Larvik & Oslo City Break

The trip begins here. As I sit on a train which is travelling on the only track it can, I realise that my thoughts are freed from the tracks they are usually on a Thursday. Surely travelling away from your own direction of thought is one of the best escapes you can have? Another realisation is that I have everything I need for the next couple of days in my 40x25x20cm bag, or as close as my bag collection allows. Amazing how saving money can push us into accepting such strict criteria. If I were at work, I’d be calling the managers dictatorial and fascist but from a flight operative that’s willing to take me somewhere else for £25 less if I don’t pack a pair of shoes, I’ll take it.

From the airport, the train to Larvik travels through central Oslo. We decide to take this opportunity to break our journey. We start to list our limited knowledge of famous Norwegians; the scream painting by Edvard Munch, we’d enjoyed the light exhibitions at the Tate and National by Olafur Eliasson (no, just checked – he’s Danish/Icelandic), the Manchester United manager, Ole Gunnar Solskjaer...at this point a young man opposite intervened to confirm our limited knowledge. We asked what we should do with a couple of hours in Oslo and when he found out we were from London he became embarrassed and thought we would find Oslo very boring.

We did not. It was very charming. I liked the fact you could hear the hubbub of conversation in the street against a backdrop of tuneful church bells rather than the roar of traffic. The weather was glorious, blue skies and a sprinkling of snow and down at the waterfront the light was intensified by the reflection of the sun. It was good to experience this light as on our return through, Oslo was bathed in grey. Although cold outside, every indoor space we entered was warm (when have you ever been in a warm cathedral?) 

Traditional fare for lunch; meatballs, potatoes, mushy peas and lingonberry for me; dumplings, mutton sausage and swede for my husband. As heavy as you’d expect it to be but tasty.

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Our first time together in a spa hotel and we found ourselves to be a tad uptight about the etiquette. We shower in our room without the prescription swimsuit on (a merciless brown affair for both sexes) then put it on followed by a brown bathrobe and sliders. We pick up our Turkish towels and step out into the corridor feeling slightly mortified as we walk through the hotel to the spa. 

We arrived quite late, 8:30ish with a closing time of 9 pm and fortunately find the outside jacuzzi lit by a flame lamp. We get in and the bubbles lift our bodies to the surface as the steam rises and we raise our eyes to the moon and relax. All too soon a young woman comes to put out the lamp and says the spa is closing. So off we wander keen to get a quick glimpse of the rest of the spa before it closes. My wandering is disturbed as I turn around to see my husband, dimly lit in the frame of a door, addressing the young woman between us in a tone of voice I associate with a naughty toddler being caught out.‘ Ahh, I’m all wet, sorry- err my dressing gown’. He had walked into the mineral cave, a warm but deep pool. The girl, itching to get home no doubt, graciously deals with the last irritating guests and I laugh and laugh, with no feelings of mortification, all the way back to the hotel room.

They sell romantic packages at the spa but I reckon we got the best romantic experience you can have; doing something stupid and then being able to laugh like drains about it. 

We head to the bar, laugh some more and order some beer, two ceviches, patatas bravas and a goats cheese salad. All fresh but slightly lacking in flavour. 

We spent a very comfortable night in our room, laying our heads on enormous pillows as our bodies melted into mattresses and our minds were lulled to sleep by the soft lapping of the waves.

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In the morning we were treated to seeing the hotel in its glorious setting as the sun continued to shine. A view of the sea sparkled behind the reception, from the breakfast room and from a part of the spa that jutted over the sea: this comprised of a Finnish sauna, hot pool and ladders down into the fjord. We enjoyed the brilliant design of this as we heated up in the sauna staring out to sea, nipped outside down the ladder into the icy fjord, dashed back up the ladder, wobbly-legged into the hot pool, then legs tingling, back to the rest of the spa. We enjoyed the gentle experience of the herbal spa after the extremity of the fjord. 

The breakfast, in contrast to the bar food, was marvellous. A buffet of fruits and fruit shots, cinnamon soaked oats, delicious whole-grain loaves, charcuterie, cheese, smoked fish and eggs, salads, chilli, waffles- there was nothing you could want for. After a breakfast of endless choice (but why choose when you can eat it all?) we followed the coastal path past the arts centre and restaurants along wooden walkways, there were no barriers here either. You don’t realise things like fences are part of your culture until, as in yesterday evening, you walk off an edge into the water and realise you’ve been protected all your life. Cultural assumptions; it takes to travel to challenge them. 

Another day brings us pure joy as the clouds have drawn over Farris Bad and wash the landscape grey. This morning the sea was like glass reflecting the sky and bright sunshine. The gentle rhythmic sound of the waves continues though, calming and reassuring as it was during the night.

We head back to the spa. The variety is impressive, the standard high and the headcount acceptable. We revisited the mineral cave in a more conventional manner and enjoyed its mellow warmth. The central pool had several cascading spouts and underwater jets which alternated in pummelling your shoulders and limbs. I enjoyed a sauna event where 12 of us were led into a steam bath; eucalyptus oil was dashed on coals then wafted around us, we were then given some scrub which we rubbed in our bodies, followed by a cold hose. Invigorating as intended.

We found our spa experience stimulating, relaxing and restful. Likewise our experience of Norway. I’d definitely visit again reassured by the space, reliability of the services and gentleness of the people.

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As we walked through the town, shopping centre and arts centre I see that I have spent all my life in public spaces jostling with other people. There is an infrastructure here that isn’t groaning under the pressure of masses of people. I feel comfortable. I am trusted to help myself to another coffee; an art gallery is opened just for us to look around despite the exhibition only opening tomorrow; I drink a beer in a comfortably worn but not grubby armchair, listening to music from a Bose speaker which seems under no threat of being ripped off the wall. I am not hassled but then neither am I challenged. I must say this suits my middle age as I feel I have spent my whole life being challenged by other peoples’ ideas, cultures and needs and it feels comfortable to be surrounded by what I know. However, the ethnic minorities here seem conspicuous by their otherness. I haven’t seen evidence of communities but have seen people working and drinking coffee. It’s as if integration hasn’t happened in this small town yet and I think about the UK’s history of immigration; established communities enriching our culture and the opportunities for talented people to flourish. I think about some of my Kurdish students who have relocated to the UK after a spell in Norway. 

Have decided I’d quite like to be a refugee in Norway when Brexit hits the UK hard. The student we spoke to on the train told us overseas students can study for free here...could be a plan...


Our lovely guest writer, Rachael Farquhar, visited Oslo and Larvik last weekend.

If you’d like to organise a trip to Norway, and even check out Farris Bad for yourself, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Jump Collaboration
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We’re beyond excited to announce our most recent partnership with Jump, the UK’s leading supplier of employee engagement programmes that drive sustainable behaviours within a range of industries. From corporate employers to university students, Jump has a proven record of 15.2 million positive actions recorded and 39kg of waste avoided per person.  

According to the Commons' Environmental Audit Committee (EAC), global tourism is responsible for 5% of greenhouse gas emissions, and at the start of January 2020, we declared a Climate Emergency as part of Tourism Declares, an industry-wide initiative to take action. The travel sector currently employs over 300 million people globally with the potential to have a far-reaching impact. We’re hoping to promote Jump within the industry and drive positive change across the entire sector.

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As part of our Make Travel Matter campaign, we believe that the healing process needs to first happen on an internal level. Joining forces with Jump and actively encouraging other industry partners and travel agencies will hopefully produce a pragmatic chain effect in the travel sector. A focus on behavioural change will be the main ambition of this initiative.

They offer trackable and measurable client-customised web platforms and apps that help drive behaviour change amongst employees. To motivate users to take action, friendly competitions between individuals and teams are encouraged with top performers being rewarded for their positive actions. The behaviour change programmes are made up of several modules and are tailored to the employer's main priorities. The behaviour modules are targeting current issues such as plastics, energy-saving, recycling, wellbeing, health & safety, volunteering and more. Employers will have access to real-time data dashboards to check how the programme is performing overall. Team Jump will be by your side every step of the way to help you navigate the process seamlessly.

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If you’re a business representative, whether you’re part of the travel sector or not, and feel like it’s time to push for positive change at your work place, please do get in touch with Jump via their website.

Eco-conscious visit to Costa Rica
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The travel industry has never been more scrutinised for its contribution to global warming. From Greta Thunberg sailing across the Atlantic to #flightshaming going viral on social media, we are increasingly aware of the impact of our carbon footprint on the planet. Transforming from eco-warrior to eco-tourist can allow you to explore the wonders of the world in a way that limits your damage to the environment – you just have to travel to the right places. 

Costa Rica is one of the world’s prime eco-tourism destinations. But what exactly do we mean by eco-tourism? The objective is to immerse travellers in nature, with the goal of educating and imparting environmental awareness. Eco-tourism unites conservation with local communities and wildlife, aiming to minimise a tourist’s impact. 

Costa Rica has the highest density of plant and animal species on Earth.  Though occupying just 0.3% of the planet’s landmass, it’s home to an astonishing 5% of the entire world’s biodiversity. Its tropical climate extends across extreme variations in altitude and covers countless ecosystems: the country has 20 life zones, 850 bird species, 237 mammal species, 1,260 tree species, 1,200 orchid species, and 361 reptile and amphibian species. Protecting these natural wonders remains high on the country’s agenda, and thankfully tourism hasn’t wavered in its commitment to conservation. 

Costa Rica’s push towards eco-tourism began with the establishment of the Cabo Blanco National Reserve in 1963, followed by the creation of its first official national parks in 1971. Today the Costa Rican park system includes 70 entities and protects over 3,221,000 acres. Coupled with numerous private reserves operated by non-profits and environmental groups, this means that 30% of national territory is allocated for conservation - one of the highest ratios in the world. 

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And one of the best ways to practise eco-tourism is by staying in an eco-lodge. These abodes are intentionally isolated to allow travellers direct, uninterrupted access to nature. Many of Costa Rica’s first eco-lodges were sustainable long before sustainability became a buzzword. These eco-lodges operated in remote, off-the-grid locations that required them to optimise their efficiency and minimise their impact. They used solar and wind power because the area lacked electrical lines and grew their own food because there were no accessible supermarkets. They hired locals, the only workforce available, and became educators within the community, often training guides, receptionists and chefs. Costa Rica’s original eco-lodges paved the way for the eco-lodges of today. 

Last month I explored the incredibly rich and diverse region of Guanacaste. I flew into Liberia (direct flights from London Gatwick with TUI airlines) which is perfectly positioned for easy access to the beaches, volcanos and the cloud forest. Guanacaste also has 70% of the country’s biodiversity – so this is where you want to be. 

Having read stellar reviews, I booked my first few nights at Finca Luna Nueva eco-lodge. I was particularly drawn to the firm emphasis placed on farm-to-table cuisine and its claim to be a ‘living classroom’ concept – set on an organic herbal farm at the edge of a 200-square-kilometre conservation area of primary rainforest, only 16km from the iconic Arenal volcano. You do genuinely feel like you’re living a David Attenborough documentary, breakfasting on the freshest fruits, listening to the sound of howler monkeys, watching exotic hummingbirds and butterflies land on the most exquisite flowers, surrounded by birds of paradise, all types of iguanas – it was a true feast for the eyes and the senses. I went on the most sensational horse-riding tour around the volcano, followed by a dip in the solar-heated jacuzzi and natural spring-fed pool. 

