – even though apparently it can accommodate 1million people! Apart from the portrait of Mao it really is just a big open space – but of course you cannot help but project onto it the dramatic visual picture and memory of the student standing in front of a tank in June 1989. From there you enter the Forbidden City consisting of an amazing 800 buildings and 10,000 rooms – plenty of gold, lions and secret entrances for the concubines who were escorted to the Emperor’s rooms each evening by the resident eunuchs!

Do not be tempted by a so-called cyclo-rickshaw ride through the Hutongs – it really is very disappointing – drab buildings, little activity, no atmosphere! The Temple of Heaven is a beautiful example of Ming architecture – where the Emperors went to worship once a year for good harvests and to atone for the sins of their people.

Do not leave Beijing without sampling the Peking Duck – we went to the Dadong restaurant, you will not be disappointed. Another train journey this time to Xi’an (“See – An”) to see the famous Army of Terracotta Warriors protecting the tomb of the First Emperor over 2,000 years ago.

An awesome sight, a truly incredible restoration and conservation project, a real Wonder of the World. Just three pits opened up to-date and perhaps another 400 – 500 still to be explored in due course. Will they ever breach the site of the Emperor’s tomb itself to see what is there? Can they protect the finds, are the rivers of mercury real? Almost no figures have been found complete due to collapsing wooden beams used to construct the so-called protective ceilings over them – the putting together of the jigsaws was initially a completely manual process but is now helped by computer technology.

We had arranged to visit and spend the night at the Baoguo Temple up on Mount Emei (“Er-May”). Over 600 years old it is the only temple in China to have its own seven Buddhas – most have the classic three Buddha combo – representing the past, present and the smiling future Buddha. You quite rightly cannot take photos of the Budhhas. This was a really special experience – eating the same vegetarian food as the monks (basically rice and greens), getting up at 5.00am to see the monks at their morning session, breakfast of more rice and pickled vegetables and then a private meditation session with one of the (very intense) young(er) monks. To be highly recommended and one of the real highlights of our trip.

After this we then visited the Wannian Temple – a cable car ride followed by a trek up the mountain to 1,000m in rather treacherous wet conditions and having to watch out for the rather scary and confrontational Tibetan macaque monkeys who know no fear when they are after food and drink off the tourists! Beware and look after your camera!

Next we took a longer bus and cable car trip right to the top of Mount Emei to see the Golden Summit (at 3,000m) and the 10 headed Buddhas stature in solid gold (re-gilded every 5 years). It sits on top of four elephants and is surprisingly (to us) very new as it was only built in 2006. Indeed they are currently building new temples up there – rather bizarre! You might have thought they would have enough by now! The day we went the whole mountain was covered in mist – very magical and mystical if not so good for photos. If you are very lazy you can be taken up and down by a two man sort of rickshaw stretcher contraption  - looks rather scary and uncomfortable!  Buddhists climb all the way to the top stopping at each step to kneel down and blessing the ground – amazing if your knees are up to it of course. A transfer to Leshan where we climbed up the Lingyun mountain to see the Grand Buddha – an incredible statue carved into the river cliff, standing 71 metres tall, completed in 803 AD after 90 years work – the vision of one monk who was not able to actually see the work being carried out. It is worth not only getting close up to it but also taking an evening boat ride to see it lit up at night – be patient it is worth the wait when you get close.

Then onto Chengdu and the Panda Reserve which houses about 60 pandas (including some very rare and intriguing much smaller red pandas). Very well laid out most of the pandas are by themselves but if they are young they will still be with their mother. 

They are incredibly cute and adorable to watch – they eat vast amounts of bamboo, then rest and repeat this process a number of times each day. They clearly dream of bamboo! The panda below looks to me like he is just chilling out wearing a pair of noise reducing headphones!

A short train journey then takes us to Chongqing to embark on our Yangtze River cruise. The Yangtze River (the “Long River”) is the third longest river in the world after the Nile and the Amazon. We were also amazed to hear that the Chongquing municipality – the size of Austria - has a population of 31million people, the largest municipality in China. We had never heard of it. The city itself is unfortunately a very drab concrete jungle. They call it a cruise but really it is just a glorified boat trip which only becomes exiting and interesting when you eventually go through the Three Gorges – or at least 2 ½ of them as you cannot now go all the way to Shanghai due the Three Gorges Dam – the largest/biggest Dam in the world which took over 19 years to complete and raised the water level by 60ms.

The scenery is indeed breath taking, vertical cliffs rising dramatically from the water.

We did not take advantage of some of the excursions and reports back confirmed that this was a good decision – Fengdu’s Ghost City appears to have been built almost yesterday! The Romance of the Three Kingdoms Show did however get good reviews.    Make sure you also take the smaller boat trip option for a trip down one of the smaller tributaries (Goddess Stream) as you can get close to the rock face and fully appreciate the gorge-enous of it all.

After disembarking we then traveled to Guilin via Wuchan and transferred to Yangshuo to our mountain retreat hotel. Located on the Li River the landscape is dominated by the limestone Karst peaks everywhere – very reminsicent of Hulong Bay in Vietnam. A beautiful location and so relaxing to just watch the bamboo rafts drift past whilst we enjoyed our breakfast.

We went to see an amazing show – “Impressions Liu Sanje” - based on the shore of the Li River and taking place out on the water. 2,000 people watching a cast of 600 act out a variety of local cultural stories from the past with dramatic light effects. Worth going to see.   

From Yangshou back to Guilin and then onto Shenzhen and Luhou port for the onward train to Hong Kong for a few days sightseeing and relaxation – staying in the very lovely 5-star Langham Hotel.

What an amazing trip more than living up to our expectations. We were looked after so well by our four main guides who were charming and bright, very knowledgeable and a delight to be with. We felt very safe, very educated and informed and they certainly knew all the short cuts to keep us out of the crowds. 

The highlights were spectacular: - the stay in the Buddhist Temple, the Warriors and the Wall, the Grand Buddha, the splendour of both the Three Gorges and the Karst scenery. The Giant Pandas were also a delight.

Mark Luboff travelled to China in April. Ask us for more details or drop us a line for more information.