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After indulging in jungle paradise, I decided to move on to soak up some sun on the beach. Costa Rica’s beaches are some of the cleanest in the world, thanks to The Blue Flag Environmental Program. This is one of many initiatives that promote the pursuit of conservation and development consistent with the protection of natural resources, the implementation of actions to address climate change as well as those to improve the public health of the people of Costa Rica, or ‘Ticos’ as they’re locally known. The Blue Flag Environmental Program also has an annual awards ceremony – the winners’ list is a great resource when looking for the country’s top-rated eco-conscious accommodation. 

Playa Flamingo and Playa Conchal became firm favourites of mine with their wonderful beachside ‘sodas’ (local restaurants serving the freshest food) and pristine water. 

The hotel and estate Reserva Conchal really stood out for their commitment to sustainability. From meeting much of their energy needs through solar power to produce 45 tons of organic fertiliser monthly, they also run local initiatives such as Hortalizas Najui which seeks to empower local women through organic farming (“Hortalizas” are vegetables, and “Najui” is a Chorotega – tribal word - for women). These organic vegetables are sold to restaurants in their hotels, as well as to homeowners and visitors, and the remains are sold at the local farmer’s market.

On to Playa Flamingo, where I was lucky enough to stay at the dazzling 360 Flamingo. These luxury condos are set on the top of a cliff, with a saltwater infinity pool looking out onto the breath-taking panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean and Playa Flamingo. Although 360 Flamingo caters to the luxury eco-traveller, it creates the perfect balance of exclusivity without pretentiousness.  Their incredible Concierge service will help you find any eco-focused excursion you need - e.g. snorkelling on a sailboat powered by solar energy or a bespoke national parks tour. Always wanted to watch turtles hatching or take a photo of a humpback whale? If it’s the right season, they’ll make it happen. If you’re hungry just dial 0 to order from any nearby restaurant, and the Concierge will deliver it directly to your door. I was particularly impressed by the widespread use of compostable packaging and the lack of plastic in every restaurant – as I was with the emphasis placed on recycling, with rubbish bins on every corner, not just of the hotel, but of the town itself. 

Playa Flamingo is also famed for being electric transport-friendly. For only USD 50 for 24 hours, I was able to rent a cute little 4-seater buggy and charge up at many restaurants in Playa Flamingo and nearby Potrero.  Carry on 8km up the coast and you’ll find a solar and electric powered haven, Las Catalinas, completely pedestrianised and built in the style of an Amalfi coastal town. It is the epitome of an eco-conscious community: on Thursdays they hold local farmers’ markets and run a weekly litter-picking and recycling volunteer activity through community centre.  

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The love the Ticos have for their country and its unique and exquisite natural beauty is completely infectious, and you feel inspired to help preserve it as they do.  It’s in everything they say and do. Say hello to a Tico in the street and you’ll be greeted in response, “Pura Vida”  - literally translated as ‘pure life’. And in Costa Rica, you really feel it is. 

Our lovely contributor, Amelia Stewart, visited Costa Rica at the beginning of January.

Check out what she’s been up to on her website.

If you’d like more tips on how to have a seamless, successful trip to Costa Rica, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Myanmar - South East Asia's Golden Wonder

I've been to over 120 countries, trying to visit at least 4 new countries every year and have ticked off nearly every corner of the globe.  However, there's been one country that's been on my wish list for over 30 years, from when I lived in Hong Kong back in the 80s. Back then it was only possible to visit Myanmar or Burma as it was then for a week and at that point, there were too many other easier and more accessible Asian countries I wanted to explore. Then followed a decade-long tourism boycott but the desire never went away. Finally this November I got to experience what is easily one for the most beautiful and untouched countries in Asia and set out to find out if Rudyard Kipling's famous quote "This is Burma and it will be quite unlike any land you know about" still held true. Myanmar is full of old empire opulence, grand pagodas, natural wonders and a predominantly Buddhist population renowned for its friendliness and hospitality, eager to share their ancient customs. There are a dozen or so absolute must-do highlights including The Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Mandalay, a cruise down the Irrawaddy, Bagan and it's temples and sparkling  Inle Lake. All of which I did and have no hesitation in recommending. However, I travelled with Experience Travel Group who create personalised, distinctive and experience-based holidays and therefore I also got to also discover a side of Myanmar that few tourists ever do, seeing the cultural highlights with a twist. Better facilities and infrastructure within the country means that it is easier now to visit more places. I also genuinely feel that one can visit the country and support hugely deserving individuals and private companies with minimal support to the military regime. 

Here are a few of my favourite places and experiences.

Petra posing by the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon (Rangoon)

Petra posing by the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon (Rangoon)

The giant Shewedagon Pagoda is Myanmar's gold-plated showpiece and the most sacred Buddhist site in the country (Buddha's hair is said to be buried inside it). The brilliant, golden pagoda (the oldest in the world) standing close to 110m high and covered in gold leaf and 4,531 diamonds are visible from all over Yangon with sunset the perfect time to visit.   

On my visit the stupa glowed in warm orange light, the air was heavy with the scent of flowers and incense and the shuffling crowds flowed as one around the pagoda. I got to have my photo taken by one of the professional photographers that hang around the pagoda before joining devotees taking part in a lamp-lighting ceremony, where hundreds of oil lamps are lit each evening to bring good luck. A magical start to my visit. I'd been recommended to keep Shewdagon Pagoda to the end of my trip as once you've seen it, no other pagoda can possibly compare. However, patience not being my strongest virtue and itching to get up close, I was straight there on the first night. 

All smiles after taking a balloon trip over the temples in Bagan

All smiles after taking a balloon trip over the temples in Bagan

Bagan, located on the east bank of the Irrawaddy River, is home to the largest and densest concentration of Buddhist temples, monuments and ruins in the world, over 2000 in total with many dating from the 11th and 12th centuries.   

Balloons over Bagan, a long standing hot air balloon operator, takes passengers in complete safety and comfort high above the region for 45 minutes. Seeing the thousands of ancient temples spreading across the plains, appearing through the mist as the sun rises is undoubtedly one of Myanmar's most impressive sites and not to be missed. The flights only operate in the dry season between October and March. Taking a balloon ride has long been top of my bucket list. I'd been saving up to do one on a milestone birthday, but no friends or family got the hint! On the Bagan balloon ride I really did feel as though I was in some kind of a dream - the gentle floating sensation, the views, the silence and then the thrilling landing, skimming the rice fields, waving at the farmers metres below us, before landing on a sandbank. Out of the blue a table is set up, champagne and eats materialise and no-one can stop smiling.  

Smiling local at Kyun Thiri island on a rural excursion

Smiling local at Kyun Thiri island on a rural excursion

When in Bagan you should allow at least a couple of days to also walk, cycle, take a horse and cart or electric motorbike to explore the temples including the impressive temples of Ananda and  Dhammayangyi, the largest temple Shwezigon and the tallest Thatbyinnyu. However, when all the temples (not to mention the crowds) get all a bit too much Experience Travel Group offers a unique rural excursion to Kyun Thiri Island.  The 1,300 mile long Irrawaddy (navigable all the way from Yangon to Bhamo, near the Chinese border) is one of the world's most fabled rivers. To get to the island involved a short boat trip across the Irrawaddy before arriving at the island, just a rustic wooden jetty and a series of muddy steps up a bank before you arrive at the village. This is a totally authentic experience, you'll see no mass tourist boats, just yourself and a guide. I spent the morning with the people of the island, learning about their unique agricultural way of life and being blown away by the friendliness of the welcome and willingness to be photographed.   

A bullock cart on the trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake

A bullock cart on the trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake

Located in Myanmar's north-eastern Shan State, Kalaw is an old hill station with a welcome cooler climate. To fully appreciate the charms of rural Myanmar, I trekked over the rolling hills from Kalaw to nearby Inle Lake staying in monasteries, being lulled to sleep by chanting monks. With Lin Lin my guide, Tun Tun my porter and Nye Nye the cook we walked for five or six hours a day enjoying the bucolic landscape, reminiscent of Tuscany. We watched the farmers planting, tending and harvesting their crops, chillies, corn and rice. I got to help harvest the rice, holding the stems then cutting the crop with a sickle. I have to admit rather unsuccessfully but at least it caused endless merriment to the bemused ladies taking a break from their work. The women mostly wear traditional dress, turbans on their heads, folded like a towel for shade or wiping away sweat and then often with a bamboo hat on top. The men mostly wear football shirts! This isn't a challenging hard core hike, more of an interesting agricultural experience. However, the gentle pace, the pastoral landscapes, the fresh food bought and cooked for lunch and dinner, the lack of crowds (particularly any other westerners), the beaming smiles from everyone we encountered made this one of the most memorable treks I've ever done and the perfect digital detox.

Intha fisherman showing off his one legged rowing skills on Inle Lake

Intha fisherman showing off his one legged rowing skills on Inle Lake

A photo of the Intha fisherman with their unusual one legged rowing technique, hooking a leg around a long oar to scull across glassy blue Inle Lake is perhaps Myanmar's most iconic image and used to sell the country worldwide. The best way to explore Inle Lake is on a day trip, slicing through the waters on a long tailed boat.  Tours include visits to fishing villages with their houses built on stilts and silk weaving and cheroot rolling industries. Stops are also made to watch blacksmiths and silversmiths at work and to see the floating market that moves between the area's villages on a five day rota. Inle Lake didn't disappoint and there were unmissable photo opportunities at every turn. I was also excited to hear that  Balloons over Bagan have  recently launched a ballooning experience over the Lake  and another extraordinary way to experience one of Myanmar's most scenic attractions.    Breakfast is taken next to one of the beautiful Shan villages wherever the balloon lands.

Getting off the beaten track, visiting a Kayan tribe village

Getting off the beaten track, visiting a Kayan tribe village

Closed for over half a century and only recently opened to visitors, Kayah state is home to nine distinct ethnic groups, which diversified and evolved from Karen culture.  The biggest groups are the Kayah, Kayan, Bre, Lahta, and Yinbaw. Many tribes still practice their indigenous customs, handed down for centuries and dress in their traditional costumes including wearing heavy brass neck rings. Never one to miss a chance to dress up, I got to feel the weight of the brass rings by trying on just a couple.

Ngapali Beach

Ngapali Beach

For those who follow me on social media will know how much of an aquaphile I am. There's nothing I like more than being by the water, on the water or more importantly in the water. No trip therefore would be complete without giving a rundown of a few of my favourite swimming pools and swimming spots. After touring Myanmar's main sites, laid back Ngapali Beach is the place to relax and enjoy a spectacular sunset from a practically empty palm fringed golden sand beach, untroubled by touts. Unlike some resorts in neighbouring Thailand, Ngapali is still relatively unspoilt with just a small number of beach front hotels. I stayed at Sandoway Resort and enjoyed the balmy blue waters of the Bay of Bengal, took a boat trip for a spot of snorkelling and visited the traditional fishing villages that line the coast.

Infinity pool heaven at Inle Lake View Resort and Spa

Infinity pool heaven at Inle Lake View Resort and Spa

The Inle Lake View Resort and Spa is the only deluxe boutique hotel of international standard on the shores of Inle Lake with an infinity heated swimming pool with views out across the lake that got the big thumbs up from me. It was a super social pool as most guests are out and about during the day on excursions but happy to meet up in the pool or adjoining jacuzzi at the end of the day, to watch the sunset and swap tales of this magnificent country. 

To find out more about Myanmar visit https://www.tourismmyanmar.org/

Petra visited Myanmar in December 2019. If you would like to know more about this destination, don’t hesitate to give us a call or to send us an email.

5 Ways to Be a More Sustainable Traveller

Planning a holiday has never been easier. But what does that mean for local communities, wildlife and the environment?

Being a traveller in the modern world involves certain responsibilities as one is an active part of the largest industry in the world. For far too long people have been focusing solely on the beneficial aspects that tourism can provide. It’s time that we kickstart a conversation and raise awareness around the potential negative impacts of this beautiful industry and how travellers can play their part in fixing its current issues.

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  1. Transport. The most essential aspect of a trip is transport.

Although a great number of holidays take place at very large distances from home, it is understandable that sometimes one cannot escape the burden of leaving a big amount of CO2 emissions behind but there are many ways of reducing some of the harm produced. One might be to take fewer but longer holidays rather than numerous short ones. Another method could be to donate money to charities or organisations such as Trees for Cities or World Land Trust in order to offset some of the CO2 produced. You can also check Flightnook for more information on how to lower your travel pollution. However, when possible, opt for a train journey. Think of all the benefits of allowing yourself time to enjoy a scenic train journey through the Alps or through the West coast of Scotland.

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2. Choose a sustainable travel destination. We understand that it isn’t always easy to be a responsible traveller when the system in the country you’ve decided to visit doesn’t allow you to be one. Why not reverse the situation in your favour, as well as Mother Nature’s, and choose to visit a country based on how environmentally friendly their internal system is.

Destinations such as Costa Rica, Belize and Slovenia are only a few worth mentioning in their fight against unsustainable tourism. More and more countries are developing initiatives to slowly but surely become a guilt-free option in the modern traveller’s mind.

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3. Potential positive outcomes that don’t always go to plan. The industry could bring a lot of money to the country, however, it often ends up in the pockets of massive corporations. Think and act local and support small independent businesses. Jobs might be created to satisfy the market’s demand. However, jobs could be seasonal which makes the local community’s life harder during the offseason. New facilities which are built for tourists are used by the locals too but it can lead to overpopulation, traffic jams and discomfort for the nearby wildlife. Consider travelling outside peak season to ensure equality across the board.

Children in Chupah, Vietnam  | make travel matter |  Responsible tourism | travel agent in London | bespoke holidays | sustainable travel |  holiday ideas | family holidays

4. Give to the right cause, the right way. A large number of very well-intended travellers bring sweets, used clothes and various other items to be handed out to the villagers or kids in developing nations. Although it can feel right at the time, please do avoid doing so. It can cause conflict between the members of the community and encourage a culture of dependency.

There are numerous registered local charities and organisations with whom you can work alongside or donate money instead. A couple that we can recommend are Child Fund or Pack for a Purpose.

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5. Say no to plastic! It’s a mindset that everybody will have to attain one way or another. Plastic really does take roughly 500 years to decompose. It’s a ridiculous amount of time to wait for it to disappear, especially when more than 50% of the entire plastic ever produced was simply discarded.

Opt for locally sourced water in glass bottles (or just a coconut!) and make the conscious effort to bring a tote bag when you’re out shopping for souvenirs or food. You can dramatically reduce single plastic use by rewiring a couple of patterns in your behaviour.


If you have any more questions or are simply curious as to what steps you can make towards becoming a more conscious traveller, please don’t hesitate to drop us an email.

Photos by:

Noah Buscher on Unsplash

Balazs Busznyak on Unsplash

Larm Rmah on Unsplash

Madagascar

Madagascar is a strong contender for offering the most distinctive wildlife holidays on the planet. The island separated from the African mainland some 165 million years ago and much of its fauna and flora have evolved in a unique way - an astonishing 80% is endemic. Madagascar’s almost bizarre array of wildlife echoes the 88 million years the island spent in isolation. Evolution got to work to produce some spectacular species and the island is now one of the most biodiverse regions in the world. It’s so unique that the country is sometimes called the eighth continent. The blog post below belongs to our guest writer and beloved client, Sarah Mortimer.

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You’ve heard the one about an elephant making a trunk call..? Well, now I have seen lemurs in Madagascar in full talk-back mode!

Walking quietly through the rainforest of Andasibe National Park we and our tour guides were on the lookout for some of the island’s many indigenous species that make Madagascar such a treasure trove of flora and fauna: chameleons, birds, butterflies and any number (and, it seems no exact number established, such is the range of species and sub-species) of lemur.

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The birds are beautiful, the chameleons extraordinary, the landscapes amazing… but my own particular quest was to see – and hear – the indri lemurs.

The biggest of the lemur family, with sticky-out ears, a rotund bottom with barely visible tail, these black and white animals look more like a teddy bear – and every bit as cute. But it is their ‘song’ that enchants me: a haunting wailing sound more akin to whale-song in its tuneful cry than a call of the canopy. But having heard their siren call from afar early that morning I was desperate to see these songsters.

Indri lemur in Madagascar | sustainable holidays | make travel matter | responsible tourism

Our guide located a small group of these characterful little beings, and I watched them with delight. Then, right there, miles away from urban life and so deep in the Madagascan (I love the ‘taste’ of that word – as much as the taste of their chocolate!) forest, 21st-century phone-tech came in to play.  Our guide took his mobile phone from his pocket, googled YouTube, and relayed a sound recording of an Indri group’s calls. In response to that recording, our own little troop raised their heads, opened their mouths, and sang their baleful siren song to claim loudly (actually, very loudly) that this patch was theirs! I was entranced by this concert performance, albeit prompted by a degree of manipulation – courtesy of Messrs Apple, Google, and YouTube. But our gang didn’t seem too perturbed: they simply rang out their peal of territorial calls.

So…maybe there IS an argument for phones in the forest – but for appropriate on-line connection only. Ocado is a step too far…

Sarah Mortimer visited Madagascar in October 2019. If you’d like to hear more about our trips to the African continent, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

The Galapagos Conservation Trust Cruise

Galapagos Conservation Trust (GCT) is the only UK charity focussed solely on the conservation of one of the most unique and ecologically important, but vulnerable, areas in the world. With over 20 years of experience, they partner with Ecuadorian authorities, NGOs, local communities and leading researchers to support impactful science, conservation and education programmes across the Archipelago. The Galapagos Islands is a volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. It's considered one of the world's foremost destinations for wildlife-viewing. The incredible diversity of wildlife found in Galapagos is what makes this volcanic archipelago so very special. The Islands are situated at the meeting point of several large oceanic currents, giving them a truly unique array of habitats and an eclectic mix of wildlife.

The island of Isabela in the Galapagos | responsible tourism | make travel matter | sustainable tourism | travel agent in London

Further to our partnership with GCT, we’re now helping in recommending this absolutely unique, edifying cruise trip. In June 2020, there will be running a bespoke Galapagos Conservation Trust (GCT) cruise, offering you the perfect way to see the Archipelago in a comfortable, intimate and sustainable manner, with a group of only 15 people.

Accompanied by a GCT staff member throughout the trip, you will have exclusive opportunities to visit projects funded and delivered by GCT. You will also meet passionate conservationists working on the Islands. What’s more, you can travel in the knowledge that your trip will be directly supporting the conservation and sustainability of the Archipelago.

Galapagos Cruise | sustainable tourism | responsible tourism | make travel matter

Watch giant tortoises in the wild and meet the scientists working to protect them.

Swim and snorkel with beautiful reef fish, turtles, rays and endangered Galapagos penguins.

Breathtaking encounters with pink flamingos, blue-footed boobies, waved albatross, pelicans, sea lions, finches, terns and more.

Visit a world-leading restoration project on Floreana island. You will meet scientists working to restore the island and reintroduce locally extinct species, and of course calling at Floreana’s famous Post Office Bay.

Be thoroughly spoilt, with delicious food and attentive staff on board Beluga, a ‘Superior First Class’ motor yacht owned by Enchanted Expeditions, a respected Galapagos company.

Meet with conservationists working to protect Galapagos marine life, including endangered sharks and the magnificent whale shark.

Explore the historical city of Quito.

Wildlife in the Galapagos | make travel matter | responsible tourism  | sustainable tourism

For pricing and detailed itineraries, you can simply get in touch and we’ll send you the complete guide.

Introduction to forest bathing or Shinrin-Yoku

The concept of forest bathing originated in Japan around the 1980s. It is a practice believed to bring numerous physical and mental benefits. Lead researcher and expert in the field, Dr. Yoshifumi Miyazaki, stated that for 99,9% of the existence of humans, we’ve lived in natural environments and only during the later 0,1% we’ve lived in urban environments.  There are several claims over the title of the first-ever city in the world, however, it was only founded roughly 11,000 years ago and therefore in the scheme of things, humans have barely experienced urban life and some, if not the majority of us, simply haven’t had enough time to adjust to the lifestyle of it.

Forest Hästhult in Sweden, forest bathing | make travel matter | responsible tourism

Forest bathing is a traditional Japanese practice of immersing oneself in nature by mindfully using all five senses. During the 1980s, forest bathing had surfaced as a crucial component of preventive healing and health care in Japan. The reported studies have shown direct associations between this type of practice and its healing properties with strong focuses on:

(1) the immune system function (increase in natural killer cells/cancer prevention);

(2) cardiovascular system (hypertension/coronary artery disease);

(3) the respiratory system (allergies and respiratory disease);

(4) depression and anxiety (mood disorders and stress);

(5) mental relaxation (Attention-Deficit/Hyperactivity Disorder);

(6) human feelings of “awe” (increase in gratitude and selflessness);

An educated mind is a healthy mind. We cannot longer deny all the positive effects that spending time in nature has over our bodies.

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Unlike other types of medicine or healing methods, forest bathing doesn’t involve a series of rigorous methodical actions all to be accomplished in a solitary manner. Activities such as cycling, hiking, forest ranger adventures, added luxuries, etc. are in fact encouraged if one decides to dedicate a whole day or even an entire week to nature bathing. However, once every now and then, it is indeed recommended that one simply takes some time for oneself to get immersed in the natural world, feeling completely disconnected from the rest of the world.

Forest bathing connection to nature | make travel matter |  responsible tourism

As humans, psychologically and spiritually speaking, we intuitively understand the soothing, relaxing and “awe” feelings of being in or viewing plants, flowers, forests, urban green spaces and parks. Why not give our bodies what they need by spending more time outdoors? Especially during the cold season, our mental and physical wellbeing requires at least 20 minutes a day spent in natural environments. Go out there and enjoy the peace and quiet.

Useful links for further research:

https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/environment-and-conservation/2019/10/what-forest-bathing-and-how-does-it-help

https://www.webmd.com/balance/news/20190611/forest-bathing-nature-time-hot-health-advice

https://time.com/5259602/japanese-forest-bathing/

https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/325060.php#1

If you’d like some personal recommendations for UK based or even international locations, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Photos by:

Gustav Gullstrand on Unsplash



Jamaica

If you are after a restful holiday in the Caribbean but also don’t want to feel like you are stranded on an island with nothing to do then Jamaica should be on the cards. It is the third largest island in the Caribbean and offers rich history as well as varied landscape.

Jamaica - rich in heritage & history

Jamaica - rich in heritage & history

Being a larger island, it is ideal for twin centre holidays. What I liked most about Jamaica is its lush natural beauty. You get beautiful white sandy beaches, as well as dramatic cliffs of Negril and then within only a short drive into the interior you are surrounded by verdant hilly countryside with colourful local villages. Do not think that Jamaica is only about the beach, there are beautiful waterfalls, spectacular Blue Mountains, Appleton Estate rum distillery, a world famous Blue Mountain coffee plantation as well as world class snorkelling and diving.

Maryna by a rum shack

Maryna by a rum shack

We started off our trip with a direct BA flight from Gatwick to Kingston. Upon arrival we picked up our car for a week and headed towards Ocho Rios, a port town on the north coast of Jamaica. A former fishing village, which is now a resort town with a busy bay beach lined with hotels. We have visited two properties whilst in Ocho Rios, Couples Tower Isle as well as Jamaica Inn. Couples Tower Isle is an all-inclusive adults-only resort and what we liked most is the intimate picturesque setting, friendly service and fresh good quality food. We also enjoyed the fact that almost all water sports and excursions were included in the package, even snorkelling boat trips and diving.

Sunset over Jamaican sea

Sunset over Jamaican sea

Jamaica Inn needs no introduction as it often gets voted as one of the best hotels in the world. This luxurious boutique hotel has been second home to numerous celebrities as well as weary travellers, who come to completely unwind in the hotels peaceful and classy setting. We particularly liked their over the water suites and very private cottages with direct sea access. 

The surrounding parish of Saint Ann is home to rainforest, rivers and waterfalls with Dunn’s river waterfalls being the most famous. I have seen plenty of waterfalls during my travels but never did I see one falling directly into the sea. Why not reward yourself with a dip in the sea after climbing the waterfall?

Dunns River Falls, Jamaica

Dunns River Falls, Jamaica

Our next stop was Montego Bay, the main tourist area of Jamaica boasting of world-class hotels and wide sandy beaches. Our main aim was visiting the Luminescent Lagoon in Falmouth about an hour away from MoBay. At night, the lagoon sparkles and glistens when disturbed, as microscopic organisms produce an eerie glow, reflecting the outlines of fish and other objects in the water. The Luminous Lagoon is said to be the largest and most brilliant of four in the world, a fact that continually attracts and awes visitors and scientists from around the world. 

Unfortunately, the glow wasn’t too strong when we went as it depends on many factors, like brightness of the sun during the day and presence of the moon, but we were told that it was much stronger the day before. I guess we will need to come again!

Typical Jamaican house.

Typical Jamaican house.

After Montego Bay we continued on to Negril, or the Capital of Casual as it is known. Even with only one pair of shorts and two t-shirts you will never feel underdressed! When most people think of Jamaica they most probably have an image of Negril in their heads – a place that is relaxed, laid back and vibrant with reggae playing on the background. As opposed to Montego Bay, Negril is mostly about small family owned hotels and we stayed in one of those, a luxury boutique hotel called Sandy Haven. It is located on the famous 7 mile beach and what we liked is that we were located in the epicentre of the action yet the hotel itself felt like a peaceful refuge. The pool and the garden area felt like haven indeed combined with one of their delicious rum punches – we were told that the secret was mixing 7 different rums for each mile of the beach. Sandy Haven is an excellent choice for those who want to feel like they are actually in Jamaica and are not shy to have a friendly banter with local beach vendors selling coconuts, fruit and traditional patties. It is in a fantastic location for long beach walks and numerous local beach bars, why not stop in one of them for a drink of Red Stripe and a grilled lobster meal?

Room at Sandy Haven, Jamaica

Room at Sandy Haven, Jamaica

After Negril we were heading back to Kingston with a stop at the Appleton Estate on route for the tour of the distillery and some rum tasting. The drive to the Appleton estate is very enjoyable and goes through beautiful countryside with quaint villages. The estate itself is beautiful and we enjoyed learning about its history and tasting different types of rum.

Three hours later we arrived at our final destination – Strawberry Hill Jamaica Luxury Hotel. With its cluster of cosy and private Post-Plantation cottages, vivid tropical gardens and Infinity swimming pool, the hotel without a doubt was a highlight of our trip. It is no wonder that Strawberry Hill was selected by The New York Times as one of the “1,000 Places To See Before You Die.” Strawberry Hill is steeped in history and its restaurant and the lounge area are full of interesting artefacts.

Strawberry Hill, Jamaica

Strawberry Hill, Jamaica

If you fly to Kingston, I can definitely recommend staying a couple of night at the Strawberry Hill before flying back. Not only is the setting spectacular and peaceful but you will also have a chance to go for a hike in the Blue Mountains or visit the coffee plantation that produces the best coffee in the world. Or how about visiting a pretty historical Anglican chapel located 10 minutes walk from the hotel? You will pass a local school and will have a chance to experience a local way of life. 

We absolutely loved our holiday to Jamaica, filled with sunshine, smiling people the sound of steel drums and reggae music. Highly recommended!

Maryna travelled to Jamaica in October with Travel Matters. Do contact us if you’d like us to recommend and help you arrange a trip yourself.

Seven days in Kenya

The taxi delivered us to the Nairobi Air Safari terminal in early morning darkness. A smiling, sweaty, beanie clad face greeted us, the Manager unlocking the terminal door. Welcome to Kenya where the locals run to and from work. We boarded our flight out to the Mara, with a full view of the cockpit and pilots. The vista was beautiful, glimpses of open plains, mountains, local villages and herds of antelope. We were headed for Karen Blixen Camp, one of the oldest lodges in the Mara North Conservancy. The plane touched down on the red earth and we were greeted by Daniel, our driver and guide. It was a short but breathtaking 30 min trip back to the Lodge; we saw antelopes, giraffes, zebra, baboons, topi, and eagles all within this short drive. Daniel as we were soon to learn was very patient and wonderfully knowledgeable.

Arrival at Mara North airstrip.

Arrival at Mara North airstrip.

After a warm welcome we were shown around the Karen Blixen Camp. It has a prime location on a curve in the Mara River with a large, extended family of hippos living opposite, the noise of this happy family echoes throughout the lodge. You can spend hours sitting in the garden (with a glass of wine) happily viewing the hippos, along with giraffe and elephant families as they come down to the water to drink. One evening while warming ourselves by the outdoor fire-pit, we watched a lioness wander along the riverbank in the moonlight, occasionally stopping to drink. There is an overwhelming sense of wonder at the wildlife that surrounds and occasionally enters the camp, a reminder that this is their home and we are only visitors. One night we were woken by the sound of zebra hooves on our veranda and the security team safely driving them away.

Our accommodation at Karen Blixen Camp.

Our accommodation at Karen Blixen Camp.

The Lodge is beautiful, made from local wood and a thatched roof, while our raised tent was a step back in time but with all the comforts of home, there is a large bathroom and gorgeous outdoor shower where birdlife watch you bathe. The covered, wooden veranda with day-bed looks out upon the river rapids entirely surrounded by native bush. You can watch the crocodiles sunbathing on the opposite side of the river. The tent is reminiscent of “Out of Africa” the famous novel Karen Blixen penned. The lodge has a lovely swimming pool, surrounded by trees and flowers and a day spa. We left our massage relaxed and smelling of native oils. The food and drink at Karen Blixen is wonderful, breakfast is provided on return from the morning safari and there is the opportunity to sample local Kenyan dishes. The camp provides employment and training for the local community, with a tree nursery, cooking and computing classes and a shop selling locally crafted jewellery.

Hippos in the Mara River opposite Karen Blixen Camp, Kenya

Hippos in the Mara River opposite Karen Blixen Camp, Kenya

Of course the highlight of any trip to Kenya is the safari. We ventured out every morning and again in the evenings. Snuggled under local blankets and with a thermos of coffee, Daniel imparted his local knowledge and infectious love of the wildlife. The camp is in the Mara North Conservancy just outside the National Park, this does mean that there is a little more flexibility and less congestion when viewing the wildlife. We were often viewing animals up close, without another truck in sight and there is a fond camaraderie amongst the drivers, game keepers and local farmers.

Daniel - our more than capable and knowledgeable driver & guide from Karen Blixen Camp

Daniel - our more than capable and knowledgeable driver & guide from Karen Blixen Camp

The highlights included multiple lion families all with cubs, herds of elephants washing in the river, cheetah hunting and a night drive where we saw a hyena take a baby antelope. Every game drive was different and Daniel ensured we were always surprised, even providing a surprise picnic breakfast one morning complete with chefs and white table cloths. On our last day we ventured into the Mara National Park, which is about a 2 hour bumpy ride away from the lodge. The vastness of the plains and scale of the herds is amazing. It was early in the migration season and the wildebeest were grouping, although we didn’t see a actual river crossing (some had taken place the day before) it was interesting to see the points of the river where this happens and view the waiting crocodiles.

Breakfast on the plains in Masai Mara, Kenya.

Breakfast on the plains in Masai Mara, Kenya.

After 3 nights at the lodge we returned by small plane back to Nairobi for a quick overnight before we embarked on the train journey across to Mombasa. The new fast train line between Nairobi and Mombasa has reduced the journey to 6 hours, stopping at local stations on the way and crossing the Kenyan National Park. You can view elephants and zebra from the train window and arrive at the new, modern Mombasa rail station. It was then a short taxi ride to the Serena Beach Resort hotel on the northern coast. This lovely resort provided some relaxing beach time before returning home.

The pool at the Serena Beach Resort & Spa, Kenyan coast

The pool at the Serena Beach Resort & Spa, Kenyan coast

The grounds are beautiful with palm trees, white sand beach and turtle sanctuary, if you are lucky you may just catch a baby hatching. We played tennis under an audience of monkeys and relaxed poolside under the frangipani trees. Snorkelling, diving and windsurfing are all on offer. It was then a short flight from Mombasa back to Nairobi and onto London.

Two male cheetahs before a chase.

Two male cheetahs before a chase.

Kenya is magical, and viewing the animals in their natural habitat is breathtaking. I can see why visitors return again and again, each holiday would be different according to the seasons and movements of the wildlife. Travel Matters researched and booked everything down to the last detail, even guiding us through the visa process, it made for a wonderfully relaxing holiday.  Kenyans are rightly proud of their country and delighted to share all it has to offer, it was a privilege to spend a week in this wonderful country.

Safari drive in the Masai Mara.

Safari drive in the Masai Mara.

This guest blog post is by Katrina Clarkson who travelled to Kenya in June 2019 with Travel Matters. She was hosted by Karen Blixen Camp and Serena Hotels during her visit.

Eat, Pray, Sunbathe

This year I decided to celebrate the new Wizz Air route Luton to Eilat by booking my holiday to Israel and Jordan. Afterall visiting Jerusalem – the heart of the ancient world and a sacred city of three religions – has always been on my bucket list. Israel offers so much more than religious sites but the thought of walking on the ground that once was trodden on by Jesus Christ is simply mind-blowing. Also I have always found admirable how the Jews were able to preserve their language and culture without their own territory for many centuries.

Although Israel is a small country -  you can cross it from top to bottom in 5 hours – there is so much to see and experience, it is a real melting pot of traditions and cultures. Its quite interesting to see how much cities within one country can differ. Take Tel Aviv for example – a young, modern, cosmopolitan city, with a fantastic nightlife and dining scene, with fashionable young crowd wearing short skirts. And yet only an hour away there is Jerusalem, where behaviour and clothing are as conservative and orthodox as could be. Come Friday/Saturday, the city comes to a standstill with most shops/restaurants shut due to Shabbat. Even roads get car free.

The Wailing Wall, Jerusalem

The Wailing Wall, Jerusalem

The Old City covers an area of only one square kilometer, yet the density of the shrines of different religions, attractions, monuments of architecture surpasses all expectations. Here are the Temple Mount and the Wailing Wall - for the Jews, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and Via Dolorosa (Path of Sorrow) - the road Jesus Christ walked before his crucifixion - for Christians, the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque - for Muslims. But this is not an open-air museum  - here ordinary people live ordinary lives.

The Wailing Wall, Jerusalem

The Wailing Wall, Jerusalem

Tel Aviv is a brilliant city break destination. It was quite interesting to learn that the city is very young and has been originated only in the 50s. It attracts visitors by its wide Mediterranean beaches, impressive dining scene and sunny weather almost all year round. I particularly liked cool little restaurants in the old port of Jaffa. In general I was really impressed with the local cuisine and its generous use of fragrant herbs and spices. Even street food was really delicious and fresh – homemade humus, falafel wraps, kebabs – all washed down with freshly squeezed pomegranate juice or local wine.

Maryna in Tel Aviv

Maryna in Tel Aviv

For those with health issues The Dead See might be the answer with its balmy medicinal air and water so thick that it appears oily. To those of you who want to visit I would recommend to go pronto – the water levels recede every year so in the near future we might lose this miracle of nature.

The Dead Sea

The Dead Sea

Eilat is a resort town on the opposite side of Israel, squeezed between Egypt and Jordan and thus located on the shores of the Red Sea. I found it to be a good winter sun destination, I travelled in the end of February yet the water temperature was quite swimmable and we managed to top up our tan levels nicely. Eilat may look all about huge hotels and concrete but its underwater world is rich and colourful and is diver’s paradise.  

From Eilat we made our way across the border to Jordan.

Our accommodation in the Wadi Rum desert, Jordan

Our accommodation in the Wadi Rum desert, Jordan

Our first destination was Wadi Rum desert known for its fantastical Martian sceneries. Location really is out of this world, no wonder many Mars based movies were shot here, including the Martian with Matt Damon. We spent our night in a desert camp, in a dome overlooking the desert and the starry sky. Unfortunately we were not able to go on a hot air balloon trip as planned due to a poor weather, but a jeep safari was a good alternative.

Wadi Rum, Jordan

Wadi Rum, Jordan

Petra was our next stop. I think it is diffucult to find a person who hasn’t heard of this UNESCO heritage site. For me this was a classic case when I expected less but was completely blown away. First of all, the scale of it just bewilders. It is the whole lost city, not just the famous Treasury appearing on all photos. In fact the hike from the entrance to the farthest point, the Monastery is about 5 km, no wonder many travellers go for a two or even three day pass. The scenery around Petra doesn’t disappoint either, in fact some parts of it were really en par with the Panorama route in South Africa. A fantastic mixture of orange and green, with occasional bell sounds from grazing goats.  

All in all it was a fantastic holiday saturated with sights, natuare and delicious food, I honestly cant recommend highly enough.

Maryna travelled to Israel and Jordan in February 2019 Please contact us if you would like us to arrange a bespoke holiday for you to Israel or Jordan.

Luboff's trip to China
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What an amazing trip full of memorable experiences and cultural contradictions.

Another triumph from Karen and her excellent colleagues at Travel Matters and the incredible logistical magic of Wendy Wu and their wonderful local guides. For over three weeks in April/May 2019 the Luboffs travelled across the vast and populated country that is China, with its 1.4bn people, and ended with a few days exploring the sights and buzz of Hong Kong.

We flew into Shanghai, a modern metropolis which is just getting bigger and bigger.

To get a good feel for the city visit the Urban Planning Exhibition hall which has a magnificent model of the entire city - planned out to 2030. We took an evening cruise on the Huangpu River which shows you very clearly – this time in real life - the classic architecture of the Bund facing the almost Blade Runner futuristic buildings of Pudong. So many buildings alight with flashing images – the waterfront panoramic light show financed (substantially) by the government.

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Do not miss a trip to the Shanghai Museum – one of the best I have seen in the world in terms of layout, explanation and quality of exhibits. The Buddha statues, the porcelain, the calligraphy are all amazing. You could spend quite a few hours there!

Then on to the Yu Gardens – a tranquil haven in the middle of the busy city. Built by one man for his family as a retreat he had a fascination with a particular type of stone he nicknamed exquisite jade. Plenty of good luck dragons – they do not have wings but a magic ball in their mouth enabling them to fly.

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All of our travel was going to be by train – the very fast, very clean, very comfortable and always on time bullet trains. Make sure you go for the soft seats option (they call it first class) but do not bother with the free snack boxes handed out! The Red Cap porters are great – so friendly and helpful and they take you to and collect you from your seats ensuring your luggage is correctly stowed.

So onto Beijing – this has a very different feel to it – the nation’s capital for 600 years containing a multitude of ancient monuments, buildings and treasures to explore.

The Summer Palace is a beautiful royal park crammed full with many buildings where Emperors resided and the Dragon Lady held court. The Long Corridor is certainly long, the lake is shown off by its colourful dragon boats. A relaxing promenade.

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Your first sight of the Great Wall confirms what an incredible engineering feat it was in its construction. We were lucky that we almost had the Wall to ourselves – but it can be very crowded so choosing the right time to visit is very important.

It snakes up the hilly landscape as if to say try and breach me if you dare!

You can reach the top of the Wall at Mutianyu by cable car and then toboggan down the spiral slideway (good fun)!

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You should not miss a visit to Tiananmen Square although it is not nearly as impressive as Red Square in Moscow – even though apparently it can accommodate 1million people! Apart from the portrait of Mao it really is just a big open space – but of course you cannot help but project onto it the dramatic visual picture and memory of the student standing in front of a tank in June 1989. From there you enter the Forbidden City consisting of an amazing 800 buildings and 10,000 rooms – plenty of gold, lions and secret entrances for the concubines who were escorted to the Emperor’s rooms each evening by the resident eunuchs!

Do not be tempted by a so-called cyclo-rickshaw ride through the Hutongs – it really is very disappointing – drab buildings, little activity, no atmosphere! The Temple of Heaven is a beautiful example of Ming architecture – where the Emperors went to worship once a year for good harvests and to atone for the sins of their people.

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Do not leave Beijing without sampling the Peking Duck – we went to the Dadong restaurant, you will not be disappointed. Another train journey this time to Xi’an (“See – An”) to see the famous Army of Terracotta Warriors protecting the tomb of the First Emperor over 2,000 years ago.

An awesome sight, a truly incredible restoration and conservation project, a real Wonder of the World. Just three pits opened up to-date and perhaps another 400 – 500 still to be explored in due course. Will they ever breach the site of the Emperor’s tomb itself to see what is there? Can they protect the finds, are the rivers of mercury real? Almost no figures have been found complete due to collapsing wooden beams used to construct the so-called protective ceilings over them – the putting together of the jigsaws was initially a completely manual process but is now helped by computer technology.

Army of Terracotta Warriors .jpg

We had arranged to visit and spend the night at the Baoguo Temple up on Mount Emei (“Er-May”). Over 600 years old it is the only temple in China to have its own seven Buddhas – most have the classic three Buddha combo – representing the past, present and the smiling future Buddha. You quite rightly cannot take photos of the Budhhas. This was a really special experience – eating the same vegetarian food as the monks (basically rice and greens), getting up at 5.00am to see the monks at their morning session, breakfast of more rice and pickled vegetables and then a private meditation session with one of the (very intense) young(er) monks. To be highly recommended and one of the real highlights of our trip.

After this we then visited the Wannian Temple – a cable car ride followed by a trek up the mountain to 1,000m in rather treacherous wet conditions and having to watch out for the rather scary and confrontational Tibetan macaque monkeys who know no fear when they are after food and drink off the tourists! Beware and look after your camera!

Next we took a longer bus and cable car trip right to the top of Mount Emei to see the Golden Summit (at 3,000m) and the 10 headed Buddhas stature in solid gold (re-gilded every 5 years). It sits on top of four elephants and is surprisingly (to us) very new as it was only built in 2006. Indeed they are currently building new temples up there – rather bizarre! You might have thought they would have enough by now! The day we went the whole mountain was covered in mist – very magical and mystical if not so good for photos. If you are very lazy you can be taken up and down by a two man sort of rickshaw stretcher contraption  - looks rather scary and uncomfortable!  Buddhists climb all the way to the top stopping at each step to kneel down and blessing the ground – amazing if your knees are up to it of course. A transfer to Leshan where we climbed up the Lingyun mountain to see the Grand Buddha – an incredible statue carved into the river cliff, standing 71 metres tall, completed in 803 AD after 90 years work – the vision of one monk who was not able to actually see the work being carried out. It is worth not only getting close up to it but also taking an evening boat ride to see it lit up at night – be patient it is worth the wait when you get close.

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Then onto Chengdu and the Panda Reserve which houses about 60 pandas (including some very rare and intriguing much smaller red pandas). Very well laid out most of the pandas are by themselves but if they are young they will still be with their mother. 

They are incredibly cute and adorable to watch – they eat vast amounts of bamboo, then rest and repeat this process a number of times each day. They clearly dream of bamboo! The panda below looks to me like he is just chilling out wearing a pair of noise reducing headphones!

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A short train journey then takes us to Chongqing to embark on our Yangtze River cruise. The Yangtze River (the “Long River”) is the third longest river in the world after the Nile and the Amazon. We were also amazed to hear that the Chongquing municipality – the size of Austria - has a population of 31million people, the largest municipality in China. We had never heard of it. The city itself is unfortunately a very drab concrete jungle. They call it a cruise but really it is just a glorified boat trip which only becomes exiting and interesting when you eventually go through the Three Gorges – or at least 2 ½ of them as you cannot now go all the way to Shanghai due the Three Gorges Dam – the largest/biggest Dam in the world which took over 19 years to complete and raised the water level by 60ms.

The scenery is indeed breath taking, vertical cliffs rising dramatically from the water.

We did not take advantage of some of the excursions and reports back confirmed that this was a good decision – Fengdu’s Ghost City appears to have been built almost yesterday! The Romance of the Three Kingdoms Show did however get good reviews.    Make sure you also take the smaller boat trip option for a trip down one of the smaller tributaries (Goddess Stream) as you can get close to the rock face and fully appreciate the gorge-enous of it all.

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After disembarking we then traveled to Guilin via Wuchan and transferred to Yangshuo to our mountain retreat hotel. Located on the Li River the landscape is dominated by the limestone Karst peaks everywhere – very reminsicent of Hulong Bay in Vietnam. A beautiful location and so relaxing to just watch the bamboo rafts drift past whilst we enjoyed our breakfast.

We went to see an amazing show – “Impressions Liu Sanje” - based on the shore of the Li River and taking place out on the water. 2,000 people watching a cast of 600 act out a variety of local cultural stories from the past with dramatic light effects. Worth going to see.   

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From Yangshou back to Guilin and then onto Shenzhen and Luhou port for the onward train to Hong Kong for a few days sightseeing and relaxation – staying in the very lovely 5-star Langham Hotel.

What an amazing trip more than living up to our expectations. We were looked after so well by our four main guides who were charming and bright, very knowledgeable and a delight to be with. We felt very safe, very educated and informed and they certainly knew all the short cuts to keep us out of the crowds. 

The highlights were spectacular: - the stay in the Buddhist Temple, the Warriors and the Wall, the Grand Buddha, the splendour of both the Three Gorges and the Karst scenery. The Giant Pandas were also a delight.

Mark Luboff travelled to China in April. Ask us for more details or drop us a line for more information.

Charleston – a Southern Belle

Charleston is home to rich history, well preserved architecture and one of the most exciting food scenes in the US. Church steeples not skyscrapers dot the skyline, the streets are cobbled and the buildings pastel coloured. The city oozes old world charm and is now much more accessible with the launch in April of a new direct British Airways flight. Petra was on one of the first flights out of Heathrow – here are a few of her recommendations of what to do and where to stay in and around this Southern Belle.

Experience Charleston’s rich history on a horse and carriage tour or sail aboard a three mast schooner.

Experience Charleston’s rich history on a horse and carriage tour or sail aboard a three mast schooner.

Charleston exists as one of North America’s most architecturally significant destinations. The classic way of seeing the confection coloured homes of Rainbow Row and hearing a little more of the city’s history is in a horse and carriage tour. Palmetto Carriage Works is the oldest carriage tour company in Charleston using mule or horse-drawn carriages and operates out of the Big Red Barn – it also has an excellent record of animal care. If you’re visiting in the summer and want to escape the crowded streets and sweltering heat of downtown Charleston, then why not take to the water for an exhilarating daily sail or romantic sunset cruise on board The Schooner Pride, an 84′ tall ship, modelled after the 18th century coastal trading schooners that once dotted the harbour. On the peaceful 2 hour sailing tour, there’s also a chance to spot dolphins and pelicans.

Stay in Charleston’s latest historic hotel.

Stay in Charleston’s latest historic hotel.

Hotel Bennett, the South’s grandest new hotel, overlooks the iconic and historic Marion Square in Downtown Charleston carefully combining European architectural inspiration with classic Southern furnishings and details throughout. The 9 storey hotel features 179 stylish guest rooms and two signature restaurants, Gabrielle Charleston with an outdoor dining terrace and the French-style La Patisserie. However, no surprises what got the biggest thumbs up was the 35 foot-long rooftop swimming pool with sweeping views of Charleston’s cityscape and the enormous freestanding baths which you could also possibly swim in!

Visit a plantation house like Mcleod Plantation.

Visit a plantation house like Mcleod Plantation.

Maganolia Plantation is one of the most visited plantations in South Carolina but we’d also suggest a visit to Middleton Place, a national historic landmark and home to the oldest landscaped gardens in America. Rare camellias bloom in the winter, while vibrant azaleas blanket the hillside in the spring. If you’re looking for the true Spanish moss, “Gone with the Wind” style plantation house, check out Mcleod Plantation, established in 1851 and also an important Gullah/Geechee heritage site.

Try some Lowcountry fair.

Try some Lowcountry fair.

If you want to really experience the heart and soul of Charleston, taste the local cuisine. Comprised of heirloom recipes proudly passed from one generation to the next, Lowcountry cuisine has evolved over the past 300 years with Petra’s top restaurant recommendation being The Charleston Grill. Diners travel far and wide for the Grill’s signature crab cakes, a long-standing fixture on the award-winning menu, this dish features a generously packed cake of fresh crab meat and a winning blend of herbs and spices. You should also sample a Low Country Boil, the south-eastern coast’s equivalent to a New England clambake – a large pot with shrimp or crab, along with a spicy sausage, corn, potatoes and plenty of seasoning. If you’re planning a visit later on this summer, Charleston Restaurant Week takes place between September 4 – 15, 2019 and is one of the most highly anticipated culinary events in the Charleston area.

Enjoy the beauty of Beaufort.

Enjoy the beauty of Beaufort.

Beaufort is the second oldest city in the state of South Carolina, a history buff’s dream and a romantic sanctuary. Just 70 miles south of Charleston, Beaufort was the backdrop to many iconic Hollywood movies including The Big Chill, The Great Santini and Forest Gump. The Beaufort Inn, a gorgeous boutique hotel in the heart of historic downtown, Beaufort would be our choice of where to stay, either in the historic mansion itself or in one of the lovingly restored cottages.

Relax on Hilton Head’s beaches or tee off on a golf course.

Relax on Hilton Head’s beaches or tee off on a golf course.

Located at the southernmost tip of South Carolina, Hilton Head Island is your quintessential holiday destination where you can enjoy over 12 miles of some of the best beaches in the US, kayak in the tidal waters of the coast, go fishing in the Atlantic or get up close and personal with a bottle-nose dolphin.  However, most people come to Hilton Head for the world-class golf experience and it doesn’t disappoint.  Each of the 24 golf courses has its own set of unique characteristics and challenges to keep even the most skilled player motivated. 

Charleston was named No.1 city in the US by the readers of Travel + Leisure and we agree, there’s much to love about the city. This is just a taster of what Charleston and the region has to offer and with plans underway to mark Charleston’s 350th Anniversary next year, there is a lot to look forward to.

To find out more about Charleston visit https://www.charlestoncvb.com/

We would be happy to arrange a visit to Charleston and South Carolina through our partner North American Travel Service – give us a call. 

Iceland - land of glaciers, waterfalls & geysers

If you are a lover of nature and adventure then there are few places in this world that could compete with Iceland. Maryna was very fortunate to visit this beautiful country courtesy of Exsus. The beauty of Iceland is such that it was a location for many films and TV shows, the most recognisable of which is probably the Game of Thrones.

Waterfall in Iceland

Waterfall in Iceland

Although Iceland has been receiving a lot of tourism in the past few years, I was completely charmed by its unspoilt nature and, having travelled from London, fresh and clean air.

Icelanders are very protective of the environment and their dedication to recycling, reducing the consumption of plastic and conservation was very close to my heart. Iceland is not a cheap country but everything that you get there, be it locally produced clothing or food, is of the highest possible quality. In fact, foodie as I am, I was quite surprised to discover that food in Iceland was absolutely delicious. It was not only the exotic produce, like Minke Wale, wild goose and rain deer but their pairings with interesting flavours like jam and peanut butter that brought it to a whole new level. Iceland caters very well for vegans and vegetarians also, so not a chance to go hungry, as they grow many vegetables locally in green houses.

Their minimalistic approach to accommodation was right up my street also. You won’t find monstrous hotel complexes in Iceland, the hotels tend to have 60-70 rooms on the average and blend seamlessly into the landscape. Expect a lot natural materials, like wood and lava stone, very comfortable but with no bells and whistles - it is all about the view! Most hotels where I stayed had floor to ceiling panoramic windows with the views of the surroundings.

From some windows you could even enjoy the northern nights! Talking about Aurora borealis, the best time to see them if from September until the end of March, although I travelled in April, I was very lucky to see them too.

Iceland has two distinct seasons, summer and winter. Summer, from April to September, is the time for road tripping, hiking, cycling and whale watching. It is also a good time to see colonies of nesting puffins that come to Iceland in the summer. Winter is all about winter activities and northern lights, although some roads could be closed.

From my experience beginning of April is a good compromise between the two, you may already have a chance to spot wales and dolphins, weather permitting and if you are lucky, see the northern lights, like we did, although days do get increasingly longer and it is not typical to spot them past March.

April is also a good time to see two sides of Iceland, the white snowy Reykjavik and the Highlands as well as mossy green area around Vik.

Only three hours away, Reykjavik is a perfect getaway for an adventure weekend. The city itself is quite attractive with its harbour and numerous cool restaurants and bars, but there is also a possibility to jump on a whale/puffing watching boat departing several times per day or take a helicopter tour and observe Iceland’s unparalleled beauty from above.

There are several tours to chose from ranging from one hour to half a day, or even a full day private tour. The last but not the least is of course the Blue Lagoon, ideally located half way between the airport and the city and thus a perfect stop over en route to/from the flight. Or if you have 3-4 day, why not complete the Golden Circle, covering 300km loop from Reykjavik into central Iceland and back? The Golden Circle is a popular tourist route with three primary stops: the national park, Thingvellir, the Gullfoss waterfall and the geothermally active valley, Haukadalur.

If you want to avoid crowds at the stunning Gullfoss waterfall we can highly recommend taking the secret way to it with a fun and exhilarating ATV experience at Einholt farm.

If you have more time, the breath-taking landscapes of Southern Iceland and the south coast are simply incredible and an unmissable part of Iceland holiday.

You will have a chance to visit the village of Vik, Iceland’s most southern village and an ideal base for visiting the many natural gems of the area. Just a short drive away are the impressive Skogafoss and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls, the famous Reynisfjara beach and the Reynisdrangar Pillars, simply known as the Black Beach.

I particularly enjoyed my visit to the glacial lagoon of Jokulsarlon, whose deep blue waters are dotted with icebergs and are home to hundreds of seals in winter. Icebergs then travel into the ocean dotting the beach with crystal-like pieces of ice in the process. It doesn’t come as a surprise that the beach is called Diamond beach.Another memorable experience was Falljokull glacier track and particularly walking in a deep crevass. It was fascinating to learn about the way glaciers form from our knowledgeable guide.

All in all, I can honestly say this was one of the most memorable trips I have ever taken and will gladly discuss it if anyone is planning a trip to the country. Maryna travelled in April 2019 to Iceland

Kerala with Karen

Cochin airport, our airport of arrival in Kerala, is the first airport in the world to be run on solar energy. It has more than 46,000 solar panels which take the bright sunlight and converts it into energy. The airport is extremely clean, spacious and with this accolade to shout about – we were already impressed by the “God’s Own Country” strap line and care that the people of Kerala have towards this part of India. We had read up about Kerala’s attitude to responsible tourism and our first encounter on arrival got some brownie points.

Kerala is one of the southern states in India and boasts over 600kms of coastline, the Arabian Sea, as well as a beautiful interior of countryside, banana and rubber plantations, mountains, waterfalls and the backwaters – meandering canals that take you past fields, coconut groves, small village hamlets and villages.

First stop for us was Cochin (Kochi)– we got around on tuk tuks as well as on foot and used the public ferry to cross from Willingdon Island to Fort Cochin. Walking around Jew Town, we past independent shops selling handicrafts, silks, spices, artefacts and perfumes. The walk was colourful, relaxed and interesting – there was no hassle from shop keepers or bartering.

Look out for the Chinese fishing nets on the beachfront, they are unique to Cochin. These nets are found only in Cochin, outside China! We checked out St. Francis Church as it is the oldest church built by Europeans in India. Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese trader who reached India from Europe by sea, fell ill and died in Cochin. His burial spot is within the church.

The second part of our Kerala adventure was 24 hours on the backwaters. We headed to Allepey and embarked on a houseboat to cruise this water network. There is over 900kms of waterways including five large lakes linked by canals, fed by no less than 38 rivers. They extend half the length of Kerala state. The kettuvallams (houseboats) were traditionally used as grain barges, to transport the rice harvested in the fertile fields alongside the backwaters.

Marari Beach Resort – is one of the CGH properties. It is a small slice of heaven on earth and we were blessed to be based here for several days. CGHEarth Hotels have a model which should be an example to any business. Their company ethos and response to nature and people are a force for good and are very much reflected in everything they offer - from their care to the environment in architecture style and locations of their properties to the staff, services and activities you can experience. A winning formula.

The last part of our family adventure in Kerala was a stay at Dewalokam. Run by the most hospitable of hosts, Jose and Sinta. Dewalokam is a working farm and homestay and offers peaceful surroundings by the riverside. You are treated to home grown produce and freshly cooked traditional Keralan food. A guided walk around the farm will teach you all about the various spices that grown here like pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, ginger and turmeric.

Dewalokam is a working farm, run on organic and eco principles. The water is heated with solar power, vegetables grown with home-made compost, chickens and goats fed on vegetable waste and methane from the cows manure is recovered to provide gas for cooking.

We spent a relaxing afternoon down by the river, jumping off the rope swing into the water and paddling in the inflatable boat whilst glimpsing the azure flash of kingfishers' wings as well as spotting egrets, herons, white ibis and hornbills.

We had to leave a little earlier than planned from this retreat – there had been violent protests around Kerala after two women made history by entering the prominent Sabarimala temple. It had been closed to women before. Our hosts advised us not to travel on the road between 6am and 6pm for fear of being caught in the protests.I must add that this did not mar our experiences and impressions of Kerala one bit. Kerala is a world away from the somewhat chaotic areas of India's other states. Kerala is serenely beautiful, peaceful, mystical and a balm to the soul. Its culture, literature and development have always made India proud and with a literacy rate of 93.91 among its own, scholars believe that the education system in Kerala has already achieved the momentum required to lead the entire country towards positive development. We welcome and celebrate that fact and want to encourage you to visit Kerala for yourself.

Karen travelled with her family to Kerala in December 2018. Ask her for details or drop us a line for more information.

Six highlights of Martinque
 

Martinique, locally named Madinina - The Isle of Flowers, is enormously popular with the French, not surprising considering it's history and the number of direct flights from Paris. However, with croissants and palm trees, all perched near a live volcano, Martinique is the definition of a refined French-Caribbean island and is an excellent base from which to start a sailing trip around St Vincent and the Grenadines as I did last month with Dream Yacht Charter  It's worth tagging on an extra couple of days before or after your trip to explore the island. Here are a few of my highlights.

Beaches

The island is 80 km by 39 km and no point is more than 12 km from the sea. The number one reason that most people visit the Caribbean is for it's beaches and Martinique has some pretty fine ones. Sainte-Anne, the area at the southern tip of the island has many headlands and coves with some beautiful white sand beaches. Being one of the major tourist spots of the island, Sainte Anne is also known for promoting sustainable development, so brownie points there #20yearstravelmatters. Le Diamant, in the south has a lovely 4 km beach and the tourist hub of Les Trois-Islets also has a handful of  great beaches. My personal favourite however was the beach at Anse d'Arlet Bourg, a traditional fishing village whose 18th century Roman Catholic church doors open almost immediately on to the beach. It's a lovely setting and as I was there on a Sunday and am catholic, particularly special to celebrate mass followed immediately by a dip in the sea.

Markets

Markets are part and parcel of life in Martinique. Forget your five a day, you can choose from dozens of different kinds of fruit and veg, some familiar and others less so. After days at sea it was fun to observe and rub shoulders with the local population as well as immersing myself in the exotic scents, tastes and colours. I particularly loved the passion fruits the size of grapefruits and a fruit, bizarrely not nameless but called anon and part of the custard apple family with the flavour of banana, vanilla, pineapple and mango all in one. Meanwhile, on every menu fish is king, the village of St Luce walking distance from my hotel along the shoreline was an excellent place for a very affordable grilled lobster eaten al fresco in a beach shack.

Hotel

Martinique is not short of accommodation ranging from luxury hotels to apartments, Caribbean inns, resorts, villas and country guesthouses.  I stayed at Residence Pierre & Vacances, a brand I know from mostly ski resorts in France.The Pierre & Vacances Holiday Village Sainte-Luce takes its name from the attractive fishing village nearby. Bordered by white sandy beaches, it extends down to the sea with a vast tropical garden and even bigger pool.  The latter particularly got the big thumbs up from me, especially at night, lit up with multi colours changing from blue, to red to green (initially another case of had I been consuming too much rum!). The guests were mostly French (so a chic and stylish bunch around the pool, restaurants and bars) and lets be honest here, the French are not going to settle for poor quality food lacking in flavour and so the latter was impressive for what is essentially a 3 star property. Set along the central pathway, the air-conditioned apartments are grouped into red-roofed buildings, typical of the tropics and all in all it was perfect base to relax initially after my flight and from which to explore the island.

Habitation Clement

"All roads lead to ... rum" and as I drank vast quantities of it on my cruise around the Grenadines, I opted for a tour of a rum distillery to discover more about the pirates tipple of choice.  Wherever you are on Martinique, a rum distillery is never far away.The rum-making season is February to June, when you'll be able to see the distilleries operating. Today nine distilleries in Martinique welcome visitors for a sampling of their product. I chose The Clement Estate, a huge 160 hectare estate, located in the town of Le Francois. There's a century-old rum house, a contemporary art museum, gardens to wander around, an 18th century creole plantation house complete with antique furniture and of course plenty of  rum to sample.

La Savane des Esclaves

La Savane des Esclaves opened in 2004 is a traditional creole village recreated by Gilbert Larose, a Martinican passionate about his island and its history. He created the site as a duty to never forget the history of slavery and the knowledge and traditions of the inhabitants of the countryside after its abolition. There are a total of 13 recreated huts and attractions from a field slaves' huts on a plantation to a museum and exhibitions. It's very well done with excellent written descriptions. You come away with a better understanding of the horrors of the slave trade and I'd recommend combining a visit here with a stop at Anse Cafard Slave memorial, a cluster of stone statues overlooking the sea commemorating the fate of dozens of slaves who lost their lives in a shipwreck of the coast.

Carnival

Like many Caribbean islands, Carnival is a popular tradition in Martinique. Organised festivities start on the Sunday following Epiphany and reach their peak during the days around Fat Tuesday (Pancake Day) and climax the Wednesday night. This year the five days of popular revelry will take place from March 2nd - 6th. I was lucky enough to be in Fort de France (the capital) on Sunday 20th January to catch one of the pre Carnival parades and what a spectacle of colour, music, drumming, noise, dancing, jubilant crowds and some pretty wacky home-made costumes. If this was just a warm up, the actual main festivities are bound to be something special with a different parade on each day: on Monday a burlesque wedding, on Fat Tuesday red devils and on Ash Wednesday she-devils, rambunctious mourners in black and white outfits. Getting a tiny taste of Carnival was for me the undoubted highlight of my visit to Martinique.

I also loved the quirky historical sites, who knew it was the birthplace of Napoleon's empress Josephine and that it's part of the EU, so no roaming charges on your phone - all in all Martinique was a perfect combination of Caribbean beauty and European flair.

To find out more about Martinique

Written by Petra Shepherd.

 
Madeira - a huge botanical garden

Madeira resembles a huge botanical garden, for a nature lover like myself it is a constant feast to the eyes, ears and the nose. Even in winter many flowers stay in bloom and the island retains its lush vegetation.

With its mountainous landscape and abundant greenery Madeira somewhat reminded me of St. Lucia in the Caribbean. Being a subtropical island, Madeira once was all covered by the indigenous rainforest, but the original settlers set fire to some parts of the island to clear the land for farming, giving the island its name in the process. Did you know that Madeira meant "wood" in Portuguese?

I travelled in November and we were blessed with a lovely weather, although we did have two days of rain, the spells were short-lived and gave way to bright sunshine. The island is called the land of the eternal spring, as even in winter the temperatures always stay in mid-teens. Summers are pleasantly warm and rarely get scorchingly hot.

The weather of course can vary depending on the altitude. Thus, when we travelled to Pico do Areeiro we were greeted by chilly rain and fog. Not surprising, considering that at 1,818 m high, it is the Island's third highest peak.

It is peculiar that in a land where butterflies fly around even in winter, almost every year you can encounter snow at the higher peaks of Madeira. No wonder locals say that Madeira Island is the only place where you can have 4 seasons in a day!

Being a volcanic island Madeira, has several peaks and is an ideal destination for hikers and cyclists. I highly recommend hiring a car and going around, otherwise you are bound to miss out on the most amazing sceneries and in Madeira, every stop presents a photo opportunity.

Madeira isn’t celebrated for its beaches and its sister island Porto Santo is much more suited for the task. Being a ferry ride (or a short flight) away it combines beautifully with Madeira.

Alternatively, how fun is it swimming in a natural pool like the one in Porto Moniz in Madeira?

But Madeira is not all about nature, it is also paradise for seafood lovers and there is no better place to sample it than in one of Madeira’s fishing villages.

Maryna has seen two very different properties whilst in Madeira. The first one was a very modern, edgy SPA hotel located in a picturesque location in Calheta. She loved spacious rooms with balconies overlooking the mountains and the ocean, as well as their gorgeous roof top infinity pool.

The second property was the iconic Belmond Reid’s Palace, very different in style, considering it was the first five-star hotel on the island and still manages to retain its period charm. Afternoon tea at Belmond Reid’s Palace is considered to be one of the must-dos while visiting the island. It can also be combined with a tour of the hotel's famous gardens. Staying at the hotel is even better, of course!

Reid’s Palace has hosted many a distinguished guest over the years, one of them was Winston Churchill who wanted to escape somewhere ‘warm, bath-able, comfortable and flowery’ where he could paint and work on his memoirs. That fits the description of Madeira perfectly!

Next time you want to go somewhere “flowery”, you know where it is! And as always, we are here to help.

Maryna travelled to the island with her husband in November 2018.

Slovenia - #IfeelsLOVEnia

Ever since Ljubljana held the title of European Green Capital in 2016, I’ve had great interest to visit. Slovenia may be a small European country – but it packs a punch.

It connects the Alps, the Mediterranean and the Pannonian Plain and being a country, which has the word Love in its name, you’ll find it difficult not to fall in love with its scenic beauty. Mountains, forests, waterfalls, lakes – with over half of the country covered with forest, you’ll be truly inspired.

I can’t think of a better location for my first experience of Connections Adventure.

Connections is a global networking platform for individuals who specialise in high-end adventure travel. It draws together people from all over the world, setting up introductions to develop new business relationships in the most innovative way.

My base for the conference was the Hotel Intercontinental Ljubljana. Looked after perfectly by the gorgeous, Janette Skorc. The Intercontinental is the new kid on the block in the city. It’s Ljubljana’s tallest hotel and the location to the Old Town is very close by. I really enjoyed the views from the spa on the 18th floor – the foothills and the city can be seen from being seated in the sauna!

Each day was so varied and full of exciting treats. Instead of sitting desk bound to meet new potential suppliers and buyers, we were encouraged to undertake various activities together. The ethos being that a shared experience deepens relationships. I am converted.

After an introduction about the Connections Adventure formula and some group discussions, we heard an insightful talk from Caroline Bremner of Euromonitor International. “Will tourism be the new smoking?” We were encouraged to look ahead to future tourism challenges amidst climate chaos, restrictions, barriers, bans, personal quotas on travel to name a few topics

Lipica Stud Farm was where we headed for the afternoon. One of the oldest stud farms, operating since the 16th century, the Lipizzaner horses are world renowned. Such a special opportunity to understand more from a horse whisperer and a joy to see so many white horses on this estate.

Lake Bled – probably the icon of Slovenia tourism, doesn’t disappoint. Hire a bike to enjoy the 6km circumference of the lake, it’s a perfect way to enjoy the environs. If you want to be on the water, you could consider spending a day with some of the best athletes in rowing. I was fortunate to meet these two Olympic rowing heros – Luka Spik and Janez Klemenic. They tried to teach me the basic rowing skills.

Whilst at Lake Bled, the inspirational Natalia Cohen shared her story of perseverance, courage and sheer tenacity. Natalia was part of the first all-female team to row unsupported across the Pacific Ocean. Her skills lie in leadership, team dynamics, positive mindset and mindfulness – thank you Natalia for sharing your story. You can learn about her latest venture here Losing Sight of Shore.

Despite the terrific stormy weather we experienced whilst in Slovenia, we enjoyed some time in the ski resort of Krvavec. This resort is the closest European ski resort to any airport - just 20 minutes away. Imagine a cultural city break for the weekend with some time on the ski slopes too - then Ljubljana is your answer. Whilst in the resort of Kravavec, I discovered tubing – an exhilarating pastime of hauling yourself onto an inflatable ring and sliding down the mountain. Hilarious!

The hospitality throughout was authentic, rich and immersive. Dining was superb and I want to thank all the chefs and their teams for creating such delicious meals during my stay.

Micaela Giacobbe of Connections Adventure – your vision for networking in this manner is truly successful. The experience has been impactful and innovative. For me, it was well curated, executed and well organised. It has certainly fulfilled what it set out to do – create long lasting connections for suppliers and buyers alike. Thank you and your very capable team. Thanks too to the following people and organisations: Mattej Knific and Mattej Valencic from Luxury Slovenia DMC, Mladen Ljubisic from the Slovenia Tourist Board, Janette Skorc, Intercontinental Ljubljana.

Karen travelled to Slovenia in October with Connections Adventure. If interested to hear more about the country, contact her on 0208 675 7878 or email info@travelmatters.co.uk    

India - Maharajah style

India has always been considered a land of riches and abundance. No wonder it has been an apple of discord for so many nations for centuries. I had a privilege to experience India in what I can only describe as Maharajah style. In India they take luxury to a whole new level. The hotels, both newly built and converted palaces are just so opulent that they leave you speechless. Service was the best I have ever seen anywhere.We started our journey in Delhi, where I had a chance to stay in two completely different properties. The first one is a legend in its own right, The Imperial.

It is such a significant landmark, filled with historical artefacts and pieces of art, that staying there or indeed even visiting for a drink or a meal is a must. I should but mention their famous restaurant the Spice Route, deservedly one of the best restaurants in the world.

The second hotel that I really enjoyed is a newly renovated Oberoi New Delhi. The hotel has just reopened after almost two years and has a fresh and a modern look as opposed to the colonial Imperial. They also have something that no one else in Delhi can boast - a rooftop bar with incredible views and chilled ambiance. Fancy having a glass of champagne there?!

As a city, Delhi, is a curious mix of old and new. Even the two parts of the city - The Old Delhi and the New Delhi - differ so much in style and character that it’s like visiting two separate cities.

After Delhi we, of course, headed to Agra, located just under two hours away by train. Agra is home to the greatest monument ever created for love, the gorgeous Taj Mahal. If you do not want to rush back, why not overnight in Oberoi Amarvilas? This is the only hotel that offers a view of Taj Mahal. It really is very special!

Four hours later, and we are in Jaipur! The city is bustling and full colours and sounds. It had always been a rich city famous for its gems, palaces and eccentric maharajahs. In fact, I don’t think I have seen so many palaces withinn a square mile anywhere else in the world!

Speaking about attractions I can mention the magnificent Amber fort, The City Palace, the iconic Hawa Mahal as well as it’s bazaars. Rumour has it that the pink city itself is going to become a UNESCO heritage site soon.

When it comes to accommodation, you are just spoilt for choice. I really enjoyed my stay at Oberoi Rajvilas but was equally impressed by Taj Rambagh Palace. Both have an incredible atmosphere, especially in the evening. Both hotels offer you the experience of traditional Indian dancing at its best. Another two places that I have to mention due to their character and charm are Samode Haveli, if you are after a truly immersive experience right in the city centre and Sujan Rajmahal Palace, one of the oldest and most treasured palaces in the ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur.

After Jaipur we made our way to Udaipur, a city often referred to as Indian Venice. I could certainly see the resemblance! I loved the atmosphere of the city as well as beautiful views of the lake. I had a privilege of staying at the famous Taj Lake Palace. It is indeed a place to experience! Even going to the hotel by boat sets you in a certain mood of anticipation! All rooms are totally unique due to ancient architecture, after all the palace is over 400 years old!

If time allows and you need to recharge your batteries or wish to experience Indian countryside at its best RAAS Devigarhis the place to be.

It’s a stunning hill-top fort palace that has been fantastically restored into a luxurious, sophisticated and romantic retreat. I can see myself coming there to write my memoirs or some such thing, the pace is slow and the mountainous scenery is so beautiful and peaceful.

After Udaipur it was time to go back to Delhi and take an onward flight back to London. I can’t wait to go back and discover other parts of this magnificent country.

If you are interested to travel to India, give us a call on tel 0208 675 7878 or email info@travelmatters.co.uk.

Maryna travelled to India with Travel Matters in September 2018.

South Africa - one of the most spectacular countries in the world

There is no denying that South Africa is one of the most spectacular countries in the world. Distances are vast covering areas that not only differ in terrain, but also in climate and flora and fauna. And there is no better way to discover a country than on a road trip.

My husband and I have just returned from the most magical trip to the country having covered over 5,000 km. It was incredible to see how the country was slowly changing along the way from Cape Town to Johannesburg.

I’m always curious to see what countries look like outside the busy season. My conclusion is that South Africa in our summer months (their winter) is not only not lacking in anything but in many ways provides a superior experience.

The easiest answer is that rates are much more attractive and crowds are greatly reduced. The foliage is not as thick and allows for a better wildlife viewing. In their winter months the risk of malaria is significantly lower. In fact, I haven’t seen any mosquitoes at all! Winter is also the time when most snakes are hibernating. The last but not the least, the weather is very pleasant. During the day the temperatures in Kruger park area can go as high as 25-30 degrees, which is much preferred to 40 degrees that you would get in summer months.

Temperatures do drop as soon as the sun goes down but then you will be welcomed by a merry fireplace upon arrival from your game drive.

Since South Africa is such a big country, it is very difficult to cram all the information in so I decided to split my blog in two, writing about Eastern and Western capes separately.

We started our Eastern cape adventure with a stay at the Fugitive’s Drift Lodge. Traveling is extremely educational and some accommodation can be not only comfortable and gorgeous but also an experience in itself. One of them is definitely Fugitives' Drift Lodge and Guest House. Just wow! I wasn’t so impressed in a long time! It is THE place to stay if you want to learn more about the Anglo-Zulu War. I went on their Rorke’s Drift battle tour, the battle immortalised by the film Zulu. The talented guides will paint such a vivid picture of the events that it will leave you deeply moved. The accommodation varies from very comfortable and affordable to luxurious and all options have terraces with spectacular views. Guests are encouraged to explore the extensive grounds. It is very safe as they have no predators, but you are guaranteed to meet giraffes, zebras, kudus and impalas.

Our next stop was the kingdom of Swaziland or Eswatini as it is now known. I was really gutted that we only had one night to spend in this little country. Swazis are known for loving their king and why wouldn’t they? The country is extremely well run. As soon as you enter you see anti-corruption posters. The country is extremely clean, there are bins everywhere as well as signs urging people to keep the country clean. In addition, litter pickers clean the streets every morning. From what I have seen, Swaziland is a good producer of timber, but they do not just hack out all their forests without thinking about tomorrow. They plant special timber types and once one area gets cleared out they re-plant it with new young trees, so that they have a constant supply. The country itself is beautiful and people are just so helpful and smiley. The standard of living is good for Africa but if you go off the beaten track inland you will still find these charming traditional mud huts.

Swaziland is known for its safaris and culture, but not many people know that around Pig’s Peak you can also find ancient rock paintings. The Nsangwini Rock Shelter is the largest example of San art in the country and is said to provide the most comprehensive display in Swaziland.

4000 years ago, the San people used this Highveld area for spiritual rituals and for recording iconic moments in their lives through etchings on the ancient rocks. The paintings are remarkably clear and informative interpretations are given by members of the Nsangwini community, who manage and maintain the site.

The drive to the place is spectacular, mostly on orange soiled forest roads dotted with local houses.

The next day we made our way to the town of Graskop which serves as a gateway to the beautiful Panorama Route. It must have been one of our favourite places in South Africa. Allow at least two days to explore as the sites are numerous and the views are just to die for! The most notable stops are The God’s Window, Three Rondavels Viewpoint and Bourke’s Luck Potholes.

No trip to South Africa is complete without a safari and we managed to experience it two different ways, both with an experienced guide and a self-drive at the Kruger national park.

First, we spent two unforgettable nights at the Garonga Safari camp, situated in the Makalali Conservancy. The camp consists of the main camp with just six luxury tents as well as the Little Garonga offering three luxury suites, and that’s where we were very lucky to stay.

Safari drives always involve a fair share of luck and boy did we get lucky on our very first drive, where we witnessed a pride of lions devouring a giraffe with hyenas and vultures waiting for their turn nearby.

Or how about three rhinos grazing peacefully right in front of our jeep?

If you can’t afford to stay in a luxury lodge but are still keen to see wildlife, self-drive in Kruger is an excellent option. It is safe and easy, once you follow all the instructions. Or you can arrange a game-drive with a local guide at the reserve. Expect to see tons of zebras, kudus, impalas, elephants and giraffes. Wildebeests, rhinos, lions, buffalos and hippos are relatively easy to spot as well, but you may need to go several times. As always cheetahs and leopards are very elusive, but you are very likely to see them if you spend a few days there.

Our last stop before heading home was Johannesburg, also known as Joburg, Jozi and the City of Gold. The city that wasn’t supposed to be there if it were not for the discovery of gold, but now the second biggest city in Africa after Cairo. Impressive considering it is only over 120 years old. It is away from any source of water and is also relatively high at 1753 meters giving some people slight altitude sickness. These days the water to the city comes all the way from the mountains of Lesotho around 300 km away. Johannesburg is also home to the Cradle of Humankind.

We stayed at the Four Seasons the Westcliff. Having had a tour of the city, I don’t think you can be located in a better position. The area is safe, green and provides excellent views. The hotel is an oasis of calm and luxury in this hectic city. Having a glass of wine on the balcony and enjoying the views and the sun was such a bliss! As always, the service and the standard of accommodation was impeccable! Highly recommended.

Look out for the part two of my blog!

Maryna travelled to South Africa in June 2018. You can speak to her in the agency from Monday to Friday.